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SO, this has been happening for over 6 months and I am starting to get a bit annoyed....
If I leave my volvski for more than 2-3 days sitting, the battery drains out enough that I have to jump it to get it started.
THE ISSUE IS THE BATTERY IS PRETTY MUCH BRAND NEW_ LESS THAN A YEAR!
Pretty sure thtere is a ground not connected somewhere. Its cold and dreary out so I'm not trying to get under her anytime soon, but I am starting to acquire the info on wher to look.
If anyone has any info or hunches on where to start looking for a disconnected ground or other issue that would be much appreciated! Long live the BRICKS!!
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Have you figured this out yet? Looks to be the last remaining 240 mystery on the forum.
My experience: If you're sure the battery doesn't self-discharge, as a result of it having been completely drained or frozen in its young life, the most common parasitic drain in a 240 is a result of missing insulation on the key switch and lock button switch in the driver's door. It shorts out and causes a continuous operation of the central unlocking actuators. One clue is intermittent operation of the locks.
The second most common cause, having eliminated glovebox, hood, and trunk lamps, is a failed courtesy lamp timer relay, located on the brake pedal bracket.
Next in line are any aftermarket accessories using unswitched battery, such as keyless entry, sound system, dashcam, or alarm stuff.
An easy way to eliminate some of these possibilities is to remove fuse 8. This fuse powers most of the on-all-the-time things that cause a parasitic drain. That would be a good start to diagnostics, if a quick solution is needed.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Does running from my responsibilities count as cardio?
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Why not fit a battery switch next to the battery? Just interrupt the earth. Also is a good theft deterrent at least for the amateurs.Perhaps doesn't address the issue, but it does prevent the battery draining down. Just remember the radio code.....
Ian F
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I believe I have an interrupter switch lying around somewhere. A 240 aficionado friend of mine gave it to me. Stopping the battery drain would be the only thing I'd need to worry about. I think my '89 with its dents, black car door/white everywhere else isn't to attractive to car thieves....haha
But I should try it out.
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My battery on the 945 is just behind the RHS headlight in the engine bay. Not sure if yours is in a similar position, but I can try and post a picture of my set-up if that would be useful?
Ian F
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Hi
You asked, Why not fit a battery switch next to the battery? Just interrupt the earth.
Well, if you used the big ground (earth) cable, you would have to have a big O switch to carry the 300 amperes for starter current!
Now you could use one on the smaller body ground as it the one that most likely has the offending circuit for a small drain.
The best place is to check from the battery’s negative positive for everything going out of the battery and then divide the two grounds and use the method listed in “aleekat’s” posted link!
“How To Measure Key-Off Battery Current Drain”
The third paragraph in the post is my favorite to use.
It a way of looking at the complete car and then you can divide from there to which half.
Each half will read something and tell you how big the draw is to look for!
The third method is, again, the best , since voltage drops and things like that can get complicated, with or when, normal resistances are not know!
Those other methods like Using the same side (polarity), voltage check will spot excessive resistances in a certain “on” circuit.
That test shows resistances, with a minimal reading above all zeros and that means an exponential multiplier is in there being a gremlin! Especially in a charging circuit.
It’s good for finding a loss of power, that is not getting to someplace, like a dim headlight or slow motor.
This has been a nice thread tonight, with some great post from everyone!
Phil
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Phil, I have had a battery cut-off switch fitted to my 945 for many years, also fitted to my 2 MGs. No problems at all. In fact, for competition use these switches are a mandatory fitting here in UK.
Ian F
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Hi there,
I agree with what you say and I never said it wasn’t a possibility.
Yes, I have seen knife blade switches used on lots of equipment. Also in Frankenstein movies too! This was done for the effect to arouse thoughts of the tremendous power being involved!
Yow! the sparks would make a young boy eyes pop out! (%-) )
I could see the advantage of having one of those in a Mikes Garage cars, especially, it the battery was in the trunk or under a seat somewhere? With Lucas electrics, Just open the thing and no wrench hunting for a quick disconnect! In racing, thing do happen faster!
My sister-in-laws old VW Bug has that clumsy feature under the rear seat, but the engine and rear bumper are closer too!
Imagine the length of cable on other cars!
A neighbor of mine has 2010? Jaguar with his battery in the trunk and that car was Ford influenced and that didn’t change it. so that must be cool, with car designers anymore?
Thanks for your thoughts and our commentary. All of the Brickboard tabs needs the interactions!
Phil
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Thanks Phil. These battery cut-off switches are fitted to the cars I don't use every day (and use much less in these lockdown days....).For a modern car with lots of electronics running all of the time, and an alarm/immobiliser they are not a good idea!!
Ian F
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Two things that have happened to me:
The glove box light was staying on. This one take a while to drain the battery.
Some kind of internal alternator short. I discovered this by feeling the alternator in the morning. It was slightly warmer than the engine.
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hi gary,
the past several times i experienced a battery drain is when the alternator grounding wire is loose or corroded and split.
for months, i couldn't find the electrical drain, not charging 12V, and i replaced the battery. i had checked the grounding wire to make sure it wasn't broken off. in fact, only later after my checking more thoroughly this past month, the alt grounding bolt to the chassis (near the right motor mount) was loose. after tightening, it charges well.
regards,
byron golden
86 245
92 245
94 940
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https://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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Had a nor'easter out here in the east coast so I haven't been dealing with the car situation much as of now. Will do later this week.
Thanks for the link. Gonna dive in soon
Marc
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Electricity requires a complete circuit for current to flow and there are few electrical components under the car.
I would put a test lamp or meter in series with the battery cable and see if you can detect the current drain. If so, start disconnecting things. You may have to charge the battery first. Try disconnecting the alternator and power to the junction block on the fender.
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It's far more likely given your drain down that the problem is a parasitic loss rather than a ground problem. I would start by checking the alternator as a source of the drain. Other possibilities are the stereo system and any relays, dome light, glove box and trunk lights, etc. All it takes is a test light at the battery to check for such loss. - Dave
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Thanks VFH,
I recall now having some issues getting my alternator installed. I did it myself and the terminals on it were different from my original and i was confused. There may be some issues there.
I have already downloaded a bunch of images detailing the post terminal correlations from here and other sources, just too lazy to go under her in the past 3 months....guess i'll have to muster up the courage and do it finally hahaha
Thanks my friend
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