Hi Phil,

I don't see you posting that much lately, but today you decided to make up for it, no?

There are so many comments I need to make in response, I'm going to quote your post and insert my comments in bold:

Hi Art!

I’m enjoying your pictures, of late, even more than in the usual post you do!

You are giving up little secrets to me, not that you are doing it on purpose but, I see that you’re more clever than you talk about.
This borrowing the garden sprayer to make your own “Motive” brake bleeder and cooling system tester by using old cap for each system is right up there to being the dual purpose guy that you are!

The garden sprayer was my first brake bleeder. The Motive replaced it as it has the much smaller volume and dip tube to allow brake fluid to be pumped instead of just air. Much improved method, in that you won't accidentally run the master dry.

I still use it to pressure test the cooling system after doing things like replacing a coolant pump. I run it up to 10 psi and walk away. If it holds half that after an hour I'm happy. The Stant tester I show in the other picture, being used on a 940, is what most folks probably recognize as a cooling system pressure tester. Comes with an assortment of rad caps that are useless to me, having nothing but 240's.

In an earlier post about cutting open an IAC valve from China I noticed it had a nice straight cut around the body end! Not done by someone with a “hacking saw.”
There was a nice true ring laying beside the unit that appears to be about one half inch long.
I assume that your friend that made some speedometer gears out of acetal for you, May, have done this for you? You have never mentioned have greater skills?
I know how it is about tying up someone else’s time, when asking favors, especially, on such an experimental adventure!

I don't have a friend making odometer gears from acetal. The machined-from-Delrin gears I've used were Ebay purchases coincidentally mailed from the same state I live in. They were accurately made.

Now that ring you see taken from the idle valve casting was done by me with a hacksaw and the bench vise. Shows how photography can make something look better than it does. It was my first attempt opening one of these. The second attempt was done on the aftermarket unit. Don't know that it was made in China, but it certainly could have been. Obviously, after opening the first one, I learned, and passed on what I needed to do to open the second one without using a hacksaw!

It looks to me you didn’t plan on putting it back together with that ring because it’s now too short. This of course means the valve is ruined that only cost $15.00 to begin with.

No, the aftermarket unit wasn't hacked so it couldn't be re-assembled. The original Bosch was. It was a unit that was sluggish in testing, for which the reason became apparent after opening it. Sludge in the valve part. Nothing at all wrong with the bearings.

Curiosity does comes with a price tag, but on failing parts that’s not not hard to live with either of us!
I always figure that the item has some worth left in it and that to teach me how it works and the reason for failure.

You are so correct.

You warned me about opening up one on my own from the way their built and now I see why!
Like we thought, there are fewer wearing parts inside with the elimination of commutator, slip ring and brush design.
For sure they have went for to be “cheaper made” right out of the gate!
I imagine that the preceding engineering prototypes were all caught up with having the ECU giving out two opposing polarity pluses because they wanted a precise control FROM their perspective.

I personally, would have thought a little further, in steps, to how much effort on my part to reuse the item? One step is to except the CHALLENGES involved and then is it worth it, overall?
I admit, Back in the day, getting paid had lots of a greater incentive to it!
Today, I have done things for myself and a few others, as my labor charges for me are less than those of Chinese labor.
The older I get, it becomes, that the need or desire has to reach a little higher up to be more on a priority list against routine living chores. The Brickboard just slips in between things! (:-)

I made a mistake by not testing the aftermarket unit in the system. System testing, meaning put it in a car and see how it controls idle over the range of warm-up. Now I plan to put it back together and do that test, which means it still occupies the bench where you saw it last until I do.

I would have turned back the outside diameter of the valve, to any diameter I felt like, to get a nice smooth and round clean up, while it was chucked up in that lathe.
This would have made that diameter square with the cutoff face.
This way I could have made another longer ring cap with an internal shoulder and pressed it back on the body of the valve.

No need. The valve can be disassembled by simply grinding away the three places where the end cap is staked. Even the bulkhead can be removed without drilling out the stakings there.

I know that the body is made of cast aluminum and not billet material and can present a problem with tack welding it to the body.
I have gotten around situations like this by using using an adhesive like “bearing retainer” that comes in small tube. It’s very similar to a thread locker product.

I have a bottle of Loctite 609 Retaining Compound that might have come over with Columbus. Seriously, I've had it over 30 years and a drop still locks in the outer race of a slip-fit bearing.

This can suffice it one did not think a press fit would do the trick.
There shouldn’t be any lateral strain put on that end cap so I think a press fit would just as good as crimping.

I still wonder about that substitution thing, we talked about, to make them compatible with the earlier IAC connections and LH systems?

As I mentioned before, I'll leave that test to you. If MacGyver did it, I wouldn't laugh and say "that won't work." Return on investment of time doesn't work for me, not having any LH2.0 or LH2.2 cars.

Again, where are the priorities, when only two cars out of six I have, will use a brush type IAC and I have junkyard spares?

To get back on topic more, that water is someplace “locally,” if it didn’t go out the tailpipe.
When it goes through the combustion process, the cylinders involved will have their sparks plugs steamed cleaned. There will be no deposits, except some white antifreeze deposits mentioned in another post.

We've all had learning moments tracing cooling system leaks. The responses in this thread cover most of those I can think of. OP will find it one way or another.

I imagine he is adding only plain water at this point of the summer and getting by until the problem gets worse!
Not a good practice!

Phil
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore