Just purchased 9/1/2019 by my son as his first car and our project car.
1993 Volvo 240 Automatic sedan Unknown mileage (Approx 150k). ODO stopped @ 90K.
Transmission model No: 03-70 1208.

Symptom: Car warms up for 5-7 minutes and then drive it, car is in D it revs to higher RPM and won’t engage 1-2.
I can engage 1-2 by shifting from D-2 and letting off gas at same time. Then car shifts fine for duration of drive. 2-3 and 3-4 shift smooth. All subsequent stops and shifts from 1-2 work. This inability to shift just occurs the first time with a ‘cold’ engine (even though I let it idle for awhile). After driving I can leave car off for a few hours and drive it without issue. In the morning or after sitting for like 7 hours the issue returns.

Fluid hits the MAX mark when HOT, so fluid is not low.

Have inspected the kickdown cable and it appears to function, I can pull it and it snaps back. I have never heard a ‘click’ though.
I drained the transmission oil pan and the fluid was the color of a dark port instead of a red wine.
I replaced just that amount from the pan. (2.5 qts)

I imagine doing a Gibbons method flush is in order to see if that will improve, worth it?

Will a pan drop and clean and filter change/clean help or just a waste of time?

Am I kidding myself and this will require the checkball change/ rebuild of the valve body?

Anything else to consider besides fluid, kickdown cable, or valve body?

Thanks for any tips.

I am back with what I think are some more detailed Repeatable test results:

1) Warm car idle in P and D for 4-5 minutes.
2) Drive in D slowly in 1st for another 1 minute.
3) Drive car up to 30-35 MPH with RPM's high in 1st but too scared to push it.(it may shift on its own but I am scared to try)
4) Repeat step 3 a few times and chicken out each time.
5) Going down a slight hill repeating step 3 and either let off gas quickly or change shifter from D to 2 and then 2nd gear will engage. The letting off gas quickly is a new discovery and I thought that may be a new clue?
6) Stop car cycle from P back to D, get car to around 20 MPH and let off gas and car will shift to 2nd smoothly(this smoothness is interesting) OR get car to around 25 MPH (higher RPM sound) and it will shift on its own but a little rough/hard/a jerk.
7) Can repeat Step 6 around 3-4 times and its consistent, After that the letting off gas or moving shifter is not required and car shifts smooth at around 20MPH.
8) Going from 2-3,3-4 are all decent shifts, a tiny bit rough,not delayed at first but again these smooth out.

FACTORS: HEAT and TIME

ACTIONS TAKEN:
Filter has been changed to synthetic, fluid flushed 2 times, pan dropped and cleaned 2X.
Throttle body cleaned.
Throttle cable / stop set correct.
TPS clicks on and off when moving throttle.
Kickdown appears to be set correct but not 100% sure, has 2mm gap and will click when at FT.
Used some Lucas tranny oil

Professional indy tranny shop says it has morning sickness and needs a rebuild but I am not that confident he really checked it out, when I asked for diagnostics he didnt have any.
I assumed he would have like pressure test numbers and such, and he wanted 2500 dollars for rebuild.

Based on all this information what is most likely the issue/resolution?

1) Valve body clean,rebuild.
2) clutches and/or bands are on way out...replace tranny time
3) may still just be the kickdown or throttle are not right.

Just looking for the next logical step.

Transmission issue fixed.
Found a local indy Volvo expert and confirmed diagnosis of failing transmission.
He replaced it with a used AW70.

Well?

I guess that ends the long thread without a conclusion of what was wrong.
I thought you were the man to tear open things for a project or did you keep it to do that?

It would be a good lesson to learn and nothing better to get one from something that you are not pressured to get back in service!

Just my thoughts about a missed opportunity of getting a hard knocks education without the lumps!
May there be no lumps in your stocking this week!
(:-)

Phil

I did not keep the transmission and unfortunately this thread ends like so many others I have found on this and other forums when researching this issue. (very annoying)
I am also disappointed that I may never know the actual WHY or WHAT was wrong.
Needed to get car going for practical reasons and just wasn't comfortable with my skills to attempt rebuilding a transmission. Perhaps with time I will get to that point.
I am really grateful for all the support and knowledge I found here and hope I didn't ostracize myself.

RedBrickDad,

If you can regain access to your 1993 transmission and remove the tailshaft housing, the fellow our Art Benstein mentions that is in need is Mike91. Maybe Mike91 can make use of it or at least have an option:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1670267/940/960/980/V90/S90/anyone_spare_1993_aw71_transmission_tailshaft_housing_bearing.html

Thank you and Happy Christmas!!!!

Bruce.

--
Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity

kittysgrey volvo is correct - I am looking for a 1993+ AW70/71 tailshaft housing that has a good bearing...

My 1994 940 wagon has 275K miles and I hope it will be good for another 100K miles. Options I am thinking about are:

Use the transmission from my 1993 940 parts car. However that transmission has over 200K miles.

Find a pre-1993 transmission from a 740 or 940. That transmission will have a tailshaft bushing instead of a bearing. The bushing is available and can easily be replaced.

Sell the 1994 940 in as-is condition plus the 1993 940 parts car.

Thanks,

Mike

Working on an automatic transmission is tough enough just to isolate the trouble from something external, easy and inexpensive to repair. I think very few of us here would consider "rebuilding" the AW without having full shop facilities including a biiig parts washer, and of course, the room to keep the thing once you've saved it.

I've done it. In a bathtub when I was 17. I had a good factory manual and access to some torque screwdrivers, but otherwise I didn't know what I was doing, and failed twice before giving up and getting a stick shift from a junkyard. The learning was stressful at the time as it was my way to get to work, but when I figured it was the convertor I needed, my perseverance ran out. Not likely I'll ever try that again.

Your thread is valuable because you did everything to pin the problem on the innards of the thing, and then acted on it. Thank you for posting back with the conclusion!

Only thought I have is someone needs that tailshaft bearing. :-)
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Merry Christmas!

This is an incredibly long thread! Sorry to hear that you have not had a resolution to the problem after trying so many things- investing a lot of time and money searching for an answer.

Without going back and reading all the suggestions I will throw this one at you. Have you simply disconnected the kickdown cable and see what it does?

Based on my experience: If the kickdown cable is fully retracted and disconnected the transmission should shift quite quickly through the gears. If you disconnect yours and it up shifts quickly then I would GUESS the problem lies in some way with the function of the kickdown cable.

People will be quick to say that it can't be the cable because as the fluid warms up the problem goes away and I would reply they are probably correct. However, at this point we are collectively grasping at straws. Disconnecting the cable and trying it that way is a quick and cost free shot in the dark at this point.

Investing $2500 in a rebuild seems to be an extreme measure. Facebook has a lot of sites that support Volvo enthusiasts. If you decide you need to source a used transmission that route might provide a number of leads.

Good luck to you.

Randy
--
Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Thanks for your reply and a good test to perform.

I disconnected the kickdown cable and still had a little warm up time before it would shift but not nearly as long. But then again I am getting better at finding that sweet spot a lot quicker.

It did shift into 2nd and 3rd a lot smoother and at lower speeds though without the kickdown I could barely feel the shift.

So I guess I can exclude the kickdown cable from list of possible issues.

One other observation WITH the kickdown cable attached was when going down a hill at like 35 mph and with little throttle I can get it to engage 2nd for that first troublesome shift, not sure what this means.

So now I am down to transmission replace or just a valve body replace.
Will try to narrow it down further somehow...?

Oh yeah, no way I am spending 2500 on a rebuild, would definitely source a used one and swap it.

Hi,

It seems to me that when going down a grade it should shift up into high gear to let you coast at any time. Even on the level or until you ask it to accelerate a little harder and then it would shift down.

I don’t think the kick down should be working at all, unless you purposely step on it a lot to pull it back.
It over rides the other governor setup inside the valve body.
A lot of it is done with flow and spring pressures as best I know about automatics.

Something is not right in that thing and it’s just probably partially plugged with trash from the clutch linings.

I wouldn’t jump on any “cleaning job” for 2,500 either, unless, she was a really outstanding dream boat and going to be worth it, maid!
I don’t think that exists in my world or many others with 240’s.
Too many other junkyards or seas to go fish in!
(-:)

Phil

Hi,

I had a thought to tell you.

I was told that this transmission is the same as those put into a Toyota’s sedans.

It was also brought up in this conversation I had with a retired Toyota mechanic that the transmission kit to go through these was relatively inexpensive to use.
If I were you I would try to check out Toyota forums and ask about the kit.
I believe these are Aisin Seiki transmissions and they made a whole lot of them for several makes of cars over the years. Borg Warner has smooshed with them over the years.

I would be willing to bet that these transmissions are very simple inside and lots of early on transmission mechanics were trained on them.
They can probably go through them in their sleep or in less hours than they sleep in a night!

Cleaning and keeping things clean are the secrets from what I have heard and read.
I read on Turbo Bricks, that it’s a must that you put in dealer o rings in the front near part around the pump, as it will leak, if you don’t.
After reading that, I think a Toyota rebuilding kit is the way to go but shopping the dealers could be a challenge to not get ripped off!
The article said to get Volvo rings but we know how that goes sometimes! It’s a 50/50 deal with some dealerships.

A third of this job is doing your research, another third is having tools and a clean bench area.
The other third is suppose to be the R&R part, if you can figure out the ways and what the R’s can mean! (:-)

I see you are getting plenty of feed back on this too!

Phil

Hi,

Thanks for the kind words.
I just try to explain things in a logical manner that helps leads to a next thought, so, the person wanting to learn will stay in step.
I always hated when a teacher that would be explaining something in the textbook and just went with the authors “X” number, that magically appeared out of the air, into the next step of the illustrational example.
I still think the theory of Trigonometry ratios should be taught first, with examples of geometry and algebraic math mixed in.
IMHO, A random but and purposeful order of work is needed. This can teach better with an actual spatial problem involvement that crosses over into the process of measurement using the Cartesian and Polar Coordinates system. This would replicate the real world in the books.
It would help explain how Letters, used in language, suddenly can appear among the number system, that was taught completely separately, in our early schooling years!
I was doing good until the eighth or ninth grade and then my language and math skills had a collision!
I had to adjust my imagination like when the Indians got guns to use and were starting not to use bows and arrows!
All was moving fast like Technicolor and a Technological slap in the face at my tender age of 14.
The lead up to man on the moon 1960’s!

Now back to your issue.
Just something I was thinking about during our lapse of the Brickboard working.

It’s interesting that you say that when you back off the throttle, that the transmission doesn’t want to shift up a gear and try to coast along but it’s will be still pulling? There should not be a neutral feeling and no pulling along.
If you shove down on the gas only a little more than lightly the transmission should drop a gear and pick up the load.
If you tromp on the gas the transmission could drop two gears if you were truly going slow.

Art has a good picture of the kick down cable hook up at the throttle on his site Cleanflametrap.com.
It’s about halfway down the written article.
There is a lot of slack but the most important part, he stresses, is to has to click down at the transmission before the crimped on stop touches the cables sheath up at the throttle.
That cable has to set or allow the governing valve to shut against its stop.
If the valve is not against the stop it’s possible, in my mind, the fluid pressure that it controls might leak by some?
This would artificially raise the pressures with in the shifting valve body.
I’m only guessing, but again, in my mind, that could raise the shifting point program a little higher.
The kick down feature valve, pushes back on the shuttle valves, that control what the gears do.

Would that be something, that this is one system fighting against the other, internally?
I sure hope, this might be a maladjusted cable length. It a very long shot but might be worth checking out.
I remember Art saying that the cable sheath or housing can get cooked by the exhaust pipes!
I didn’t even know that the cable ran down on that side of the transmission!

I’m glad you mentioned how the transmission is shifting and working. One has got to love those small details! It helps to mention things that might seem trivial to you.
The part about explaining the differences of shifting up and down and using the kick down feature is a big difference!
Using the hand selector, to do it manually, is another subtle method, but it lends facts to the case!
I noticed the responses but the detail(s) of how cold or hot just doesn’t make it through the 30 sec. video.

I agree the transmission appears to be in good condition.

Phil

So I took the car in for the diagnostics and the verdict was of course it needs a rebuild. The mechanic was very familiar with these cars having worked on many back when 240's were VERY common in this town. He tested and verified the kickdown cable first and says it was fine. he says it has 'morning sickness'.
I trust his skill but of course know he wants to make $$$. He sort of balked at idea of the transmission swap because he thinks since all these transmissions are 25+ years old that seals and gaskets will be worn in all of them.

My plan is to procure a used transmission, I have several leads on some AW-70s in the area (Athens Georgia) ranging from 200 (private) to 350 (dealers with 60 day warranty).

I am thinking I may swap out the valve body off one of these since I can handle that task alone with my son and see if that works.(a Saturday project)
If that fails then I will either pay someone or continue to educate myself and acquire the tools needed to change the entire tranny myself.(surely a multi-month saga).

I think you're making a hasty decision. I question your mechanics judgement on this one. The throttle not being seated is wrong, and could very well be the source of your trouble.

It's the simple things that get overlooked and trip you up every time. There is no way I would change a transmission before correcting this issue.

Make sure the throttle plate, throttle cable, and kickdown cable are all adjusted to spec. Then reevaluate whats going on.

--
Bruce S. near D.C.

Thanks a lot for your reply, I assume you watched my video where I show the throttlecable? and are saying that the throttle should stop on that 'stop' thing? I don't recall if anyone said it was set wrong so I moved on from that thought thinking i was grasping at straws.

I did adjust the throttle cable so it would stop at that stop plate but that just caused the car to idle like crazy high so I assume other adjustments need to be made before or in addition to just the throttle cable.
So if I take your advice it is to just perhaps reset the whole throttle, throttle cable and kickdown so they are 'perfect'.

I will take this suggestion and get smart about it and maybe post more videos.

Also, the throttle body has been cleaned as well as the PCV system, IAC valve cleaned, and all air intake leaks fixed (I was getting codes and high and surging idles before I fixed those items), I have not made any adjustments to the throttle though.

I contacted the previous owner who just got the car from a friend and he stated that he fixed belts,plugs, wires,alternator and adjusted the idle, he said he had not experienced this shifting issue but did not drive it much. If he is honest then perhaps something he did adjusting made it start doing this right after I bought it. not putting much faith in it but it may be a lead and related.

Mobile 1.....complete flush.

I still plan on doing the flush later this week or weekend but was still curious about the kickdown cable and the throttle.
I attached a link to a video and noticed the throttle does not make contact with the black plastic stop. Any chance this could be causing issues with the kickdown?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEHyQ_QSsXY

I changed the transmission filter today and....its SHIFTING so smooth through all gears.It feels completely different. I am over the moon with joy and satisfaction.
I only put 80 bucks into tools, fluid, and the new parts.
The pan had lots of metallic crap in it but filter seemed clean at first glance, it did however have some big chunks of crap come out of it when I sprayed it out with a hose. I went with the cut tube method instead of messing with bolts, i figured if the transmission was trash then a simple pipe would not matter much.

Tomorrow morning from a cold start will be best test.

I want to extend a huge thanks and back pat to all those who helped and motivated!

1pocket,jwalker,thisoldbrick, art, dave, beastdriver.

Conclusions are great for this board. Good to hear it was the result you wanted.

I'm curious about the tube cutting. Did you use a tubing cutter, abrasive wheel, or saw? What sort of hose did you use to reconnect?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Sometimes I think the greatest talent of all is perseverance. But only sometimes." -Mitch Albom

I used a small tube cutter (walmart 4$) and then used some plastic hose with 5/8 ID and some hose clamps. It made a nice clean cut and I made sure to clean any possible shavings. I cut it as high up as possible too.
i will monitor that tube cut close and make sure its as solid as I think it is.

Get ready to do it again . The new fluid will clean more particles out and clog the screen. Don't worry as it an easy job, just listen for the changes. I switched to Mobile 1 and couldn't be happier.

Yeah, it didn't work this morning when I drove it. Back to same ole bad 1-2 shift for first few minutes.
I cant figure out why it worked yesterday though just fine.

I give up on this and will take it to a shop to get a diagnosis.

Screen sucks the dirt up when running, settles back down when not running. On my 740 auto trans. The maintenance was never done so when I did a complete change of trans fuild, the detergents in the new oil loosened more funk into the screen. I've cleaned the pan and screen several times now and the dirt in the screen is getting less now. Screen seems to need every bit of it's flow area. You will either have to clean the screen several times,due to lack of maintenance or get the trans. rebuilt. This is the problem when changing very old fluid with new.

Yeah, i doubt its the screen as the old one appeared clean and cannot imagine it would get clogged after just driving it a few miles and sitting for 10 hours, but IDK.
I paid 1000 bucks for the car, not sure its worth getting a transmission rebuild and paying perhaps more than the original car's value.
Funny I went from loving to hating this car in less than 12 hours.
i guess I will see what tranny shop says before I give up

What type/brand trans fluid did you use.?
Pour a bottle of "Lucas brand" Automatic transmission conditioner into the transmission. Try this before the shop. Your seals might need conditioning. Around $8-$10. Very thick liquid. I heat the bottle up in the sun, then jam the nozzle of the bottle into the fill tube and cut a small hole in the bottom of the bottle so to let air in and drain. Secure the bottle in place and wait. Take awhile to drain. Give it time driving to work. The product has helped many with shifting. I only recommend what snake oil works.👍👍👍👍👍 Best of luck with your 200 model. I use to own two of them in the 80's. They both suffered decaying electrical wiring.....back in the 80's. All 80's owner know this all too well.

I used the compatible, cheap stuff from Autozone for the flush and did include some Lucas when I did the flush a few weeks ago.

I just don't get why it would shift so perfect after dropping pan, changing filter and just putting in a few new qts along with the original drained fluid.
I mean it was smooth through all gears and shifted perfect. Yesterday I just let it warm up after changing filter for 10 minutes, cycled through all the gears with brake on and then drove it..again it was perfect.
That technique did not work today. I am trying to figure out what that means that it would be working right after that change.

Now today its rough and had to warm up a long time before it started working properly.

I just tested it and messed with kickdown cable to just to see if things would change and they did, so it appears to work, I just set it back to original setting and its shifting as expected.

Would doing a flush and replacing it with the Mobil synthetic really do that much?

Yes Mobile one is worth the cost. Flush the whole system through the transmission cooler line. How your rear output shaft bushing in the transmission tail piece....Probable leak area.

Question, so when doing a flush how do I replace the current cheap stuff with the synthetic?
Lets say I remove 7.5 at of the current fluid and then add 7.5 of cheap stuff?
Then what? just the add 7.5 of the synthetic and remove the new 7.5 of cheap stuff?

I am all set up to do coolant line method and did it once but just did 7.5 out and back in.

I am a little confused as to how to get it to be all good synthetic fluid.

First, know the total amount of ATF fluid. Drain whats in the pan.run transmission line to a gallon container and refill the transmission with the same amount that drained out. Run engine and shift gears while holding the breaks until the transmission line fluid starts to bubble. This means the pump pan is low. Add the same amount again and run until it bubbles at the line again. You do this until around eight quart have been added to the transmission. This method assures the torque converter has been flushed. You just have to keep an eye on want you remove and what goes in. I always run through 10 quarts just to be sure the old is flushed out. The key point is the measured the amount going in so the last added ATF is not drained. Not hard at all and if you don't have a hose long enough to reach around to the drivers door so to watch the container for bubbles, then get help while draining. Remember when getting close to the final fill, don't drain/pump. the pan on the last add. Remember to check the ATF at running temp for correct level. Mobile 1 is worth the $$$. Top transmission line to the radiator is the correct line to remove for draining. I use an air tool connector that fits the same thread as the line, then couple a short air line connector to the fitting and run the line around to the drivers door. Thia way I can watch for bubbles and shut the engine off to add more ATF.Brickboard is here to help you.....Classic 240 sweetness.

Well i did the flush and filter clean,etc...just as suggested.
Car is at perfect fluid level with all synthetic fluid at this point, ran like 12 qts and was super clean when done. I used the Valvoline high mileage synthetic.
Issue still exists, my mind is blown and morale is in toilet with this one because after that first shift it drives really well, the 1-2 shift is a little rough when working compared to my other 2 cars but nothing to complain about.
Caveat: our other cars are an abused and neglected 98 4 runner (260K) and 2012 highlander (130k), but those are literally best (reliable/low maintenance) cars ever known to mankind, so any comparison is unfair.

So i guess this case is closed and will finally take it to shop for diagnostics.

I will post if anything interesting happens with the diagnostics or any divine intervention occurs. I am still hung up/confused by that apparent anomaly of perfect shifting after the first pan drop and fluid change(not flush).


Feeling pretty negative but still determined to keep this car on the road and make it work even if it means sinking money that exceeds the cars resale value but IDK...

Here are some videos of the pan drop and pre-flush if your bored enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arHrSDUVfO8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fly0vhe2wUQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0_bORqnuAM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EzLzC5A-vQ

Give the Lucas and now the synthetic ATF some time to work. The cleaning they do doesn’t happen overnight. If it were my car I’d wait at least a month before taking it to the shop. You know what they are going to tell you, don’t you?

--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Hi,
I will guess along with everyone else!

I looked at the tube videos and I don’t think that changing the oil so often is letting the transmission get all of any possible air pockets refilled.
How’s that one! (:)

You keep saying it’s fine, after it gets over morning sickness. That is a sign that there is a tiny little gremlin in the valve body manifold.
It could be nothing but an air pocket or a tiny little burr or scratch on a sliding piston. Yeah that’s a crazy guess! (:)

It sounds like it doesn’t take all that long to reach that point when it is going to start working correctly.
You have been paying attention and you know about how long it takes to get it warmed up enough.

Maybe? I would think of different ways to drive the transmission from start up in the morning while it cold as it seems to be a lack of expansion thing that’s happening until it’s get hot.
Either it’s the fluid that’s expanding or the metal body growing as it receives the oil. The pumping creates lots of heat, rather quickly.
All of it seems to be connected to that valve body or the whole thing warming up.

It’s my thinking, that holding the shifter in the lower range positions manually would not be normal for it. Doing this after warming up will be pushing a piston a little differently just might free up a speck of dirt or wiggle a burr. Using a fashion of shortened strokes internally might help wash it out. You know, Barely letting it have time to shift, at slow speeds, to the that next gear so it reroutes fluids somewhat premature.

I’ll suggest, like Mr. or Mrs. J. Walker (I’m trying to learn my lesson about names don’t always mean what gender) is suggesting and it leave it in there and let it work.
This sounds a whole lot like a leaky “O” ring on a piston. Maybe the chemical or viscosity of the stuff in the Lucas oils takes more time, in your case, to reach that rubber seal enough times!
I heard there was a good product in my “olden” days called “Trans X” that worked on slow shifting transmissions.
It was sold by the quart and was a one time shot on the big car transmissions.
Don’t know if it’s been outlawed or superseded but you might ask the shop about it.

Back then, I heard or more Ford transmissions than any other kind that would have an issue of not shifting all the way down to low gear when stopping.
You could tell which one it was because you would hear or not hear a higher pitch “whine” when it picked up, or a band tighten up, on the planetary gear ring correctly.
You either took off in second or it would abruptly dump down to the first gear on take off.

All it takes is a scratch from trash, to make it bash! It was the saying back then!

At least yours it going upwards and delays on tightening up a band enough!

A thought has occurred to me, that worse case scenario is that the band might be a a tiny bit thin on material for that second gear band.
It might be moving the band but not tight enough!
The clutch drums can get a little bigger in diameter with heat, but the bands get longer in length too!

So where do I go with that???
Maybe it needs an adjustment?
Does anybody know about that stuff?

It’s my understanding from what I have seen in transmissions or illustrations in manuals that
A piston has to move a lever to a full stroke in order to tighten a band of steel around a drum holding the clutch discs.
On some transmissions that internal lever can be adjusted from the outside or with the pan off.

If you go asking a shop they might be able to advise you.
Other than what I have mentioned above, that’s all I know about automatics!
It Must be one or the other?

Anyhow, keeping being patient, as we are also making a catalog of answers, in our brains, on this forum with you!

Phil

Thanks for the ideas, will be interesting to see what it actually is,if its an air bubble that would be really funny.

A little more info... with the kickdown cable set to the best possible position I could find The car will engage 2nd at around 20mph, 3rd at around 40mph, and OD closer to 55. The engine seems to be working really hard too even though i am not really driving it hard at all.
If I adjust kickdown to be tighter the MPH for those values above increases and engine revs really high and doesn't sound or feel right. compared to my 4runner it shifts to 2nd at like 14mph and 3rd at like 30mph and engine is not really working very hard or loud, its also a 4cylinder and I drive both cars pretty gentle so I dont know if that is relevant or a decent comparison.

on a positive note I have been able to find some decent priced used engines and trannys, mostly off of 740s, that model seem to be plentiful around here and super cheap either parted out or complete cars. I saw one b230 engine and tranny complete for 250. may be nice to have engine and tranny because i could pull all kinds of parts off the engine as needed perhaps.

Also my shifter bushings (the ones underneath near pan/valve body don't exist, not sure putting those in would address this problem at all. Lots of play in that linkage underneath.

I may make a video tomorrow of driving it around and getting it to behave.

I've not had transmission troubles (beyond the tailshaft bushing or OD solenoid) on any AW among all we've owned, and the reason I'm saying so is to be clear that I'm not yet experienced.

However, I know every AW70 I've driven finds 4th gear at 38 mph plus or minus 2. And those shift points for 2 and 3 seem way high to me too.

You sure that KD cable isn't sticking? I've had that trouble, if you can call it transmission trouble, caused by a leaking exhaust downpipe cooking the KD cable where they run close. Disconnect it.



--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

“Dance like no one is watching; email like it may one day be read aloud in a deposition.”

Hi,

I sure wish I could help you more. My automatic 1992 is down at the other house until winter starts.

Those speeds of automatic shifting up too seem about 5 to 7 mph too high to me also!
If you coast the car along without pressing for lots more speed it should seek the 3rd gear without going into overdrive until about 45 mph.
The manuals, like the M46’s, are recommended to use 5th gear shift over drive at 45 mph for the smoothest shift. Even using the clutch is recommended for longevity.

I assume we both have the same transmission but I don’t know about any lock up converters being super popular between the 92-93 years. I think they have an “L” in the model number.
I don’t remember seeing one but it’s possible?

I assume the kick down cable affects only the shift down when the pulley gets turned enough!
So having slack or lots of rotation is needed so it doesn’t shift back down too soon.
I would think, that if it were too tight, it might pull on something that could affect the shifting up as well if not centered.
That area could be a little bit more sensitive for some reason internally when colder.
A guess is in here for sure!
Play in the bushings from connecting the top side shifting selector, can affect the center location of the major lever. I wouldn’t dismiss that whole affair, of the tunnel, too lightly. Plastic is everywhere!


I have never studied my kick down cable since I got the car from David Samuels the Wagonmeister.
Maybe if you contacted the Wagonmeister.com site He could give you some advice on how he tackles transmissions like yours.
He occasionally pops on the BB but doesn’t comment as much as he use too on 240’s.
He is always “refurbishing” Volvo’s for sale or for special customers. He knows his stuff and works with reputable vendors and local shops to do some of his work.

My cars transmission came to him and appeared cleaned under there and he figured it have been serviced completely before he got the car. I could bare feel it shift at all!
He noted to me that the car was a “diamond in the rough” but in a very dirty cosmetic state!
He strips out the whole cars interior and details it!

I have put on about 26,000 in four years and it still works good. He cleaned it so good I still get compliments on how well it looks kept up today.
There are “has been” owners wishing they kept theirs. Some are looking for good buys and come up for a closer look with wanting eyes!
I’m not hard on my cars nor is my climate fortunately. They stay garaged when ever I’m not driving them as much as possible!
I’m not car crazy person about polishing every few months or things like that. I drive them in a regular rotational manner and still remember that cars are a very bad investment for the most part.

It now maybe shifting with a tiny bit more roughness than it did when I got it.
I’m considering doing an oil change real soon because I have no idea how many miles was put on the car before he sold it to me.
The manuals like 30,000 at most or there about.
I might try the synthetics as I have never been overwhelmed with any of the Dexron brand products, ever!
Their coolants being number one rot gut solutions with the ugliest colors imaginable over the years!
The transmission oils have changed about seven times over the years too! Whats been up with that? Something never seems compatible with all that experimentation at consumers expense.
GM has had on going issues through many many years since the eighties.
The turbo 350 was a good transmission, years back, but it needed additional additives to help it.
Dexron has been making so many errors, IMHO.
I THINK TOYOTA, know bunches about this transmission as it’s a very reliable unit. They sell kits for them for about $130.
I was told this by a retired Volvo mechanic, while getting gas at a Costco station in visiting Las Vegas for a Navy reunion.
This, Just before I realized I would be driving it to Florida, due to a hurricane cancelling my flight arriving there, so I would lose out on a paid for cruise.
The car was only a couple months “new” to me then with 243 K!
Not one issue the whole round trip back to California.

Anyway keep fiddling with it until you get it dialed in!

Phil

Thanks for the input, I had a feeling that things were off even when shifting on its own. It also feels like things are getting a little worse after all the flushes and filter cleaning. Hard to pinpoint really.

I made a few videos of getting it to shift, first one is edited to the last minute after driving around for about 5 minutes. May be hard to tell but it does shift near then end with me going from D-2 and letting off gas when it 'feels right'. the engine RPM's are getting high and i tend to back off when it feels they are getting to high. I have yet to just push it hard and see what happens.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lD9Yy93h1I

This video also shows me having to force it into 2nd.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOw6FowP-yI


The last video is the shifting 'working' without me doing anything. Shifting at speeds that are a bit too high.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_ctlzjO3jk

Hi, edit!

I will try again! Posted once and it moved the thread but nothing from me showing!

Hi, Got both going now!

Guess the board is up and working again! Sure was lots of errors from the dead zone!
Guess this happens once you leave those Google Advertising links lurking before Halloween! (:)

I have been watching your tube videos and noticed that you are working the selector and it does not always engage quickly. The revs are up despite you letting up on the gas.
That in itself says it’s not right!
It should shift upwards to third and only into overdrive above Art’s speed of about 38 mph or better sounds about right, I guess?

I still don’t know that much on how hydraulic shifting works but it is pressure programmed system.

When shifting up through the gears I can only imagine that the valve body has spring loaded pistons moving or shuttling back and forth.
This happens on pressure rise or falling off in pressure that they move accordingly.

There has to be a governing controller “overseeing” the motion or the torque and pressure flow relationships. The brains of the outfit!
As each gear is called up to be engaged, by selector or valving, a shaft ( somewhere) gains rotational speed, of which, should be an output shaft that the governor’s is being driven by or affected by with pump pressure.
It then, does what it does.
I can only speculate that it dumps that gear clamp ring and that pressure Pushes a shuttle to a slot or hole that is the next port, going to the next gear in succession.

This is all shifting up and it suppose at a certain points, preset!
The points on your car is later than normal because the governor is not getting an accurate flow amount to pass through the governor body!
I want to say, that the fluid flowing out of the governor or into the governor is to low until the ATF pump gets more speed to make more pressure or flow.

This, in my best estimation, means you have a solid restriction or the governor has gotten out of calibration.
This to me seems to be a mechanical issue with some springs or sticking swing weights.
Imagine distributor weights! Nah!

Hark ... the steam engine days, you just go up top side and hit that’s spinning thing with a hammer! :)
Darned olé bird poop anyway!
Oh! The issues of the late 1870’s and those journals with oil cups! How missed they were, if you lived long enough!
Automatic shifting, what’s that, GEARS? You mean belts and pulleys!

The governor is very important and is only overridden by the kick down cable.
It physically rotates the governor’s porting plate in the opposite direction of the normal out flow of the valve body set by the shuttling valves.
This forces the next lowest gear clamp to engage. When this happens, it’s only a one way or only one at a time designed clamp, that allows only one gear can be used at any given time.
Ever how the kick down passages are routed, the governor’s design over rides to prevent numerous outlandish engine or transmission revolutions to transpire.
This, No matter how much you plant your foot down or hold it there. It DOES have to be idiot proof!

I have no idea how the selector sets the program in the valve body manifold.
It must similar to how the kick down valve works, by opening ports directly, to only that channel, to use that gear clamp ring! Old technology speaking here!


Something is not flowing correctly, is a given here!
One would have hoped for it to be some sort dissolving trash that usually could be in a flush out!

This “might” be coming out of the main pump output passage that is feeding into the whole valve body.
Sounds like that would cause this lower delivery and delay.
If the inlet into the pump was restricted that would effect output in the same manner.

I Don’t know how you would get too that?
Where is a good manual for these transmissions?
Where to read what!

I hear myself!
I hunted and gathered! Yes sir’er there whipper snappers, of the 2035’s (:)
I hunted in the junkyards for my parts and I gathered up what I liked best first, from out of a mixed nut can! (:)-(:) with my bifocals on of course!

But I have to say, that you have exhausted the clean fluid route!
Trying higher detergents would mean trying something that dissolves things and the clutch linings might be something that you do not want to try to put at risk!
This particle, even dissolved by now, may not go anywhere!
There must be enough caught in a channel or bend that’s just blocking enough, all the time, despite the oil thinning out somewhat?

The valve body is in for a good tear down.
A through cleaning is in the future for this puppy I’m afraid to say?
It takes due diligence, a clean area and patience with a love of working for perfection!
From the past reads you have given us it seems is right up your ⛽️ alley.
Parts have to be limited to O rings and maybe new linings Maybe that’s the $130 I spoke about earlier.
How is the tail shaft bushing?
If it were mine, I would go for it, as you have been IN there so many times, what’s another adventure to you now?

Years ago, I heard bad things about Japanese transmissions, in like, having paper for clutch linings.
Mostly I believe was bunk spread around to discredit foreign cars.
As we see now, look who’s putting what, in where today.
Maybe on some brands it was true but I think over all, it’s like Art said, these transmissions have held up well!

That makes it a worth while project before the snow flies!

Phil

Thanks, I enjoy your writing style, very entertaining and thoughtful.I will probably read it 10 more times to glean what I can.I put in some seafoam transtune after draining a pint of fluid and I see a noticeable difference in the shifting, its less jerky and smooth. The fluid I drained out didnt look to great, pretty dirty even after 2 flushes and some pan changes.
I am now getting 1-2 at around 18 mph and 2-3 around 37 and then to 4th at 45ish.and must say once the car is warm it drives really nice.
I still have the issue with getting that first successful shift though so nothing is fixed and don't really expect the snake oil to fix this.
A few more details that seem to jive with what you are saying about the governor and pressure. When trying to get that first shift it seems to rev high and if i let up on gas and then give it more gas it's as if its in neutral. I have to let it rev way back down and then give it more gas to 'engage' back to first.
Also, after its working if I come to stop I think its stays in second and doesn't shift again until i get to 38ish(3rd). Is this normal? Going in and out of OD seems fine and always works.The tailshaft doesn't appear to have any leaks or anything. Not sure what to look for aside from a leak, I will google around and inspect that further.I was thinking maybe I find and swap another valve body if i can find one. If it works then great, if not then I can go about rebuilding my existing one. I suppose a transmission shop diagnosis is in order at this point, then hopefully the diagnosis is something I can tackle myself like the valve body, that would by far be the most intense repair I have ever attempted but it does appear lots of resources exist for that.

Thanks, I enjoy your writing style, very entertaining and thoughtful.I will probably read it 10 more times to glean what I can.
I put in some seafoam transtune after draining a pint of fluid and I see a noticeable difference in the shifting, its less jerky and smooth. The fluid I drained out didnt look to great, pretty dirty even after 2 flushes and some pan changes.
I am now getting 1-2 at around 18 mph and 2-3 around 37 and then to 4th at 45ish.and must say once the car is warm it drives really nice.
I still have the issue with getting that first successful shift though so nothing is fixed and don't really expect the snake oil to fix this.

A few more details that seem to jive with what you are saying about the governor and pressure. When trying to get that first shift it seems to rev high and if i let up on gas and then give it more gas it's as if its in neutral. I have to let it rev way back down and then give it more gas to 'engage' back to first.

Also, after its working if I come to stop I think its stays in second and doesn't shift again until i get to 38ish(3rd). Is this normal? Going in and out of OD seems fine and always works.The tailshaft doesn't appear to have any leaks or anything. Not sure what to look for aside from a leak, I will google around and inspect that further.

I was thinking maybe I find and swap another valve body if i can find one. If it works then great, if not then I can go about rebuilding my existing one. I suppose a transmission shop diagnosis is in order at this point, then hopefully the diagnosis is something I can tackle myself like the valve body, that would by far be the most intense repair I have ever attempted but it does appear lots of resources exist for that.

Hi, to RedBrick Dad or Oct 24th post.

Thanks for the kind words.
I just try to explain things in a logical manner that helps leads to a next thought, so, the person wanting to learn will stay in step.
I always hated when a teacher that would be explaining something in the textbook and just went with the authors “X” number, that magically appeared out of the air, into the next step of the illustrational example.

I still think the theory of Trigonometry ratios should be taught first, with examples of geometry and algebraic math mixed in.
IMHO, A random but and purposeful order of work is needed. This can teach better with an actual spatial problem involvement that crosses over into the process of measurement using the Cartesian and Polar Coordinates system.
This would replicate the real world in the books.
It would help explain how Letters, used in language, suddenly can appear among the number system, that was taught completely separately, in our early schooling years!
I was doing good until the eighth or ninth grade and then my language and math skills had a collision!
I had to adjust my imagination like when the Indians got guns to use and were starting not to use bows and arrows!
All was moving fast like Technicolor and a Technological slap in the face at my tender age of 14.
The lead up to man on the moon 1960’s!

Now back to your issue.
Just something I was thinking about during our lapse of the Brickboard working correctly.

It’s interesting that you say that when you back off the throttle, that the transmission doesn’t want to shift up a gear and try to coast along but it’s will be still pulling? There should not be a neutral feeling and no pulling along.
If you shove down on the gas only a little more than lightly the transmission should drop a gear and pick up the load.
If you tromp on the gas the transmission could drop two gears if you were truly going slow.

Art has a good picture of the kick down cable hook up at the throttle on his site Cleanflametrap.com.
It’s about halfway down the written article.
There is a lot of slack but the most important part, he stresses, is to has to click down at the transmission before the crimped on stop touches the cables sheath up at the throttle.
That cable has to set or allow the governing valve to shut against its stop.
If the valve is not against the stop it’s possible, in my mind, the fluid pressure that it controls might leak by some?
This would artificially raise the pressures with in the shifting valve body.
I’m only guessing, but again, in my mind, that could raise the shifting point program a little higher.
The kick down feature valve, pushes back on the shuttle valves, that control what the gears do.

Would that be something, that this is one system fighting against the other, internally?
I sure hope, this might be a maladjusted cable length. It a very long shot but might be worth checking out.
I remember Art saying that the cable sheath or housing can get cooked by the exhaust pipes!
I didn’t even know that the cable ran down on that side of the transmission!

I’m glad you mentioned how the transmission is shifting and working. One has got to love those small details! It helps to mention things that might seem trivial to you.
The part about explaining the differences of shifting up and down and using the kick down feature is a big difference!
Using the hand selector, to do it manually, is another subtle method, but it lends facts to the case!
I noticed the responses but the detail(s) of how cold or hot just doesn’t make it through the 30 sec. video.

I agree the transmission appears to be in good condition.

Phil

Thanks, makes sense. Only thing different than the last time I did the flush is to drain the pan first and cycling the gears with the brake on. Draining the pan usually drops 2.5 qts.

I just drove the car and after I got it to shift the first time it drives perfectly. I am holding out hope with this one more flush.
I still want to know the science on WHY? I mean why only the first time does it not want to go into 2nd, then all is well? I just don't get it.

May be worth a shot. Cost is just the fluid and your labor. Buy cheapest fluid for the flush then refill with Mobil 1 ATF synthetic. I’ve had great success using it in my 850’s transmission and PS system. Stopped the PS system rack seals from leaking. Never used it in my 240 but I’ve read here that folks have had good results using it in their 240’s AW70 transmissions.

FWIW - I wouldn’t do a tranny rebuild either. Extremely expensive! Another option may be a used tranny installed by a Volvo independent?
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Car still has issue this morning after the 10 minute warm up, took about 2 minutes of gentle driving around the block to get it to shift to 2nd, then fine. I guess I will change filter next and maybe try to be patient and let the fluid work its way around a bit. not very optimistic at this point and will be tough to break the news to my boy that we may just have to sell the car.

Yes, let the additive and new fluid do it’s thing for awhile then if no good do the filter and pan cleaning. You can catch the old fluid and reuse. Or consider another flush with cheap fluid and refill with synthetic ATF.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Oh, I was wondering about reusing the fluid from the pan, I was thinking that may be safe since its fresh. That will save a few bucks. Yeah I put the compatible cheap fluid in it now. thanks for that tip.

Yes, drain the fluid first then remove and clean the pan and filter. Personally, I would toss any residual pan fluid then top up with fresh.

--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

It doesn’t sound like a kickdown problem, but it wouldn’t take much time and effort to make sure the kickdown cable is properly adjusted and not catching or sticking when cold.

Cleaning the pan and filter wouldn’t hurt either. Someone recently posted here that doing that fixed a shifting problem they had. Just be careful with the dipstick nut!
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Okay Thanks, that gives me my next step if the flush we just finished doesn't work the miracle I need.
Yeah, dropping the pan and doing filter looks pretty easy and will be careful with that dipstick for sure.

Failed on dropping pan, could not get that top bolt for the dipstick off and the dipstick to pan bolt wouldn't budge (i didn't push my luck either).I guess I will send it shop for that.

If the housing is stuck, it is stuck for good!!! Do not mess with it...

Trust me... I heated, cooled and soaked mine. Nut/flange came off with 200 lbs of force all warped and did not go on. I saved the pan, but the dipstick was a goner.

Seems you started going down this route.. The bolts that hold the dipstick are tough. Painful as there is little to no room and one would have to drop the transmission crossmember/mount to get the long bolts out. Drop it and the bolts will have room to come out with the engine/tranny tilted. Be patient and strong. There is just enough room to rotate the bolt and out it came. Install is similarly painful.

Other proven approach: Cut the dipstick tube midway between the housing and 2 bolt bracket and splice it with hose and two clamps....


It is easier with the tranny out. You are almost there.

Maybe try soaking them with PB Blaster for a couple of days?

Removed my 90 240’s pan years ago before the metals had such a long time to bond...:)
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

flush is thoroughly and multiple
add an additive for this problem, you have nothing to lose

if nothing improves in the next few months and you can not live with it its easier and to swap transmissions than mess about fixing yours

Thanks, I am going to go with a flush and see how it improves.
I will also add some Lucas additive in this 1st flush.

Also, what is the logic behind it improving over the next few months with doing flushes? Is the idea that maybe a sticky valve body component will become unsticky? or just new fluid will be in system and not have to be warm in order to actually work?

For me, the logic is that a flush will more thoroughly clean the internal parts and you will then have close to 100% new fluid. A simple tranny fluid change will leave old fluid in the system.

If your planned flush doesn’t work, as a last resort you could do another flush with the cheapest fluid you can find and refill with synthetic ATF that is compatible with the AW-70 transmission in your son’s 240. Synthetic ATF has worked wonders in both transmissions and PS systems in my cars.

--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Yeah, Sounds like a valve body issue.

Here is some reading. https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/TransmissionAuto.html#ValveBodyService

If multiple flushes do not resolve the issue, probably best to inspect the valve body and replace worn balls/springs.

Complete flush with some cheap brand ATF. 300 miles, then complete flush with mobile 1 ATF.......replace the transmission screen and gasket when changing to Mobile one.

Yeah I fear the valve body too, that DIY is probably too advanced for me and I would get a professional to attempt that. Looks expensive. Its so weird that i drives and shifts perfectly after that one hard shift. I will do flush today and maybe give a week or so of driving to see if it gradually improves.

It does not hurt to go the additive route. Just don't overfill.

Taking the pan off without breaking the dipstick nut on the pan is a pain.
Some people opt to either cut/reattach the dipstick or disconnect it by the tranny housing bolts.

Last time my 240 tranny was starting 2nd only. I flushed it twice and that was the end of shifting altogether. Stuck in 1st... period.
Replaced the tranny... All good.

Good luck.

I have no idea if this idea makes sense. However, on the chance that it is a valid technique and might be helpful, here goes.

Last Friday I was discussing the procedure of replacing the kickdown cable on my 1985 244 with a local Volvo mechanic in a small Seattle repair shop. He said "You will never get the dipstick nut off." His suggestion was to remove the starter bolts to free the dipstick assembly and drop it down with the pan.

Yeah, I agree it seems no one thinks removing that nut is a good idea or possible. Good luck with the kickdown change. What are your symptoms?

I replaced a kickdown cable and either removed the pan or at least got it out of the way enough to do the job without removing the fill tube.

Dan

Actually, I think removing the nut is the way I want to do mine. Yes it can be difficult, but there are tools you don't have, and of course getting to it and applying leverage isn't so easy crawling underneath the car.

The nut is a flare nut. That makes it thin to begin with, and if you don't back up your torque holding the fitting, brute force will twist the whole thing right out of the pan.

So far I haven't needed to cut a dipstick tube. I wonder though, would my close-quarters tubing cutter swing around it or do folks saw through the tube and clean out the debris?

Last time I did it I still didn't have the proper tools either. Since then I've managed to add a 24mm tubing wrench (flare nut wrench) to my collection.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Why isn't there mouse-flavored cat food?

I totally second that flare wrench thought. It's been a few years since I've needed to drop the pan, but with lots of penetrating oil and careful brute force I always succeeded.

A flare wrench is definitely the best tool for such jobs, just like when cracking frozen fuel line connections. Flare wrenches don't just give a better grip and prevent slipping and damaging the nut faces, they better spread the force around the nut, not just on two faces. Unfortunately this is a large 24mm flare nut and anything over a 19mm-22mm wrench is quite uncommon as far as I can tell and not exactly cheap for such occasional use.

I can't remember if I actually did it or attempted and couldn't do it, but trying to get a couple of cheaters lengths on the wrenches (or using the wrench linkage trick, which I just recently learned) would seem like a good idea as long as you're using equal opposing force and don't have to put a wrench off angle to be able to add an extension. I've seen some extra long flare wrenches in catalogues with flex heads -that tool design would seemingly be ideal in this situation

This tranny connection has to be one of the worst to deal with in these cars especially as replacement lines aren't available and you risk damaging the trans fitting. The fitting for the transmission cooler line on the plastic sided rads is another one frought with danger if you don't use the counter hold method. That one I'm now more familiar with as for many years now I do all my trans fluid changes by flushing at the cooler lines -sooo much easier. As long I don't neglect the change interval and keep flushing until it comes out clear then I'm content I'm doing a decent job of maintainenace and haven't had any shifting problems even at well over 200K miles in both cars (having said that, I'm sure one of those devils will decide to misbehave tomorrow).

I'm sure you do this, but as a tip for others just starting to tackle such problems, having the wrenches closely offset, like 10-15 degrees from each other, allows you to put one hand over the other to squeeze them together with all your might. This is often easier and efinitely safer than trying to use one hand on each wrench at a greater angle. It can save a few knuckles too. Squeezing wrenches in this fashion also instantly stops the force once the bond cracks and the wrench handles become parallel in your grip, thus minimizing twisting of the tube after the bond breaks. Once you've cracked the bond between the nut and the threaded fitting, you can then take your time rocking the nut loose on the tubing with minimal twisting of the tube itself.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Looks like this idea is too late for this transmission tube, but might help others. I would find a box end wrench of the proper size from pawn shop or flea market and cut the end to make it a poor boy flare nut wrench. Cut just enough to clear the tube. This should work unless it really takes 200 ft-lb to loosen this nut.

beastdriver
--
Beastdriver - '75 245 240K miles (Beast) Out of service, '83 245 245K miles (Beauty),'87 244 DL 160K miles (Dodo),'01 V70 197K miles

As long as you don't wreck the temper with all the grinding, I think that's an excellent idea and will definitely keep that in mind next time I see any large combo wrenches for cheap. My flare wrench set only goes up to 17 or 19 and skips a size or two along the way.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

You might get lucky, but I understand a box end wrench or ring spanner derives its strength (and hence the material thickness in the ring) from the complete circle which confines the nut.

A line wrench or flare nut wrench makes up for the loss of the ring's strength in one way by adding bulk to the business end. Also, the alloy strength is a big factor, so that bulk can be kept at a minimum.

From what I read here, experienced folks are discriminating about the manufacturer of their line wrenches. For the brake lines, the 11mm line wrench from Snap-On is touted as well worth the premium cost. The consequences of a mangled flare nut are never cheap.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"You're only middle age for one day. I just don't know what day that was."

Your mechanic is right. See my prior post.
Getting those two starter/housing bolts off is a pita. Need to tilt tranny down. Bolts are long and underbody gets in the way of smooth progress.

Curious to hear an update on this shifting issue.

Currently not much has changed, just drove it some over the weekend to see if the new fluid and additive could work some magic.
The one new thing I noticed is that I can get it to shift pretty quick by just going from D to 2 a few times, very gently, not revving the engine to much and just lightly giving it gas and taking off. Then it shifts normally after that first forced shift.
I also noticed that the car kind of rattles under acceleration during this period of warm up. Checked all the exhaust covers,etc.. to the best of my ability. This rattle goes away after car is warm. The car is running really nice overall and is really fun to drive.
So it's hard to tell if things have gotten better or I have just learned how to work around this issue better. The good news is I can teach my son this hack and it seems safe enough for him to just do this around the neighborhood before driving to school in the morning.

Yeah, I think if I drop the pan I may go with cutting the dipstick tube, that approach looks pretty easy.

The local independent Volvo mechanic recommended a transmission shop, I called and they can do a free diagnostic check. I talked to the guy on the phone and they seemed pretty trustworthy and down to earth. I may go that route after another week and just see what they have to say.

Replace tranny?
Thanks for scaring the hell out of me! lol.
If the transmission craps out then we are done with this car. junk it and move on.

I did the flush and a test drive was fine and fluid was much cleaner at the end of the flush. level was fine and right at Max line after getting hot.
I Will test it tomorrow morning to see if it shifts like a normal, working transmission.