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Diagnose AC high pressure switch 900 1993

Hello,

Any suggestions how to diagnose the high pressure switch in the AC system?
Not the emergency cut-out switch in the condensor, but the one that should start the cooling fan in high speed.
The low speed switch seems to work OK but I am not sure the fan ever runs in high speed.

Mila








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    Diagnose AC high pressure switch 900 1993

    Unless you have pressure tool with correct fitting to the switch, you can't. My own simple method of testing these switches is by inserting a blunt object to press the diaphragm within the switch. Connect to multimeter set to continuity reading while doing this. Else, just replace the switch. The high pressure switch rarely operates. IME it did when I used VOV instead of normal orifice tube last time.

    Amarin.








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      Diagnose AC high pressure switch 900 1993

      So this switch is more of a safe-guard then boosting the cooling when you are in bumper to bumper traffic?
      I vaguely remember hearing some high pressure leak off from the AC on an extremely hot summer day many years ago. Since the switches have never been replaced, at least the high pressure and cut-off switches will be replaced.

      I just read an old post on a Swedish Volvo forum that Volvo made a service kit for corroded connectors to the three switches in the condensor.
      You just cut the wires and spliced in three new water protected connectors.

      Anybody seen this kit and happens to have a part number?

      Cheers,
      Mila








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        Diagnose AC high pressure switch 900 1993

        Just asked the local Volvo shop and they checked the retrofit part for me.
        They could not see the part number anymore and it was NLA already 1996...

        I think the easiest solution is to clean the connectors really well, fill them with dielectric grease and clamp a rubber boot around the switch/connector.

        HTH
        Mila








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        Diagnose AC high pressure switch 900 1993

        "So this switch is more of a safe-guard than boosting the cooling when you are in bumper to bumper traffic?"

        Something like that, yes.

        You have to consider how all three pressure switches operate - violet (high cut out), brown (high pressure) and grey (normal pressure). During AC operation the grey switch is normally used to turn on the radiator fan at low speed. In case of partially blocked orifice tube (which increases system pressure more than usual) the brown switch will operate (grey switch still operates but brown overrides grey at radiator fan relay). The radiator fan then turns at high speed to rapidly cool down the refrigerant to bring down pressure. However this does not translate into more cooling into the cabin. Well you can't have more cabin cooling while the orifice tube is partially blocked. In case all of these fails the violet switch will cut off the compressor. The violet switch is not wired to radiator fan. So at this time compressor will be off while the radiator fan still spins at high speed to continue bringing down pressure.

        There's NO cooling boosting feature for this AC system (unlike more modern cars). Bumper to bumper traffic or setting the cabin fan to max, doesn't turn on the brown switch. If you want more cooling consider parking the car in shade before use and tint the windows. Adding one more fan in front of condenser (pusher fan) might help a bit but then you'll have to deal with the wiring setup. My observation was if you start with already hot car (parked in sun) the AC really takes time to cool down the cabin, nearly 10 minutes or more. This in my tropical climate Malaysia. I love it when it rains! The AC really shines during highway driving, town traffic not that much.

        The VOV (variable orifice valve) has small moving piston prone to sticking (thus blocking refrigerant flow) in normal usage even when new. This was the problem I had when using VOV. Standard issue orifice tube only gets blocked when wear debris accumulated at its filter mesh.



        "I vaguely remember hearing some high pressure leak off from the AC on an extremely hot summer day many years ago"

        That could be the safety bleed valve at the back of compressor. In this case you'll have to top up the system again to replace lost refrigerant. Or it could just be the sound of pressure equalising at the orifice tube, after shutting down engine and AC. Thats normal. At quiet parking space you could hear this.



        "Volvo made a service kit for corroded connectors to the three switches"

        Haven't heard about this. But you could buy Bosch EV1 connector pins (at eBay for example) to replace those in the coloured connectors. Bosch EV1 type connector is standard for connecting fuel injectors and also those pressure switches. While those at eBay don't have coloured bodies or internal tabs to prevent mixing them up, you could use their internal pins (the electrical contacts). To replace the pins, pull the wire out from back of connector WHILE undoing the internal pin retaining tab within connector. A very small jeweller screwdriver might help.


        Amarin.









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          Diagnose AC high pressure switch 900 1993

          Thank you for the detailed walk-through! I have the original electrical connection diagram so that part is clear to me.
          It was the high speed/low speed part that I had not grasped.

          I am sure it was the safety bleed valve I heard, but it was just a very short puff.
          The AC still worked afterwards.

          I will look at the Bosch connectors, thanks.


          Mila







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