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1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. 700

Since the weather is getting colder I reconnected my Airbox preheater hose and now my car stumbles when I try accelerating WOT. My thoughts are that I need to re-adjust the AMM because of the introduction of preheated air. Last night temps were down to 32 degree, so I pulled the preheated hose off and now the car runs very strong when boosting the turbo. I also replace the preheater air flap activator. My thoughts are that the introduction of heated air changes the perimeters of the hotwire / ECU fuel control. Any thoughts on this ???








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    1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. 700

    I reconnected my Airbox preheater hose and now my car stumbles when I try accelerating WOT

    That right there tells you that you should leave the hose disconnected.

    Turbo engines preheat the air in the turbo. They do not need an additional warm air draw to get the engine to operating temp a few minutes sooner. The purpose of the hose off the exhaust was to speed up warm-up time and improve emissions.

    My advice to people is to always throw away the hose unless their state emissions checks for its presence. In that case, rip out the thermostat and stuff the flapper into the hot-air inlet. Use glue if needed. The thermostat will eventually fail into a hot-only mode, and it will damage the AMM.


    Hot air will also defeat the intercooler and cause pinging/knock. This will cause the ECU to retard the timing to reduce knock.

    The AMM adjustments on LH2.0/LH2.2 were protected by a plug, which has to be drilled out and removed before the screw can be turned. Once it's been adjusted, it may never go back to the correct setting. It might be prudent to replace it.

    The "equal time with the light on and off" method only worked for a single engine control version - maybe LH2.0 with the -007 or -002 AMM.








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      1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. / Will 740 700

      Thanks, Will. The rough running engine when the Pre-heater hose is connect just reminded me too much hot air is entering the air flow due to a Faulty air flap thermostat. Replacing the thermostat fixed the over heating problem. I would rather keep the Pre-heater operational for quicker engine warm-up. This allow engine components to heat evenly and the AMM to operate at a more finite range. The Intercooler might keep temps down better in the summer temps but, winter temps and light driving without turbo boosting does not create enough heat to combat the cooling effects of the Intercooler in below freezing temps. I'm sure the Intercooler with pre-heat still chills the incoming air flow but, nothing like direct winter air temp without pre-heat. Engine operational temps. Is what works best for complete fuel evaporation. Especially with the incoming intake air in winter temps. It's the same thing with carbureted engine when pre-heating. Complete fuel evaporation. Unburnt gasoline washing down the oil on the cylinder wall and creating carbon is what happens when freezing air temp enter the combustion chamber. Sure....a cold intake can boost the power because of air /fuel density but, what going on inside the engine with all the unburnt fuel??.Since I know what's happing, I'm keeping the pre-heat operational.








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    1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

    For some reason I believe your 1988 740 to be a Turbo. Yet it is not. Turbo's don't have the preheater feature in the air filter box.

    You've replaced the Wahler 704110 thermostat in the air filter box to control the preheater flap valve? The flap valve always get stuck to hot air inlet only.

    I believe the target is a blend of preheated to ambient air to get around 65-70 degrees F or so.

    As CeeBee and other folks say.

    Unless you live in Northern Finland or the Japan North Island Hokkaido.

    If you are in temperate climes, and no inspection of the emissions controls, no need for the preheater air filter box feature. Though maintain the other emissions control used as sensor on the engine control. Or test them and ensure good MPG and clean emissions.
    --
    Beh.








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      1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

      My Volvo is a 1989 but , I have to reference it as a 1988 for parts. 1989 volvo 740t. I was just thinking if the pre heater can keep the air at a steady temp. ,then the AMM would stay closer to it's working parameters. AMM was set whn summer temps were in the 80's and 90's.....Now it's 32 degree at night. I thought the intake air pre heat would keep it closer. Flap must have gotten stuck open due to hot plastic smell when car is parked after driving.








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        1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

        You mean the AMM / MAF CO (carbon monoxide) adjustment screw?

        The AMM / MAF CO adjustment is meant to calibrate. Not for manual adjust like CeeBee and Grey245 indicate.

        This is more Arty B. territory, yet you were testing the AMM / MAF under the boot and / or testing the oxygen sensor with your trusty, rusty, multimeter?

        I was under the impression Turbo 4 cylinder redblock on RWD did not use the preheater feature in the air filter box.

        The Borg Warner Wahler thermostat 704110 is not expensive and easy to install.

        The exhaust manifold preheater plate is efficient at drawing heat from there and into air induction. It may get too hot unless a working Wahler thermostat 704110 dampens the hot air inlet.

        Hot temps may not be good for your AMM / MAF.

        I'll guess the air filter box with attached AMM / MAF is upstream of the Turbo compressor on the exhaust side of the engine bay. The silver hose attached to the air filter box at the underside?

        It's been sometime since I peered at a 740 Turbo engine bay. Sorry.
        --
        Beh.








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        1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

        "AMM was set whn summer temps were in the 80's and 90's."

        Umm, who set those parameters?

        There is no procedure available to use for this from neither Bosch nor Volvo as us mere mortals don't have the equipment to do it right. So who set them and why?








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          1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

          I set the parameters of the O2 / AMM adjusting screw with the "Blinking" red light while also watching the O2 sensor with a multi-meter. I reference the Ohms of the adjusted AMM and test drive the car and re-check. Then gasoline mileage and performance gives me a fine tune reference. So long as the "Blinking" red LED lights flashes at a steady On-Off rate at Idle I know the Oxygen sensor and ECU are within working parameters of each other. I'll be pulling the air box out after a engine warm up with the pre-heater attached this weekend. This will tell me if the "New" air flap thermostat has fail already. I'm real sure without looking, the smell of heated plastic and poor performance with per-heater connected is a sign the AMM hot wire going out of ECU computation. I think the Hot wire has to maintain a steady 260 degrees and with the full flow of the pre-heated it puts it out of adjusted range. My understanding is that it either has the ECU sending voltage to heat the wire at a set Constance or it not applying voltage depending on the air temp/density coming into the AMM It runs really great with cold air intake. Warmed intake air means better evaporation of gasoline. The only confusing thing is the Turbo Intercooler drops the air temp down some when 32 degree and below flows through its cooling fins and summer temp rise in the Intercooler when turbo pressure brings it up. So the air temp and density changes after the AMM computes it and the air passes through the Intercooler. I guess thats where the ECU engine temp sensor adds to the fuel mixture calculations. Setting the AMM screw isn't so bad Once the system is understood.








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            1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

            Since I have a LH 2.4 , I wasn't aware of this procedure, but I found it here. The way I see it, it is only meant to account for different responses between different AMMs. So basically a set and forget thing, and preferably done with a CO analyzer.

            I'd say the best way to check if the AMM needs readjusting at these cooler temps but with the preheat hose connected is to perform the calibration again and see if it is now out of spec. That's the only way to answer your question with certainty. But of course step one is to make sure the thermostat works correctly.

            It doesn't really matter that the air density changes AFTER it has passed the AMM, provided that the whole inlet tract is not leaking.
            Yes, the mass of the air changes with temperature, altitude and moisture content at ambient pressure. But once it is inside the inlet tract, that AMOUNT is known and no subsequent cooling or heating or compressing it is going to change that amount.
            The turbocharger compresses the air going into the cylinders, but that simply means that upstream more air must be drawn in when compared to a NA engine, which is, of course, accounted for by the AMM.

            Compressing air makes it warmer and thus less dense. Exactly what you don't want in an engine, so the intercooler takes away that heat again.

            The ECU tries to keep the hot wire temp constant. That means combatting the cooling effect the passing air provides. More cooling means more effort and that's what the ECU derives the amount of air entering the engine from. Very little effort no load (only ignition on) ~1.4 V, ~2.3 V idle and increasing to 5 V full load at high revs.

            Edit: the ECT tells the ECU whether the engine is warming up. When cold, the ECU enriches the mix to account for condensation of fuel on the cold inlet manifold etc. Basically what in the distant past we used to do manually with the choke. It only tells the ECU about the engine coolant temperature. I don't think the ECU cares much about it above a certain temperature.

            The O2 sensor closes the loop. This tells the ECU whether the mix was right, and the ECU corrects accordingly.

            But there seems to be confusion about your engine having a turbo. It says here that only non turbo engines have the airbox thermostat.
            So that has me wondering, what is the Bosch number on your ECU?








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              1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

              as posted: 'I think the Hot wire has to maintain a steady 260 degrees and with the full flow of the pre-heated it puts it out of adjusted range. My understanding is'

              the wire is Hot to burn off any carbon deposits that would result (the carbon deposits), in a Problem with the system as designed in.

              The first BOSCH 'computerized' selective triggering FI was introduced --- the LH...replacing the CIS K-Jet constant FI -- fuel measured with Big Round Metal Plate reacting to the air flow demanded by the engine as it Sucked in More.

              In the LH system the ECU solving for various signal inputs decided when and for what period of time to Open the Injectors and Squirt what Volume.

              (Corrections---welcomed)








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                1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. CeeBee1 700 1988

                CIS injection is mechanical with a few electrical sensor.No ECU..... The AMM Hot wire is always heated when engine is running with variable voltage swings. The wire burn off happens when engine is shut off so to clean any impurities.
                ECU.controlled. Turn out the pre-heater thermostat was the culprit. Flap fully open. Super hot air putting the AMM out of range. Most.just disconnect the pre-heater hose but, I'm keeping this function stock. Warm air vaporized the fuel better in the winter temps.








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                  1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. CeeBee1 700 1988

                  Radio Shack TRS 80, Apple II, IBM 8080.

                  Microsoft's Bill Gates --- no computer will ever need more than 512K of RAM

                  Buy My Software--- you'll Never Need a (manditory) UPGRADE. I swear on my phD.








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        1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. Wahler 704110 thermostat? 700 1988

        1988 or 1989 makes no diff.

        you are attempting to apply way way way more thinking than the designers of the system..

        in the 80's MPG a subset selling point---first set was SAFETY--- for the family/nanny wagon-sedan....U Won't Die in this CAR.

        It's 80's technology...they didn't Set the AMM at some ambient temp and then programmed ??? the computer to run the engine optimally at that temp.

        Your iPhone has at least 100,000 times the computing capacity as the "Computer" in a late '80's Volvo.

        wake up








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    1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. 700

    FWIW
    unless you live in a climate where the daytime temp never goes above 20def F
    forget about that pre-heater hose. The entire thing was put there to 'improve' the mpg when that was a selling point in the newcar buying world. The improved MPG happens from shortening the time the mixture is enriched during warm up.

    In old school terms/small engine snowblower carburated terms --- it shortens the time the Choke must be engaged to keep the engine from stalling. As you know, if you leave the Choke engaged after the snoblower reaches operating temp the engine will run rough and stall.

    I'm NOT saying the Heater Hose airboxThermostate is a Choke...I am saying the entire system is there to bring the Mixture to Un-enriched quicker. That's the logic.

    The risk to frying your AMM with a HeaterBox Thermostat that fails to close the flap allowing heated air to continuously run thru the AMM is more costly that any MPG-gas savings.








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    1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. 700

    I think I'll just leave the pre heater hose off. The other ideal is to measure the ohm setting that the amm is set at now, make a note of it and then warm the engine ,reconnect the pre heater and calibrate the AMM.I should have a peek down into the airbox and make sure the thermostat flap is still working.I did replace the thermostat in October. The 745t sure does run awesome without the preheat.It just feels like foo much heat is swinging the AMM parameters way off. I do understand that the hot wire (AMM) tries to maintain a specific wire temp and the computer applies determined voltages to maintain this temp. Now we know the density of the air. Thinking the preheated air is so thin the hot wire needs to be adjusted to it. Also the preheated air is so much hotter than atmospheric temps even in the summer. I completely remove the preheat hose when weather warms.








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    1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. 700

    https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm#TechnicalNotesonAMMCalibration

    https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm#AirBoxThermostatChange
    --
    Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.








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    1988 740 AMM adjustment with preheated tube. 700

    Hot air is less dense than cold air, but that is exactly what the AMM should be measuring, it's an air MASS meter, after all.

    What you call the flap activator is a thermostat. Once the exhaust manifold has reached a certain temperature, the thermostat must close the flap to prevent the air sucked into the engine becoming too hot and thus too thin. Also, if the flap sticks open, hot air will lead to an early demise of the AMM.

    That's where I'd start my search: is that thermostat installed and working correctly? But I believe more often than not the hose is simply left off permanently.







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