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Hi,
I see half way down this post that you are on the right track of thinking mixture problems.
The throttle body is the halfway point too!
Anything behind the AMM is subject to affecting mixture. The hose, the ports under the throttle plate, the lines leading from the flame trap upward and connections in the accordion tubes elbow.
The switch in the throttle body has to tell the computer that you want it to idle and just ahead of time that you are stepping on the pedal to change all of that.
The interesting note is that you are holding the throttle open some and it won’t idle substantially long? Check out the whole basis setting of the throttle body.
Two other things I want to say is, air leak and the part about raining is two items so there’s a bit of separation.
I know it has been hard to think about it raining or moisture when it’s an air fuel mixture problem doesn’t seem appropriate.
Hold on to the end and maybe I’ll get there? (:)
The intake manifold has a gasket between the head and one under the throttle body.
Both seldom give trouble but in this case you have to keep an open mind.
The one on the head is about as easy to change out as the throttle body, times
four! (:)
The EGR is supposed to only work at idle for emissions and that’s why the CEL feature.
You could try blanking off the line from it, up to the intake, so in essence, stop an air leak.
But, expect a CEL if the ECU does not see a temperature change because of the lack of air flow through the EGR valve.
Just a suggestion, but A piece of cereal box cardboard can be placed under the bracket temporarily block it. Similar to a no hole gasket.
Now with the rain thing, you have worked out the ignition issue about as well as anyone could.
I would like to make another suggestion for checking the injector clips especially the ones on the very back cylinders. These operate on fast voltage signals to ground.
Clean the flat prongs on the injectors themselves with a fingernail sanding board borrowed from you suggesting wife!
Trim it down so you can lightly scrub the prongs slightly brighter.
Inspect the fingers in the clip itself for corrosion and apply a very thin film coating of corrosion preventer. Be careful about poking them with anything thicker that the prongs so you don’t lose their tension. A good cleaner works well.
In my old days I used TV tuner cleaner but there are better products, than WD40, out there. That stuff is just a fragrant solvent as something around kerosene and a tiny bit heavier than water. Moisture displacement (?) solvent with a lubrication value of fine filtered diesel fuel?
Carbon tracing inside a distributor cap comes from the lightening bolt strikes going on inside there.
Ionization of dusty air itself and possible engine oil vapors inside the distributor.
There is also a carbon brush in the center that can flake off on top of the rotor button. No surprises?
Individual coil placement on top of the spark plugs has been thought of as a novelty but they come with their own perils.
Having a newer car for your son is just swapping one small can of “known worm amounts” to get another can worms of a different breed and unknown quantity!
I’m sure you will whip this thing with all of your experience it just takes longer for us “older” owners to get it done!
Phil
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