The radio suddenly quit working on my 1993 940 wagon with CR-814 radio. The radio is dead to the world with no display. I have visually checked the fuses and they are okay as far as I can tell. I also have 2ea. CR-718 radios that I connected and they are also dead to the world and I know at least one is a good radio. The owners manual says both the CR-814 and CR-718 may be in this car.
What pin numbers are the LCD display power on the rectangular connector and does it go through a relay that may be bad or is it from the ignition switch?
I have a Haynes Volvo 940 Service and Repair Manual but the documentation is very scant and does not describe what the power is for on the wiring diagram.
Thank you.
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Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running

Any Junkyard will have a stereo w WAY better sound for about$30!! Give up,those old crank radios!!

The radio is okay. I jumpered the rectangular connector 9 (+ batt.) to (+ACC) and the radio worked.
So, I'm thinking the orange +ACC wire goes to the ignition switch +ACC and that the +ACC connection isn't getting made in the ACC and Run positions of the ignition switch -OR- is a relay involved? I took off the paneling, the kickboard and metal panel underneath and it look like quite a job to get the ignition switch out and then if I did, what would I do? I have a couple extra switches in my junkers (1ea. 740 and 2ea. 940s).
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Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running

Hi,

I’m not familiar with any of the interior or as far as that goes the whole 940 line.
I’m truly a 240 man as I own Six of them from 1978 to 1993.
With that said I cannot help you.

I will say that it’s highly unlikely that there is a relay involved in powering up the radio as radios do not draw any significant current to warrant the use of any relay. There could be a in-line fuse, in a plastic case going to the b+ side going to the radio. They are of very low amperage ratings too.
You’re welcome for the link!

Of course, as cars have gotten more sophisticated with black boxes and CAN Bus communication systems and their Complications.
Now do you need a computer geek or a mechanic that changes out parts?
No parts or schematics are an issue for those of us who can think from A to C and know that B is missing!
I’m thankful for those you will share their experiences, in the computer world, even though cursive writing will not be taught anymore in our schools.

To all that post, we gotta keep up the good work!

Phil

Dear jd620,

Hope you're well. The ignition switch has two parts: one mechanical and one electrical. The two units are joined by two flat-head, slotted screws. The screws are most easily accessed by removing the instrument cluster. The heads of the screws point forwards (towards the engine bay).

Write-down the radio's security code. Then, remove the negative battery cable clamp from the negative battery terminal. Put the cable clamp in a plastic bag, to isolate it. Next, remove the ignition switch's harness.

The screws are best removed with a flat, ratcheting screwdriver bit holder. See: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11218-Finger-Drivers/dp/B013GK9I3A/ref=asc_df_B013GK9I3A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7376993926636971979&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002365&hvtargid=pla-571578786238&psc=1 .

There's little room to maneuver. Once you've started to loosen each screw, these ratcheting bit-holders will enable you to "spin-out" the screws. I'd replace the slotted screws with cap screws with a recessed hex-head. Those have reeded edges, so are easier to tighten with your fingers. A hex-head bit will do for the final one-quarter turn.

Once the screws have been removed, the electrical part of the ignition switch comes off easily.

Doing this is tedious but not otherwise nasty.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Thanks Spook. Another question you might know the answer to? Are the ignition electrical switches interchangeable between 740s and 940s. I have a 1991 740 sedan and two 1994 sedans for parts and am wondering if I need be to be concerned about interchangeability with my 1993 940 wagon? Since removing and installing the switches is, according to your answer to my post, not a trivial job, I don't want to do it twice and may just opt for a new OEM switch.
Thanks again!
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Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running

just replace the entire sterring column

If you attack it from under the dash, changing the ignition switch is a major pain and something you don't want to be doing any more than you need to, so using a new Genuine Volvo or good quality OEM aftermarket ignition switch would be my preferred choice to avoid having to do it more than the one time.

However, working upside down from underneath with all the blood rushing to my head is not my idea of how it should be done in the first place. If you're willing to spend a few extra minutes learning how to pull the instrument cluster so you can work from above, that will make it much easier and more practical to try swapping in a switch from one of your parts cars. After you've done it once and mastered using a good light and a small mirror to see what you're doing trying to access those miserable two slot screws you can't see, one above and one below, it's really not that bad. I consider it a half hour job now.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

I pulled the instrument panel to get to the top screw of the ignition switch and the panels under the ignition switch to get to the bottom screw of the ignition switch.
I replaced the screws with socket head cap screws and started them with an allen wrench. The allen wrench worked well since it would hold the cap screw to get it started and to run it in. I did have to cut the allen wrench up to get the right lengths to get by the metal support plate on the bottom and to use the right angle of the allen wrench to tighten the cap screws.
Here is a link to the cap screws I bought on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KYG2DS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(10) M4-0.70 x 12mm (FT) - Socket Head Cap Screws, Stainless Steel Grade A2 (18-8), DIN 912 / ISO 4762, Hex (Allen) Key Drive - MonsterBolts (10, M4 x 12mm)
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Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running

Cap screws strike me as a good idea. I'll try to remember that next time. I'm able to do the lower screw from above. I drop in an LED work light and wedge a small hand mirror off to the side so I can see what I'm doing. If needed, I've got an angle slot screwdriver (Z-shaped) to get the lower screw started as well as using a mid-length slot hex bit in my fingers to turn it. It's a bit fussy, but still faster for me than removing the lower panel, plus I can do it all from a more comfortable seated position. Of course wouldn't you know it, one time after doing it this way I dropped the screw during re-installation and ended up having to remove the lower panel to retrieve it, so now I'm a bit more careful.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Dear jd620,

Hope you're well and stay so! According to Volvo VADIS - a superseded dealer parts/service database - Part #9447805, the starter switch, is common to 940s (1991-95) and 740s (1985-92).

It should be available from a Volvo dealer in the USA or Canada. There are also aftermarket suppliers.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Hi,

Maybe you can use this post and others in the thread to find the information you are looking for.
It is written well and segmented as it covers a spectrum of possible of things you might want to do in a cars sound system.
The post has received four thumbs ups so it must have informed several readers on the many Boards different tabs of Volvos.

I used the search car in the upper right corner that uses google and it’s hits on Brickboard and the TurboBrick site from time to time.

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1270312/940/960/980/V90/S90/tutorial_installing_stereo_volvo_940_wiring_guides_included.html

You’re just a few clicks away from some help, I hope!

Phil

Thanks Phil (Machine Man). Good info in the link.
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Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running