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Hard to start when cold 200 1992

Hi all, new user here. Got a project 240 I’m wrenching on and hope to get some feedback on some issues I’m having. So I purchased this 240 with a blown head gasket and maybe some other minor issues, but a good potential daily driver nonetheless. So after replacing the head gasket and getting the head resurfaced, it finally runs, just very roughly. It’s had to start when the engine is cold, but once it finally catches, it’ll stay running, just very poorly. Once warmed up, it’s fine. Please let me know what could possibly be the cause for this hard start issue. Cheers!








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    Hard to start when cold 200 1992

    If this 240 runs fine when warm, and only has poor running when not warmed up, I would strongly suggest it's likely to be a fuel/ mixture problem. IC engines need enriched fuel mixture when cold.
    Do we know if this 240 has fuel injection or carbs? That's a good starting point

    Owen F








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      Hard to start when cold 200 1992

      It's a '92 -- so will be LH 2.4 most likely. It would be worth seeing if any codes are stored on the computer.








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    Hard to start when cold 200 1992

    If this 240 runs fine when warm, and only has poor running when not warmed up, I would strongly suggest it's likely to be a fuel/ mixture problem. IC engines need enriched fuel mixture when cold.
    Do we know if this 240 has fuel injection or carbs? That's a good starting point

    Owen F








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      Hard to start when cold 200 1992

      It’s the fuel injected B230F with the LH Bosch 2.4








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        Hard to start when cold 200 1992

        I'll guess Owen F. is from UK asking whether carbs or injected. Master Brewer, Owen F?!?!?!?!?

        As Mr. Art Benstein promotes, and I do not mean to plagiarize, yet am plagiarizing, resolving fuel delivery, checking pump on pressure at the Schrader valve, and how long does the the fuel pressure enduring after the pumps / engine is off.

        If your 1992 240 engine ran better before the cylinder head rebuild, suspect an issue with the repair. Check engine compression. Cold okay wth all plugs out, ignition wire disconnected, and fuel injection fuel pump relay disconnected, or fuse pulled. Even compression in all cylinder is key with more more than 5-10% variance.

        A check of the wire engine bay harness connectors. Disconnect, inspect, clean as you need (coolant corrodes). How is charging? 14.5 volts at cold, maybe 13.8 or so when warmed. Check air induction bots from the air filter box up to the throttle body. Though unlikely as a result of your cylinder head repair.

        Spin the fuses in the fuse panel?

        If your new timing belt was off a tooth on any timing belt cog, poor running and worse performance would persist through the warm-up. Yet I'm not entirely certain. One tooth off any of the t-belt pulley gears is rather significant.

        When you turn the key to instrument cluster warning lights on, does the "CHECK ENGINE" light also illuminate. Does the "CHECK ENGINE" go dark or remain illuminated after start?

        As 42 indicates, +1 on checking the OBD-1 diagnostic trouble codes.

        Your North America US market 1992 Volvo 240 is equipped with Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 / 3.1 and Bosch EZK116 ignition.

        The Volvo 700-900 FAQ includes a an article page to check the engine control for fault codes in both injection and ignition. Copy and paste URL into new browser tab or Window. You can click FAQ at the top of each brickboard page, yet you navigate away from the page you click FAQ on. So, use Shift+click for new browser window or Ctrl+click to open page in a new background browser tab.

        https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

        This article on engine performance causes may also help you:

        https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm

        Perform "Fuel Injection and Ignition Diagnostic Procedures in Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4+, Regina, and EZK 116/REX 1"

        If the red light flashes out anything other than the 1-1-1 all's OK, write the code down and repeat until no new codes DTC fault display. Perform the same in the other OBD socket. Post the codes back here in a reply to your original post.

        Unrelated: Do you know of the cold / preheated air flap valve in the air filter box? An air temp thermostat (Aftermarket Wahler PN 70411) in the air filter box upstream of the air filter. In Virgina, you are not required to test emissions. You will either want to replace the thermostat (Wahler every two years or so) or remove the preheater assembly and remove the silver air accordion style metal hose. If in a cold months very cold environ, maintain this system so engine warm-up is proper. A few YouTube videos about it. Same thing happens in non-Turbo 700-900.

        Hope that helps from this armchair.

        Instant coffee and eggnog boyyyyyyyyyyyyy.
        Happy Eggnog Holidayze!!!!
        --
        7 240s total since 1984. 3 240s today and rotting away.








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          Hard to start when cold 200 1992

          I'll guess Owen F. is from UK asking whether carbs or injected. Master Brewer, Owen F?!?!?!?!?

          Fozzard, Scotland. But no relation to the brewer of a similar name (only one "z" I believe......)

          Owen F








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    Hard to start when cold 200 1992

    Hi,

    It might help you to get more detailed about the condition of the car, to help zero in on the most like cause of hard start when cold.
    A blown head gasket is a mishap that can happen, anytime, unless the car shows excessive neglect!
    In this case you could have a ton of places to repair.

    The best place to start, is always, the ignition systems condition.
    Like it was said earlier, the timing and the ignition are prime suspects.
    The compression is a factor if performance of idling rough is in play and then it jumps to fuel mixture!

    There is a whole host of issues from mixture here in whether it’s an air control or electronic control event?
    This is why I express concern about overall condition of the car. In like, has it sat for a long time before you came along?
    Age we know right away, but mileages or maintenance records can tell us about the freshness of components so that we can “ball park” probabilities!

    Give us some details from past to the present work done and how hard is it starting up.
    How long does it crank before hitting and what happens during warming up to where it runs fine!
    Describe fine a little bit as in how it pulls and drives along.
    Hesitation, power band curve ok and so on!

    Welcome to the BRICKBOARD and Becoming a BRICKSTER!

    Phil











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    Hard to start when cold 200 1992

    A bad coolant temperature sensor can cause hard cold starts then running fine once warm. Another symptom of this would be the engine not warming up quickly.








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    Hard to start when cold 200 1992

    Check for leaks - vacuum leaks (plus brake servo hose), throttle body gasket, intake manifold gasket (replaced during the head work?) and air intake accordion hose.

    Amarin.








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      Hard to start when cold 200 1992

      Amarin is right on.

      I chased a hard start problem for quite a while to the point of thinking it was caused by a leaking intake manifold gasket - it wasn't. In the end, the intake air hose had a couple of minor, and well-hidden, holes abraded in it. I was surprised by how little false air it took to greatly affect the car's performance.

      As always, check the easiest thing first which, in this case, is the intake air duct. Oh, and don't get lazy - the air duct has to be remove and flexed to see these small faults.

      Rich (near The Burgh)







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