Together with other front engine work, I plan to replace the original factory accessory (A/C compressor, PS pump, and alternator) bushings on this 1991 240 with 141,000 miles. While searching for information about replacing these bushings, I came across a question submitted to the Brickboard in 2010 seeking advice on how to proceed. One individual ("punk240") who responded to the question wrote"
"You WILL have to unbolt all the components, but not disconnect their lines. The PS and AC are held in place by a large aluminum bracket that has 4 hidden bolts (not so "hidden" after you get the components out of the way)." And later "But to reiterated... Removing the bracket is the ONLY way to go."
1. Alternator. I've looked at this one from above and below. I see a bracket fastened to the engine block held in by two bolts just above the oil pan. Should I remove this bracket? Doing so would make it possible to take the whole assembly to the workbench to install the new bushings.
2. Power steering pump and A/C compressor. Can't see this area clearly enough. Where will I find the "hidden bolts" to remove the aluminum bracket? Should I remove the PS pump first in the hopes of seeing the area more clearly? The writer/responder referred to above wrote " - - - - but not disconnect their lines". Does this mean the bushings on these two accessories will have to be removed and new ones installed while working under the hood or under the car? I could probably disconnect the hoses from the PS pump and do that one on the workbench, but I do not want to disconnect the A/C hoses.
3. The responder also wrote " This will be a good time to clean the Idle Air ducting, replace worn belts, clean the block.. that sorta stuff."
What and where is the "idle air ducting"?

4. Another thought that occurs to me is that the responder might possibly be referring to an earlier model 240. If this is the case the information may not apply to my 1991 240.

Jerry,

I've done this on all of my 240's, all 4 of them and yes, you need to remove the bracket's, it just makes the job easier.

On the alternator side, take it all out of the car. Easy, nothing much more to be said, though others will chime in.

On the driver's side, I've found that if you remove the MAF, intake tubing to the throttle body, air filter box that you have way more room to get it out.

If memory serves me correctly I also removed the drives engine mount as that gained me more access to all the bolts.

You will have to remove just 4 bolts for the compressor, and then suspend it so that you don't damage the piping. I failed to do this on my first one and it weakened the ac return line and it finally snapped at a later date, so please do your best to suspend it. You will also have to suspend the power steering pump, but that is not as big of a deal as the compressor.

Once the compressor is out of the way, you will see the 2 bolts that hide behind it.

One thing that I've started doing with my cars, if at all possible, is to go the PNP and remove the part that I want to work on. In this case going to the PNP and removing the power steering pump/ac compressor bracket, then cleaning it up and installing said bushings in it so that when I'm finally doing the replacement, I'm spending less time replacing and all I'm doing now is a swap. This works for most things, however, mind the year of car that you pull things from.

I had a spare one of these lying around 2 years ago when I did this procedure on my 93. Well I get it in and the compressor won't line up at all. I'm like what the heck??? So I pull it out and compare it to the one I pulled out. Sure enough, when Volvo switched to 134a, they changed the compressor and how it sits in this bracket so they made a new one.

So what should have been a quick job turned into a much longer job. There was much cursing that day!

So I know I'm probably glossing over a lot of stuff, but you seem like the kind of guy who can figure it out, and if need be, post back question's when you get stuck, so let us know what other questions you have and we'll answer them.

Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245

What year did thay change the brackets from r12 to r134?

1993
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245

Thanks Matt and Eric for your helpful advice. This gives me more confidence that I can accomplish this.
Matt, I was not sure what you meant by "I also removed the drives engine mount as that gained me more access to all the bolts." Could you please clarify that?

Just looked at this again, and you don't need to remove it.

I had it out as I was replacing them when I did this two years ago, and it made accessing the bottom bolt a whole lot easier.

I hope this helps.

Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245

Hi Matt,
Sorry, I'm still not understanding completely. To change the bushings in the alternator remove the attached wires and unbolt the bracket attached to the engine block on the passenger side. Then remove the alternator with bracket attached as a unit. Change the bushings on a workbench, then reinstall. Correct?
Now the A/C compressor and the PS box. Not sure what you are recommending for removing these two accessories. Would I first remove the PS unit, or at least move it out of the way? What would be the next move? I would prefer to remove whatever will make the job easier, possibly even the battery box. Thanks for your suggestions.
Jerry

Jerry,

1. Remove the alternator from the car, then remove the bracket from the block that is next to the engine mount. This bracket has two bushing in it that need to be replaced. The other bracket that connects to the block under the water pump has one bushing in it as well and needs to be replaced.

2. First remove the power steering pump, and set it aside or suspend it with wire so that it is out of the way. Then you have to remove the compressor from the car. There are two bolts underneath that go to bushings, I think, take those out. The other two connections are on top and they are the adjuster screws that need to be removed. There will be two bushings on there as well.

Once the compressor is out of the way you will gain access to the 2 bolts that are behind the compressor, and by moving the compressor more out of the way you will see the two bolts that you can see when the compressor is in place, but really can't access well. They are left of the engine mount and left of the bracket that holds the intake manifold in place.

Once all 4 bolts are out, you will then be able to remove the accessory bracket carefully maneuvering it out while being very careful how you handle the a/c compressor.

As you stated the battery box. it can stay, though removing the battery and entire air box will help immensely when you go to remove it.

Does this help?

Let me know.

Matt
--
1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245

After removing the alternator and bracket and placing them on the workbench, I removed and replaced the three rubber bushings for the alternator. Two where the alternator attaches to the bracket that bolts to the engine block, and one where the tensioner piece attaches to the block. That was the easiest part of the job - two went right in with hand/finger pressure, the other needed just a little persuasion from the bench vice.
Now the problem. I did not pay sufficient attention to the components, nor the exact order in which they were removed. When taking things off, I placed small items in separate envelopes by component, (e.g. alternator, water pump, fan, etc.) In the alternator envelope are, among others, these items:
- the long bolt and it's nut
- a thin washer (1/8"?) that fits exactly the indentation in only one of the used bushings.
That used bushing with the indentation was in the forward hole in the bracket , and the indentation was on the inner side (back side of the forward bushing) where it meets the alternator body. When the long bolt is put in place, the alternator is too loose. If that washer were to be inserted where I believe it used to be between the forward lugs of the alternator and the bracket, the looseness would be taken up. However, that washer is just a hair too thick to fit in that space. I plan to squeeze that washer in there by some means and then install the alternator and bracket as a unit. My reason for concern is that the alternator pulley has to match up exactly with the other three pulleys. If I do put the washer in the place described, that would seem to be consistent with the shiny vs. discolored pattern of the bolt as I see it from the back side. Looking for validation that I am going about this in the correct way.
I do not seem to have any other washers that go with the alternator except for the small washers and nuts for the electrical connections. Are there no washers at the head of the bolt or on the nut side of the bolt? Is there a picture that would answer this question? Do the bolt and nut just close in on the round metal on the inside of the bushings, including the one for the tensioner arm?

Hi,

The answer is yes, about using a washer under the head of the long bolt. The face under the hex head is not very wide. The washer spreads the strain and provides more alignment room.

The nut you want to have on the other end is called a "flanged face nut."
No washer is needed when these type nuts are used.
The holding nut of the adjuster will have the same to tighten over the slot.
You will see the likes of one if you look, at an easy place to see, some on the strut towers nuts.

The flange increases the "surface area" of the holding force, that the threads apply, and therefore creates more drag as to not come loose.
On Some of these nuts, they can come with a raised or a serrated face, that helps eliminate any type of locking washers, if there needs to be more of a bite yet!
You will run across them on a car occasionally.

The flange actually increases the "floating" location or alignment over steel spacers in the rubber bushings until final tightening.
You snug up the long bolt before the adjuster is used.
Snug in the sense it's locating the alternator but not locking it place!
You do the final tightening to pinch the alternator between the spacers for a solid hold that holds it from going back and forth, let alone vertically.
The shoulders of the rubber bushings do the space fitting in the bracket and technically it's isolated from ground so make sure you use a good grounding wire on the alternator housing to the engine.
The adjuster bracket is for pushing on the belts only, since its rubber mounted too!
It cannot hold the alternator by itself reliably.


I don't think you can put the alternator in the bracket before you mount the bracket.
It's been a long time since I have taken a bracket off, but I'm pretty sure it's easier to start those bolts and wrench them in place, out in the open between the arms.
That alternator, by itself, gets pretty heavy faster than you think with all that maneuvering.

Enjoy the experience as much as you can by doing piece work!
It helps make it, as if were a piece or cake!

I hear tell of that anyway! (:)

Phil

Yes, thanks, that detailed explanation really does help. I don't have a lot of time to devote to this repair right now, so I want to be as prepared as I can when I break into this project next week .
Jerry

Make sure you re-install the bushings in the correct direction.

It's possible to install some of them backwards which will allow the bushing to move which can then cause drive belt misalignment.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com