I recently replaced all 10 bushings in my rear suspension and thought I would share what I used to press out the old and press in the new. I used rubber bushings FWIW.

I have a super cheap 20 ton shop press that was more than adequate for this job.

See the google for how to make a homemade Rear trailing arm bushing (TAB) removal tool. The rear TAB remains on the car; all other bushings can come out of the car and can be removed and installed using the 20-ton shop press.

Ace hardware:
Cresent 1-7/8" and 1-5/16" twelve point sockets.
1-1/2" galvanized coupling 511-207BG
1" black merchant coupling 521-225BG.
Home Depot:
Rigid 1-1/2" conduit nipple 49206

For pressing out torque arm bushings: Use Cresent 1-7/8" and 1-5/16" twelve point sockets.

For starting the new torque arm bushings in, you may find it easier to use the Rigid conduit nipple. (this is for starting only - once started, use the above two sockets to finish pressing the new bushings in).

For pressing out the front trailing arm bushing: Use the Ace Hardware items.

Use the same to press in the new front trailing arm bushings.

The Panhard rod takes a little creativity because the driver- and passenger-side bushings do not have the same shape - they have the same outside diameter but different shapes otherwise. The Ace Hardware items above can only be used on the *passenger side*. The good news is that once you've removed your old *passenger side* bushing, you can disembowel it and use the remains to press out the *driver-side* bushing. Step 1: remove the *passenger side* bushing using the two Ace Hardware items. Step 2: disembowel the just-removed bushing by pressing out the center sleeve with a 10mm socket and the merchant coupling; discard the center sleeve. Step 3: Press out the driver side bushing with the remains and the galvanized coupling; this will leave the remains where the old bushing was. Step 4: press out the remains using the two Ace Hardware items.

Installation of both the driver and passenger side panhard bushings can using the remains and the Ace Galvanized coupling.

Also, read this current thread about the TAB bushing tool:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1670091/220/240/260/280/trailing_arm_bushing_tool_request.html

I'd rather the rear TAB would secure in the trailing arm. Had Volvo built a more durable trailing arm using heavier steel, may so. So, no.
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Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity

Hi efair,

Do you have the link with this information?

In times past, like in the late 1980s, I was using the Volvo condoned TAB tool. I used an auto machinist with proper presses and and mandrels to press all other bushing out and in.

I applied final bushing hardware torque from a service trench or with the RWD Volvo on an alignment rack or short lift, sitting on the tires.

This link contains instructions to fabricate and use a TAB tool (copy and paste into new browser tab or window):

https://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm

Be nice to add this to a 240 FAQ, or more general FAQ for 240 and earlier to 140 / 164.

Thank you.

Eggnog Holiday Boyeeeeee
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Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity