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Hi Byron.
Good shot of the bearing. Couldn’t make out the manufacturer name.
To me it looks to be a “very standardized” bearing except for the stand-out ring groove.
I think I could see 6308, of which, puts this number in this dimension range.
SKF 6308-2Z/C3 single row deep groove ball bearings
Also known as : 6308-2Z/C3, 6308ZZ
Inside Diameter: 40 mm
Outside Diameter: 90 mm
Width: 23 mm
You will have to only measure for those dimensions to verify the first numbers to get in the correct series.
Of course this is without any “enhancement feature letters” or changes inside those dimensions given. The fewer the letters the more standard it is!
All bearings can be reconfigured to move its strengths around to offset particular issues put forth in its use.
I read in Art post that the M47II had an added seal behind that front bearing.
Very vague to what kind, when it could have meant a Shield only, as it’s still needs to get oil flow!
Same for that bearing in the middle center of the two mating shafts!
How does it get itself oiled? By seepage? Probably why real thin oils are preferred!
Engine oil or a rear end gear lube with “extreme pressure additives” are killers to the materials used in synchronizers.
There are about four different cage materials use on bearings nowadays.
The bearing cage, that you show melted, was probably a polyamide plastic.
They can take a fair amount of abuse but in this case it must have gotten hit by a blow torch!
Ouch it was a mess!
Well, it can be expected since it’s on the clutch end. Those two main shafts in the gear case are driven by the engine practically all the time unless the clutch is in.
Maybe the clutch was slipping a lot and just as ignored!
As far as pulling that bearing alone, I don’t think so, as It should be pressed onto that front shaft.
There are two shafts get separated back in the middle under the gear wheels.
The front shaft setup, with it accessories, would have to be the same or smaller than the O.D. of the front bearing.
You have to pull the top cover to peek it out.
Getting “A”main support bearing, on either end, to shift within their widths outwards would allow more radial movement towards letting the shafts to drop out of alignment of each other.
YouTubes, have documented a tearing down and reassembling those T5’s.
The more the mechanic crowds know of them, the more interest there is in modifying them takes place!
Kits pop up! Wonder if any exist for the M-47 II ?
Taking the rear housing off is a likely starting point from what I have seen with them.
There are striking similarities and good hints or procedures on “how to put one of these M47s back together.”
Especially, with the amount of preloading allowed, big deal if not specified correctly.
Carefully not be too tight or too loose with newer “aluminum” cases.
One video shows that the rear shaft not to turn the front shaft in neutral.
I would like to play with that theory! Seems correct and sort of gives it that human touch!
On those cast iron cases a lot of people retired their skills!
The M45’s and M46 have less of a “case expansion change.”
It why I’m curious why the front bearing has as a polymer cage and how much feed back the assemblers got to work with?
Now I’m Curious, if the number or “style” of rolling elements can be upgraded.
I have noticed that both of these front ones, shown in your images, have Ten or more and their type of design purpose is different? It is odd to see them so close for the input bearing
to be that style, IMHO,
I have seen many variations within the series of what ever their sizing.
It means something to engineers and this ole‘ boy!
So does the amount produced in the whole world as it drastically changes the pricing that affects design!
A lot goes on to make good stuff!
It’s my thinking the M45-6 still looses that front bearing or at least they do get noisy, like in my 1984.
I hear a very slight spinning noise with the clutch out, even if it’s at 180 K plus! (:-)
The film of oil shown in the bearings are not red at all!
Looks to be a dark grey soot as possible oxidized aluminum!
The oil constantly washes the case inside with its detergents additives.
It Hasn’t been changed regularly and heads the list of just that, neglect, but doesn’t mean shot!
I would have like it better, to have seen the bearing in much less disarray!
That’s a lot of slop, for how long, who knows?
There some food for your thoughts, while you are investigating that trans!
Phil
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hi phil,
great information. here's the bearing number. i found this skf bearing number with clip/snap ring, skf 6306 nr (72x30x19 mm3). volvo's bearing, p/n 1377098, appears to have a metal sealed back.
installed is the ntn bearing. i don't believe volvo used these as oem, so someone has replaced these bearings before.

yes, the polyamide cage is toast, but no issues with any of the rear bearings, luckily. i thought about how to upgrade the bearing, metal cage or something, but i'm not going to go that far. once i do this the first time, i can replace stuff the next time. i came across a lot of chinese bearings claiming to be skf, etc, of course cheap knockoffs, not getting close to my cars.
the car is from the northeast originally. i found some stuff in the car. rust has eaten through the bottom and i presume the driver had water inside the carpet. yes, i could tell the car was not well-maintained, by everything in the car. i think what brought the car down was a bent control arm, which i thought was cracked, but only folded after taking a second look.
the clutch must have gotten really hot to melt the bearing cages, but only in the front. sticky clutch residue was inside the flywheel rim. everything else looked ok (junkyard tranny).
i received my front countershaft bearing, but it doesn't have the groove for the clip, so i'll have to take it to a machine shop to cut the groove and reuse the clip.
i'll pick up my resurfaced flywheel tomorrow.
with the right sourcing of pullers, i think i can pull the two front bearings out without pulling the shafts out. pressing them in is another hurdle, but checking on youtube to see how others did it. i may have to take it to the machine or tranny shop to press them in with a big bearing press that can fit around my tranny.
thanks for the insites, any experiences are well received, since i haven't had a personal car with a stick since about 1990.
regards,
byron
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misspelling, it's insight. can't edit above post.
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misspelling, it's insight. can't edit above post.
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