|
|
|
I have a 86 volvo 240 dl in extremely good condition.
I turned the car on and the motor revved up past the red line.
I took it to my mechanic with original volvo manual and he could not figure it out
I replace idle control valve, called my self checking hoses and proper vacuum sources but cant figure it out.
I think when shop replaced my accelerator cable and ac compressor etc they hooked up a vacuum or some wire wrong.
I am very desperate as I cant find any help on this issue.
also when I drive it and turn the cruise on it accelerates fast. If I step on brake or turn off cruise the car drives fine.
PLEASE HELP if you have an ideas of vacuum hose routing check, improper wiring or defective part ideas. THANK YOU
|
|
-
|
|
|
I have checked wiring on throttle positioning sensor and idle control valve. Tried a different cluster.
I can’t get the cruise not to race the engine to red line when cruise is on even in park
I have good vacuum from intake to fire wall servo.
The factory manual says after vacuum is verified place hose back on the servo on fire wall and let car run then pull vac hose off and there should be a big hiss! Mine has no hiss. But if I pull a a vacuum on the rubber hose, Mine does not his but if I pull a vac it hisses a good bit
I am desperate. Anybody got an idea?
Is seev
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
I first thought right out of the box is that there is a wiring problem.
The cruise control is not suppose to engage at any time below, I BELIEVE ITS, 35 MPH.
There has to be a crossed up powering link to fool the systems unit!
You keeping the power off to the cruise control was or is a hint for me, that something is really wrong!
How you ever get the engine to red line must have been scary!
The bit the other poster said about the cable in the pulley slots wrong would get you there, but did they ever test drive the car?
A common thing that can happen, is the throttle control switch connector, got switched with the IAC connector.
I believe that they both have the three female pin terminals inside.
They are very similar in shape that they will fit because they are long enough to reach both places.
It is worth a shot to peel back the rubber boot and look to see what the color code is for each harness.
That the only way to get it straight if this happened.
If this is a factory cruise control it is probably connected to the ECU for a vehicle speed read out or ENGINE RPM.
I’m not familiar with what type of sender(s) the factory puts on their cars. Around 1986 was the beginning years of electronic speedometers.
CRUISE control manufacturers (Dana) makes them capable of using either one to operate.
Magnets on the drive shafts were common for their generic models.
Good luck and post back what you think you can find?
Phil
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be willson
on
Mon Aug 24 09:51 CST 2020 [ RELATED]
|
|
Hi Phil
MANY THANKS. i never looked after about a week and just say this post.
I have been working on the car trying to figure it out and just cant but want to try your idea.
I have replaced the Idle control valve before and know where it is. I do not know where the throttle control switch connector is. Is this throttle switch connector under the hood or under the dash?
If it is under the dash would I assume the IAC wires are under there as well.
After three years of heck I am thrilled to try something else.
Please let me know as soon as you can.
I do know that following the factory manual. There is good suction on Vacuum line to canister on firewall. The manual says plug the vacuum hose back on if vacuum is good and run car for thirty seconds. Cut off car, unplug hose that says servo and there should be a hiss. I do not get hiss. BUT if i create a vacuum on the servo hose to car i get a big hiss
Something is not activating the servo on the firewall to work correct to me? so your wiring idea may be it if I can find throttle switch connector
Many many thank yous
David
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be willson
on
Mon Aug 24 09:50 CST 2020 [ RELATED]
|
|
Hi Phil
MANY THANKS. i never looked after about a week and just say this post.
I have been working on the car trying to figure it out and just cant but want to try your idea.
I have replaced the Idle control valve before and know where it is. I do not know where the throttle control switch connector is. Is this throttle switch connector under the hood or under the dash?
If it is under the dash would I assume the IAC wires are under there as well.
After three years of heck I am thrilled to try something else.
Please let me know as soon as you can.
I do know that following the factory manual. There is good suction on Vacuum line to canister on firewall. The manual says plug the vacuum hose back on if vacuum is good and run car for thirty seconds. Cut off car, unplug hose that says servo and there should be a hiss. I do not get hiss. BUT if i create a vacuum on the servo hose to car i get a big hiss
Something is not activating the servo on the firewall to work correct to me? so your wiring idea may be it if I can find throttle switch connector
Many many thank yous
David
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
Just spotted yor post.
The throttle position switch is located on the throttle body to the engine, on the opposite side or end of the pulley/rod setup that both cables fit onto.
One is for the pedal foot feed and the other one is pulled by the servo of the cruise control.
This switch on the throttle does not have anything to do with the cruise control working.
I only suggested it as a possible reason for the IAC to NOT operate correctly.
The IAC works with the ECU that controls the running of the engine Metric's and are two separate systems.
Do you have anything that looks like this PDF I found?
This would be a European factory installed unit and pretty generic, so don't take everything to be exactly the same.
http://www.240.se/litteratur/2-27-19.pdf
I looked over the post again and you said something about three years.
I gather you can drive the car but not with the cruise control on.
Can you elaborate more, on some history, of what it is doing, normally!
The servo pulls a cable using varying amounts of vacuum to pull that cable.
The electronic part controls the amount of bleed air to reduce the vacuum pull to achieve the speed.
The reason for this using of vacuum is a way to shut down the throttle in several ways.
One is the vacuum breakers on the brake and/or clutch cable switches above your feet controls.
It is a electric and vacuum switch together.
It cuts off power to the servo that stops the valve from closing so it looses capability to pull the cable.
It also opens the vacuum line to outside air. Everything has to stop.
The engines throttle is no longer held open by cable unless there get stuck.
One would think there would be a massive air leak but these devices are purposely made too small to let the engine get more air into it.
Lots of times the vacuum line down at the pedals split but the engine could idle towards a leaner condition, but not to red line on a tachometer.
You have got to have a way for air to be getting around the throttle plate or its being held open.
My best suggestion is to check over the whole throttle body workings, including the throttle switch and adjust things, per a manual, to make sure the plate stays "fully closed" after opening and closing.
Do this several times!
Post your findings, so we all can learn, to find out what is causing your issue.
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you is not enough
This was also emasculates to you
I ask for phone so I could send photos. Velcro I can’t figure out much less computers!!! And obviously cruise controls
Yes the car is an 86 with a 90 engine
The cruise control ecm does not have Volvo printed on it. Will post photo
Indicates to me it may be add on but looks professionally mounted and installed
As I said before the canister/ servo on the fire wall has a test listed in factory manual. Going to try to post photo
The top hose I unplugged and felt for vacuum as the manual indicated, and vacuum was strong
Then manual says replace vac hose and run engine 30 seconds. Then remove hose that says servo and you should hear a good hiss. There was no hiss
If I pull a vacuum on servo hose it does hiss. If I pull vacuum on the inlet where it’s says vacuum (the hose from intake) I get a good vacuum but when I pull servo hose off no hiss
In side the round piece w
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
I see you are still struggling with getting into the age of machines from your application of operating Velcro.
You know it may have had instructions, if you used them to fasten things onto something else like a wall or desktop. So I still think there is hope for you! (:-)
Since you told me you have an automatic there should be only one switch located below the dash on the brake pedal.
When the cruise system is installed on an automatic transmission there needs to be a wiring change made as noted on the bottom of page 22B of that PDF.
Check to see if that was done as something might hooked together.
Move one circuit over to only the brake pedal/vacuum switch.
It needs to Blue with a red stripe.
The green and red stripe wire is not used and is left disconnected.
I would even put a piece of tape on it.
The name on the box under there, seems to me or my memory, is the company Volvo used stateside by our dealers shops.
In the early years of 240s even the air conditioning was added on here as the Swedes were not big fans of it in their cars! They have mountains snow scattered in Europe. Safety was needed for some large animals and the car was sized inside for their people.
America was just getting into downsizing with the fuel embargo of 1974. The Ford Granada was as close as it got and a Volvo was still priced higher, as an import, without A/C.
But they had to get it anyway or nothing sold. So, dealer installation got it going. Cruise control was even later! Cruise control is not for mountains and narrow European roads.
We need to find out why that Servomechanism operates below 35 mph.
You should be able to leave it on all the time until you “set it” above 35 mph.
Of course, they recommend that you only turn it on with the turn signal stalk, when needed.
I’m suspicious about what is going on electrically,
A valve has to get power to close and modulate vacuum on the “throttle cable servo” below.
On page 23 is this what you have on the car?
Make sure you have the black wire from box “A” grounded as shown. I know the chassis is grounded but check for a wire coming out of either harness since there is two connectors.
There are no other electrical wires except at the brain controller box “A” and then up to that firewall housing unit “E” ... correct?
Maybe the valve in the servo controller is plugged up dirt and “not venting” IN some air and passing all the vacuum down below! (?)
I’m confused as you as to when and what the test procedure is testing. I think you are as well, especially if its malfunctioning. Hiss and no hiss from what storage place?
According to the PDF, the firewall controller sends the vacuum down to the foot servo, period.
The switches down there break the vacuum to it, for safety and backup reasons.
So it’s that can and firewall controller that works with the brain box under the dash.
Along with this, the switch down there, pauses the brain box with a power to ground circuit opening, until resume is used!
I hope you are getting this reasoning to followed this around, in a step by step manner, to trace why it’s working, while sitting there, still in Park!
You asked about the ECU or ECM being connected.
The brain box needs to see a Speed signal from a speedometer and or a RPM signal from the engine.
ECU’s are very common today, but on early aftermarket units, a driveshaft magnet provided speed only.
Some cruise controls can monitor the engine RPM and hold that as the cars programmed speed!
Both might even be used in case of a sudden change.
This will shut it down electrically but having both makes it for manuals and automatics capabilities.
That’s about all I can tell you at this point.
Edit,
Just saw the post.
No pictures, but I don’t think it’s easy, as I’m not computer savvy either!
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hey Phill
My daily update ( frustration note)
I finalized checking vacuum all over
Used a portable butane torch, put large Fuel line hose on it. Turned motor on And propane on unlit
I worked placing hose around all intake. Hoses. Air mass meter. Idle control valve injectors
I did it twice found no leaks
Replaced vacuum hose connector to vacuum on eco mounted on lower inside passenger front fender
Tried to check every component tied to a vacuum tube for leaks. Only place I find is at hvac inlet area
Capped off ac inlet vac. No difference
Pulled tubing under drivers side dash that comes from outside fire wall and t ‘s off to cruise vac servo canister at throttle cable by gas pedal. And checked brake switch with hose going to it
Undid hose to brake booster. Got great vacuum. Check valve in brake booster good
Tried different turn signal switch. No change
When I disconnect tube at firewall canister where it says servo (tube that goes under dash to vac I’m servo on pedal etc) when I suck on it the throttle pulls back a good bit at throttle body
Any new ideas?
Would the two extra ecm for cruise be for older or newer car
Tho they look identical. All ecms have Volvo name and same wording on other side but serial type numbers different
Some how I’m not getting vacuum to pull accelerator down or something electric
Could the small vac and valve unit on fire wall still not be working
I’m now at a total stand still. Shoot me your thoughts
Again very grateful
|
|
-
|
|
|
Phil
Let me say again thank you and I’m learning a ton and loosing my religion along the way!!
I got under the dash. I wish I could post photos. Did you see any in your email
On the break light switch is a blue/red on one side. Green with ???
On top of brake petal is another cylinder type connector that had two wires going to it
Green and red oN left side , the wire you said leave undone
I left green red wire off. No change
Car still red lines when cruise is cut on. Even in park wheels not rolling
I swapped the the wire going to the top from the brake petal and put it where the green and red wire was. No change. No change when I unplugged brake light harness and it redlines. Even with nothing hooked on either place on thing above brake lite
The is a black ground wire coming from cruise harness and bolted in
The servo valve on fire wall I took apart to clean. When I opened it the parts fell
Out and I could not get cruise to
Come on at all
Got A part like it coming to try
I’m gonna try to email photos on email
|
|
-
|
|
|
Phil
I sent the photos to your email. Did you see them I will try to print this and check the issues then re connect with you. again very thankful
David
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi David,
No, I haven’t received anything from you.
I checked my junk mail folder too!
Did you log in to BB and read my profile. I put it there because a person has to be registered into the BB to see it.
If you tap on it you get the process of going through the the BB and things might get scrubbed or not go at all if there are photos?
I get BB mail all the time on notice of thread response in certain circumstances but I haven’t done it or know how it all works. Other people might know.
I do subscribe as a Sunday driver that actually lets me think I’m donating but it’s not recognized that way.
It goes straight to Jarrod’s consultant firm I think. He has done a great job on this site and it’s not free for him!
What happens after that, it’s his business.
Readership on the 240 tab has dropped considerably from just a few years ago. Owner / enthusiast and cars are losing interest with age. To own a classic car has always been defined as a “special thing” for a certain kind of person’s character values! An appreciation, if you will?
It’s my way of paying forward.
Besides, I quit buying magazines due to so many advertisements and less journalism.
I subscribed to Popular Science for 40 years cause the page automatically stays where I left it in the bathroom.
The magazine turned into two page or an extra half foldout photos with continuations on the internet, if you wanted to know “the rest of the story!” I’m not a Paul Harvey and want myself wait.
It got where I had more questions than answers, from empty articles from both areas!
Maybe its why I write too much! Sorry?
I used the Sunday driver subscription on here as it’s the cheapest and I consider myself as already contributing when I try to help the threads or ask questions myself!
If nothing else, the forum keeps me engaged in thinking, while in the armchair! (:-)
If you just put my listing in your mail program it should come to me, but I probably will have to get more regular at reviewing junk, until after we get going on your issue.
It goes into my junk folder as I do not have you as a contact listing.
It works like a phone call but robots can’t get a hold of it.
You know I’m surprised that we are not seeing more replies to your thread.
Have you been trying to use the FAQS or search for more thread from the past on this subject?
I’ll keep looking at your thread and bringing it back up to the top for more knowledgeable eyes to see.
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Morning
I did go to your profile and found your email
And sent photos
Could you possibly email me through profile and I will again send photos
I’m pretty sure we are getting close to solving this cruise issue thanks to your help
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Dave,
I got your pictures in my emails so it’s not junk mail either.
I’m glad I figured out that what’s in your profile is only shown to yourself on some of those blocks.
It just didn’t click in my ole’ noggin.
I hope that the newer vacuum controller is the problem too.
It’s not suppose to pass vacuum below, to the vacuum motor, until it’s turned on and above 35 mph.
I have never had one of those apart, so your glimpse inside one, has probably not been documented by anyone. Maybe even Art Benstein, an automotive necropsy expert! (:-)
Your picture shows a honking big vacuum can or reservoir, for just a cruise control unit.
If a engine is under a heavy load, the vacuum drops “enough” that the cruise control quits.
The large can delays that reaction.
Looks like it is fed from a vacuum source that is for the cabin controls.
That feed has a restricted port fitting screwed into the intake manifold.
That line should have a two colored check valve and it looks like it does.
Why they want it sealed it off like for use like the cabin controls is beyond me, but maybe it’s not?
Something might be weird or normal around here?
We need to get this system sorted out and get the setup as close to a factory installation link I found.
Like I said, a vacuum can is questionable for being there as a little electric vacuum pump is used on these cars mounted on the drivers side firewall.
It gets turned on, probably with the signal stalk switch or the black box controller, after the stalk switch is used by the driver.
Constant vacuum isn’t needed and safer if its not there all the time. IMO.
As it is now, if that cruise system leaks anywhere it will be behind the AMM of which effects mixtures to a determinant slightly.
Emissions on later cars probably tightened that up, especially on the 90’s and up.
Do you have an extra wiring connector (a later version) to run a vacuum pump coming from up under the dash controller someplace and to go outside? I don’t think you have and we don’t know if the controller under there is a 1986 with 1989+ pedals. Volvo changed things around a lot. A mixed bag!
If not, someone placed the can out there instead.
That why I say it can operate on a very limited vacuum source as the components are small like the cabin controls are.
Enjoy your weekend!
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hmm,
You have a better lookout than I’m getting on my end.
I think it’s the blind leading the blind and of course, I don’t know who is in front!
Let me think, how I email you as it comes through on the BRICKBOARD header?
You don’t use the button just the letters I see in my profile, so maybe, duh, what I’m figuring is that you don’t see my letters in a block that doesn’t exist.
So here goes!
fillbaggs@gmail.com
Let see if I can step in front of you on this one!
(:-)
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Phill
I put new (used) part on. The vac valve thing on fire wall. Same thing. Raced full throttle
Changed ecm. Did not race and just knew it was fixed. Test drove. Hit cruise and it engaged. But started slowing down quick
Went home checked every line to be sure no leaking
I think all are tight but not sure about line going in firewall on passenger side into white round thing behind ac controls
At times on hard acceleration on hills the air blows to floor only
Any idea how to solve this ?
I really need help!!!
Thank you much
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
I got your message by the BB and by email.
It appears it was the black box was turning itself on all the time.
Guess the only way to test it is to replace it, as it’s rather hard to be under the dash at 35 Mph.
The floor valve comes on because it might be a default mode.
Open or closed can change depending entirely on the linkage design to what they want done.
For reasons of safety, I know a vacuum controlled heater valve is made to fail to the open mode.
This way, it will always provides heat in case you get caught in very cold weather or a blizzard.
This being a floor vent is understandable as hot air rises by natural convection out into the cabin so even if the fan quit and we know that one, going down the road will being in outside flow as it probably opened the flap to that too.
Again, Fresh air might be mandatory for safety.
On some GM cars, they will run the fan constantly at its slowest speed due to other designs interfering with the basic defaults working.
Not exactly, their fault, if YOU don’t keep it working!
Rubber vacuum hoses deteriorate by getting hard and splitting.
They also can get placed back in the wrong place during maintenance.
I didn’t think the the vacuum can was hooked up to a large enough vacuum source, as the cabin system is intermittently used.
The check valve is already tiny and wear it’s connected, to small orifice on the intake, this could be that problem.
We have to remember that, the cruise control, is an auxiliary system and it lets air in when working. This is so the servo below will not get pulled open as much.
Under climbing a hill condition, the engine also loses vacuum because the throttle is open more.
Everything gets less naturally.
Early aftermarket add-on ones did the same thing!
I looked back at those instructions and it does not say where to get the source vacuum.
The system has a different looking can than yours. It’s a Rounded factory style and looks smaller.
Maybe the previous owners had your issues and it helped.
They referenced another installation page for information not included.
It seems to be a consistently Volvo to Dealership relationship business.
Maybe this is why they came up with a separate vacuum pump to work around the symptoms you are having.
You might have to get a vacuum pump, ideally or a larger hose and a check valve for that system only and get them separated.
You would want to wire the pump to run only when the box was turned on by the stalk switch, so it doesn’t run all the time.
Did you new box have a circuit for one?
Maybe you can tap a wire for one on it.
I wish we had better diagrams available on the internet.
I’m Glad you are driving it now!
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Phill
I traced my vac tubes to the charcoal canister. One was completely off and a plug was leaking. Fixed that. Car runs better than it has in my 30 years of ownership!!!
I had a second vacuum ck valve and didn’t make much different but they could both be bad.
How do you check vacuum ck valve
The hose going into the firewall passenger side that T’s off the intake doesn’t seem to pull much vacuum
I checked the hose alone and it was fine
This hose goes into a big round white plastic container behind climate controls. Does this container hold a vacuum
I just can’t find a leak
I have a ???? Mighty mite?? Vacuum pulling tool but I can’t figu how to lock it with vacuum to see if there is a slow leak
Could Vacuum leak be under dash at lines around steering collum?
I read about chip in the cluster. But cud not find one
I will look up hose sizes and replace them all
All your advice and help is VERY MUCH APPRECIATE
I need to solve this
Do I need to try a new switch ( turn signal stalk)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi David,
It appears you are slowly getting around to those tiny places where problems can lurk.
The white bottle is only for cabin controls. The check valve to it hold it empty of air.
Those controls should work a few times after shut down unless the push button controller or a vacuum motor on the vents is leaking some.
If you are using a hand vacuum pump that is leaking internally, it will never hold a vacuum.
The tool should hold a vacuum if you plug up the inlet with your finger for as long as you keep a good seal on it. You need a pump that does that to troubleshoot.
When these pumps leak, you will need to at least clean the chamber of any debris, especially under an orange flap valve.
You can replace the inner workings with a repair kit that Mighty Vac sells.
I have a Sliver-line Model that’s pretty old and had to use a kit.
The Sliver line is made of aluminum and I have to watch out for liquids that might get sucked into it.
A lot of the newer one are made of a plastic and only vacuum.
This pump has a pressure feature with a turn of a knob. I use it to test my coolant system when it is cold with pressure and find leaks that way. With either mode it should hold a gage reading.
A check valve Is simple it passes flow in only one direction. When turning it around it stop flowing or checks it! Most you can blow through then and turning it stops you from doing that.
I was thinking about your vacuum source might have to be tee’d into the main hose going to the brake booster. The brake booster has it own separate check valve but you will notice a big difference in the size of the line.
I’m sure it can handle being tee’d into. It may be where the factory goes with getting its source. I can’t say whether or not it would need a check valve as the cruise control opens up to vacuum when on. That is if all is connected and working correctly!
Have you considered the vacuum pump for a supply?
You might get better performance with a dedicated source.
There’s a chip in the cluster but it is for the odometer and speedometer stepper motor.
I don’t know what your brain box uses to determine speed or if it uses the ignition system RPM signal? I’m blind on that!
If you have used to the stalk switch to set speed, Coast, with the push button and the slide switch does Resume or held it Accelerates and shuts down, its probably ok.
Why do you wonder?
I hope I answered all your questions.
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hey
I’m the dumb one here
I forgot that when I bought the car in 91 some one had blown the engine (flame trap clogged) and it was replaced with 90 model. Never thought cruise would be effected. Now that I’ve searched all over throttle body for throttle switch there is t one?
I fount the tps. But no 3 wire switch other than the throttle positioning sensor
They may have changed the cruise. But I highly doubt it
I believe the cruise in car must of been dealer add on as the ecm had the different name on it mentioned earlier. I’m so sorry. I just say a marking o. Valve cover that reminded me tho most of the paint is gone
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi,
So this is not exactly a 1986 power train too?
So you might have a "swapped in other things" situation so that wrinkles the picture a wee bit!
Is the cruise servo under the dash like the swedish factory one I sent you a link to?
The nineties cars have it operating the pedal directly on linkage under there!
Maybe the vacuum line is crossed up or tee'ed in wrong in someway?
I have been trying to think on how the brakes figures into this.
It might be something along those lines!
Factory cars have a vacuum pump mounted on the firewall and it's Only for the cruise control system.
For this system "A" vacuum can is not needed, as far as I know?
I think Diesels have to have one, so Volvo did spread their wealth towards volume buying!
There is a plastic bottle type under the console, but only for the cabin controlled vent motors.
It gets fed vacuum from a very small line with a check valve out under the hood and it goes into the firewall. Maybe there is a mix up with that somewhere.
I know you said, the car dies fine until you turn on the cruise control!
As far as phone numbers it is not wise to do that. Robots pickup on those.
I have seen them spelt out like on emails put in threads too!
I have an email address in my profile tab and it works through this site for PM's.
That way it doesn't go to junk mail.
You Are welcome to try it.
On some threads I get messages from it, even if, I post an answer back to someone, it comes to me also. This one ding in shorts after I submit it. It's like a confirmation of activity on the BB.
It a new feature Jarrods put in or it's because I'm a Daily Driver subscriber?
I hope I have shed some light on the cruise control workings.
Phil
|
|
-
|
|
|
Phil
I sent email photos to you. I can’t seem to get them
Posted on this post. Please let me know if you get them. Thanks David
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you Phil so very much. I need to send a few hours of shop labor diagnostic cost.
The ac and throttle cable we replaced at the same time maybe just 2 years ago. I picked the car up at night and immediately noticed it was out of gas. Made it to station and it only held 3 gallons. Then car wouldnt start. Hit fuel pump and it started. Replaced fuel pump samething. Was water in fuel injector relay under passenger side dash. Replaced relay and had windshield replaced with modern one and leak fixed by body shop guy.
Just telling you that as the leak may have done something to brain of car? not sure
The new ac was a different compressor. The new on the in and out hoses were at a V shaped angle where as the old one the in and out when straight up. My mechanic I used for years was retiring, selling shop and another guy put in compressor. TO make it fit the air mass meter was raised but just flopping around and the car didnt run good. I bought a used then a new amm and it runs very good except a slight slight sluggish take of but better high end. I think he advanced timing.
after the fuel and air mass meter i cut on the car one morning and it red lined and I mean all the way and I SERIOUSLY thought the car had blown up. No matter what i tried it did it over and over until i touched brake by mistake and it would stop and if i took foot off brake immediate racing. Then i noticed cruise was on. Cut it off and it stopped racing. Took to mechanic and of course "we had nothing to do with cruise" I fought it and gave up after 2nd attempt to not loose a friendship of 35 years. Other than this issue the car looks great and runs amazingly good.
I have not been able to find the throttle switch. I do know what and where the positioning sensor is. I will take of the tube to throttle body and check it but I feel sure it is good as I keep it clean.
I have checked and rechecked the vacuum diagram and believe i have it in proper sequence. I have checked vacuum of the servo vac under dash and it is good, the one on fire wall is good and engine vacuum in tube going to cruise servo is good.
One of the items in the factory manual says test engine vac and it is good. Then rehook to the servo/vac on fire wall for 30 seconds and then pull vac hose to underdash servo and listen for hiss. I get NO HISS. But i get very good his if i produce vac and let go. that has to be something.
This after noon i will go searching for throttle switch. Check throttle plate and see if I might find air getting into t body some how
Would air mass meter be tied to cruise? Would car brain be tied to cruise.
I owe you something, and my gratitude is sincere.I have the green factory manuals but I dit not have the one you emailed. My wiring to the computer box for cruise did not have volvo on it but the word "specific cruise systems inc." number SN 2 40 6 8 4
I sure hope the history gives you another idea that may help. This solving is now a quest but finding the problems may eventually do me in.
Thank you again I will let you know if I make any progress is exchanging phone numbers allowed on forum? I d love to talk over this.
David
|
|
-
|
|
|
Look for.the cruise control box. There are adjustments screws to set the engagement speed. Make sure the cable under the hood is routed over the pulley.
|
|
|
|
|
