A facebook user named Peter Carr in the Seattle WA area owns a 1993 240 he is mechanically restoring.

I have beseeched, bagged, cajoled Mr. Carr and other RWD Voovo facebook forum users, to search and ask at the brickboard, for better guidance on all RWD Volvo concerns here for years. Facebook refuses brickboard link pasted in threads and in the messenger service.

Trying to drive more fb users to a truly helpful form. No one here replies with "+Turbo" it or crush it. If performance info they want, I mention and paste a link to the Turbobricks forums.

New calipers all around, new flex brake lines at the front, Motive Power bleeder fluid flush. Was a problem before. The problem persists.

The ABS master cylinder and the brake light fluid switch are original.

On ABS, pressure switch merely checks balance between two front calipers and the rear calipers, yes? I forget. Google and Bing searches are useless, like the Haynes manual.

I've asked Peter Carr to followup here.

While logged into your facebook account, see the thread at this link (copy and paste):

https://www.facebook.com/groups/vopnw/permalink/1666092083559969/

Thank you.
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Beh.

I was not able to edit my post

The paragraph about a special tool should be moved to after the paragraph about adjustment.

Also the pushrod could also be too short.

I started this thread so Peter Carr of Seattle would get better guidance than that he receives on the facebook RWD Volvo group.

I see my effort here was in vain.

Thank you.
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Beh.

>I see my effort here was in vain.

I am confused by this response. Do you mean that your efforts did not produce any help for Mr. Carr here at the Brickboard or is it that no one went to Facebook to offer assistance?

I too, refer people to the Brickboard from several other sites (including Facebook) when it is obvious that no one (including myself) on that site can be helpful. However, after that suggestion they are on their own.

It is extremely easy to set up an account here and in fact it isn't even necessary to do that to post and ask for help. I don't think it is asking too much of a person to actually come here and sit down at the table.

Randy
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Hiya Mr. Starkie!!!

Sure Happy it's Thursday!!!

Hope you and yours and theirs are all safe, happy, healthy!!!

I have ABS on my 244. I see that it is one circuit, no redundancy as with non-ABS.

I could not imagine what would cause Mr. Carr's problems. He installed new front ABS calipers, flexi brake lines, and used a Motive brand power pressure bleeder to flush in new brake fluid.

Mr. Carr had the problem before all this brake service on his white 1993 240.

So a new master cylinder and brake booster goes on. I dunno if that fixed the problem.

I asked that he come here o get better insight. The responses on the facebook RWD Volvo groups to a OP's post, sometimes is supercilious with suggestions to sell his 240 or to crush it or +Turbo it. (Add Turbo from a 940 including engine control and the like.)

He did not, and all his repairs did not result in a desired outcome.

I forgot ABS uses a brake fluid level check for the BRAKE light. Not the brake light switch non-ABS uses.

So I was befuddled. And suggested he ask here for better guidance.

Oh well.

Now wondering when Uncle Old Duke makes an appearance as cooler weather is here, and he changes from his Saturn with A/C to his 1992 240 with M47 II and no A/C.

Thank you.
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Crush it and then +Turbo it.

Normally aspried 240 is fast enuff for me! Yet I had dreams of the PRV quattrovalve head in 240 without the counterbalance shaft in 1994 or so.

When one installs a new brake booster, one has to check the rest position of the piston in the master cylinder.

Sometimes a special tool is needed - I happen to have one because the new booster in my 54 Chevy caused my brakes to drag - BADLY - up to actually stopping the car!

There is a tiny bleed hole from the master cylinder piston area that allows some extra brake fluid to return to the reservoir when the brakes are released.

If the pushrod length is too long the hole is blocked by some pars of the master cylinder piston and extra pressure that develops by the brakes warming up. This causes the brakes to drag.

In many master cylinders you can see this bleed hole if you remove most of the brake fluid from the reservoir. You can probe this hole with a paper clip to see if the master cylinder piston is blocking it.

If so the push rod needs to be adjusted.

One trick is to loosen the bolts on the master cylinder and pull it out some (1/4 to 1/2 inch). This is like shortening the push rod - then check the bleed hole again.

Do a search for master cylinder diagrams and you will see that many master cylinders have a bleed hole - about 4 rows down in images is a nice simple double master cylinder.

Never mind Peter Carr.

Posts indicate with images he's installing a new vacuum booster and master cylinder.

Would ANYONE know or have a 240 ABS hydraulic fluid line diagram that includes routing through the ABS pump? For my edification.

I understand the ATE brand ABS Brake MC is NLA. Did not search too much.
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Beh.

"On ABS, pressure switch merely checks balance between two front calipers and the rear calipers, yes?"

No, there is no brake pressure switch in 240s after 1990, ABS or not. The failure light is tied to the reservoir's level sensor.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Just +T it. Possibly you'll crush it soon after.

Hi Art,

Thank you.

Peter Carr replied to the post in the 240, 740, 940 Fan Club.

He indicates he'll check it out. Hope you and Peter are able to meet.

Thank you.
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Beh.