Hello!
I'm new to this site, so forgive me if I preface my request with too long of a backstory. I'm a 240 owner from New England, and while I love the weather here, 20-odd years of Northeastern winters have not been kind to the car. The other day I took it in to the mechanic for some routine brake work, and when he put it up on the lift, the undercarriage was more reminiscent of a termite nest than a chassis. He told me it was already unsafe and would not pass inspection in its' present condition. I immediately went online to look for replacements (As a 240 owner, failure is not an option), but to my horror found simple rails and cross members selling for hundreds each, and a brand new undercarriage totaling in the thousands before labor (Note: I DO have a friend with equipment who will do the installation for beer). As much as I love my car, I couldn't find anything that wasn't prohibitively expensive. The shame in this is that the rest of the car has been well maintained since my dad drove it off the lot, 37 years ago. So on to the question: Does anybody have experience rebuilding a 240 undercarriage? Even if not, is there somewhere I can get these parts cheaply, say under $500 total?

(PS - I will even consider making these from metal plates if I have to. Can someone tell me the gauge/thickness and type of metal used?)

Thanks,
Zoidberg

Hi,

You can certainly get all the parts for well under $500. A Google search of "Volvo 240 floor pans" gave me this.

https://raybuck.com/product/1975-93-volvo-240-rear-floor-pan-passenger-side/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsv7BRCmARIsANu-CQeJzRKOl-oC1moVeZ4M3A014cDZpLcKNxr0Y1t4qiXTwJflk62kIWAaAikiEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I think most of the sheet metal is 20 or 22 ga. Some simple parts, like U channels can be bent up from sheet.

This work is done all the time on cars that are deemed valuable enough to warrant it, but few 240's have reached that point, so expect some discouraging comments. It would be easier for you to replace the vehicle, but it would never be your father's car. Only you can say if that's enough reason to proceed.

I'm also in New England. Vermont to be exact. A friend of mine took his $1000. 240 to a local body shop that works at around $60/hr and was quoted $4500. for a floor replacement. He didn't go ahead with it but the price seems about right to me. It represents 7 days labor and a few hundred for materials by someone with skills, tools and a good work ethic.

Good luck, Peter

Hi Peter,

Hail to the fellow New Englander! (I'm from Mass, to be exact). Sorry about my late reply - for whatever reason I wasn't notified about your post. Thanks nonetheless for your recommendation, as it was very helpful.
I must admit that I exaggerated the extent of my car's damage somewhat - it's only really bad in a few places, mainly downwind of the front mudflaps where it was exposed to drain water and road salt. I did a thorough prodding a few days ago and confirmed that most other rust was still cosmetic.
I hope that sounds less serious than your friend's 240, because I'm no more willing than he was to put in $4,500. I talked to a local body shop that also works at around $60/hr, and the plan is to get an in-person estimate on Tuesday. Incidentally, I also ordered floor pans from Raybuck - glad you agree that they're a good resource! Anyways, thanks again, and wish me luck on my quest.

Thanks,
Aidan

I have experience. When it comes to rust repair the job is ALWAYS more involved, more expensive, more time wasted then it looked at first. Take photos of your car, pick some part to make a memorial and retire it, let it go (for parts for you or someone else). It would be far more sensible to carry on the tradition with a later model--which have better rust protection on the lower sections of the body. Price shouldn't frighten you. You may have to travel a bit to find the right car but they are out there and not all at killer prices.
In my quest to obtain the proper title to my '93 245 project I received an interesting document from the NY DMV. They rejected my attempt - I wont go into the gory details of the tangled mess I have - but -- DMV sent me a print-out of one of the big price guide companies listing the 245 values--everyday driver - $2300 -- very clean - mid 3's - top-over 4. I'm not sure why DMV sent it - maybe to estimate it's value for tax purposes??? I'm still looking for a path that will lead to my having a title in my name. The car was given to me by the original owner but she's never applied for the title in her name in all the years she drove it. Now no one has any records from a transaction that took place 23 years ago ----- oops, I did get into gory details-sorry. Keep looking and you'll find a keeper. - Dave

I'm thankful I live down here in Texas where we don't have the rust problem that most other parts of the country have. It's a shame to see a mechanically sound car sent to the crusher just because rust has made it unsafe and/or too costly to repair. I'm amazed at the condition of my '79 244, (from San Antonio), which I bought last year from the original owners. It still looks basically like a new car, inside & out. It would be great if scientists could find a non-corrosive alternative to melt snow and ice. Good luck on your search.

Just buy a clean replacement 240 from the southern part of the country. Save the good me hanical bits from yours (if you can get fasteners loose - LOL) for spares. It’s not worth the time, trouble or money.