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Cant figiure it out,,turns over cranks well but no start.New cap& rotor plugs are fine Fuel pump has about 45,000 on it w new sock..new filter..all vac lines seem to be secure.. Has been getting worse & worse for last week.I replaced RS relay w new& the white relay w known good..
Im going to test the fuel pressure next as soon as I rent the tester,,
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problem keeps comimg back!! I m waiting for anew map sensor off ebay,,& Ill try to flush IAC
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removed throttle body cleaned it thoroughly back side was filthy
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Now I will clean my throttle body.and do a valve adjustment.
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Finally resorted to replacing the air filter ^ & WWEELLLAAAA!!!
seems to have fixed it!!
I thought they lasted at least 30,000 at least &it looked like it wasnt really clogged!! Guess I was wrong!
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tiny springs were corroded & had lost contact w coil posts..
found a new WVE by NTK 6H1011 Ignition Control Module ,on amazon,,Im skeptical that they have it to sell other places were sold out,,
So I bent those little springs in & the cAr b is drivable.
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The original units are pretty robust. The only problem I have had is a 740 I bought that had an AFTERMARKET assembly on it. It would let me down and restart after 20-30 minutes of driving. It wouldn't restart until the car cooled down.
I got a used replacement from Frank Ponte on the Facebook group "Volvo Redblock and RWD only Classifieds"
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal
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FIXED IT!!!! all it needed was a couple blast s of KB in the IAC hose!!
Has started up RIGHT AWAY~!! FOR 3 DAYS!!!
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Dear Blindboy,
Hope you're well. In the automotive realm, what is "KB"?
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Hi,
I’m curious too! KB? Maybe PB for the spray stuff? This would be an unusual use for it through the IAC.
Knuckle Busting? If so, where did you hit? (:)
You posted it four times! Must have been one hell of a fight! (:)
In the movies, that would be “Kill Bill.” Does the car have a woman’s or man’s name? (:)
A little Kung Fu carried David Carradine a long ways!
It’s best for the car to get out of the garage now, as a being hung in up in a closet, in Asia, didn’t work out to well for him!
Happy for you, enjoy the rides!
Phil
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wouldnt start this morning untill I dripped some alcohol through the IAc,,TOMORROW iLL CLEAN THE THROTTLE BODY & CHECK..AGAIN
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Dear Blindboy,
Hope you're well and stay so. It is the idle air control valve that needs to be cleaned. Spraying "KB" (presumably some sort of oil) into the valve provided temporary relief.
But the oil - combined with carbon/dirt in the valve's intake (hose) end - has formed a sludge, that stops the valve from working. Clean the valve, using acetone, a strong (and flammable!!!) solvent.
Do NOT immerse the valve in any cleaner. Rather, keeping the valve's hose-end towards the ground (and the electrical connector pointed upwards), use cotton-tipped swabs dipped in solvent. Wipe all surfaces of the intake (hose) end, until the swabs are "clean".
Important: keeping the valve's hose-end pointed down-wards (towards the ground) will keep solvent from entering the valve's "motor" compartment.
If you use swabs with plastic - rather than wooden - "shafts", the plastic's flexibility will allow the tip to get to areas otherwise hard to clean.
Once you've cleaned the valve, DO NOT lubricate it with anything.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Ok now Ive done that & also sprayed the throttle body & wiped it out&now it starts!! we shall see if it continues!!!
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FIXED IT!!!! all it needed was a couple blast s of KB in the IAC hose!!
Has started up RIGHT AWAY~!! FOR 3 DAYS!!!
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FIXED IT!!!! all it needed was a couple blast s of KB in the IAC hose!!
Has started up RIGHT AWAY~!! FOR 3 DAYS!!!
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fIGURED IT OUT!!!THE LITTLE SPRINGS THAT CONTACT THE 2 COIL POSTS WERENT!!
i BENT THEM A LITTLE INWARD & REASSEMBLIED IT & IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!
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Good job, sir. Thanks for the feedback.
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Please make sure that you read the last line of this post
When you try to start the car, look at the coil wire to near a ground and see if you get one spark alone - this may be easy to miss, so try several times. Make sure you crank long enough to get the flywheel around a full circle.
When I complained that my Regina gar ranked a lot more than the other 3 740s that I had experience with - I was told that the Regina system needed to run past the CPS so the computer could senes where the timing was. ??? The car always started fine except for the longer crank.
I went soup to nuts checking codes and components in my '90 745 TI. I changed ignition parts with my other 740 to check them. I did not throw new parts at it to troubleshoot, but it was easy to swap the ignition parts (plugs, wires, distributor cap). I also saw wet plugs when I tried to start it.
I also checked all codes, and did all tests that I could do from the code boxes.
While I doubt that the CPS may be defective, this car had to get 1 used CPS and 2 new CPSs during the 100K miles that we drove it.
One interesting issue that I had was that the foam lining on top of the air box had deteriorated and had almost completely clogged the air filter. Have you checked that?
BTW this the second car that I have owned that did not start or died on the highway due to a clogged air filter - My Austin Mini died on the highway ON THE WAY HOME AFTER A FOREIGN CAR SPECIALIST GAVE IT A FULL TUNE-UP!!
My Uncle's diesel mechanic found the problem in about 1 minute! Air fuel and spark.
Oh, my non starting 740 - It needed a new computer - YEOW - When I went to a salvage yard that had over 600 Volvos, mostly 740s, they had over 150 computers, but none for my car - this told me something.
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When did you last go to the junkyard???around Phillipsburg is 1 old junkyard that has 2 740!! The rest dont carry old cars like this!!!
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Sadly, my last visit to this junkyard was 8 years ago to pick up 850 seats for my 544.
Since then, they have purged about 1000 cars for recycling the steel, many were old Volvos, especially 740s.
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I checked about 20 junkyards& all of them said over the phone that they were all crunched!!!https://www.car-part.com/
we need a law!! No more Save GeezerVOlvos!!
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Sounds like you have determined it is a fuel problem. Are you sure?
Does it momentary fire up on starting fluid?
Are you sure you have spark?
Have you pulled the ignition coil assembly apart and cleaned up the contacts?
How old is the crank position sensor?
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal
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the cps I think is good..I have no spark..at the #1 plug
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Take the ignition coil assembly (I forget the technical term) apart and see two contact points. Clean them up.
While it is not a great test of the CPS it might be helpful: When you crank the engine over can you see a tiny movement of the tachometer needle. If not the CPS would be suspect.
Hopefully someone with more Rex Regina experience will respond to your post.
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal
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I wish i had thought to buy a spare ignition coil their only $18 online ,,But I got 1 faster from the local NAPA for $45..
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Check for fault codes stored in the OBD. The 700/900 FAQs on this site will explain it well. Any problem with the CPS “should” record a code. The system can only store a max of three codes so if you read three codes then clear them and then crank the engine a couple times and read the OBD again. Note there are fuel system codes and ignition codes stored separately. The FAQ explains.
Problems within the coil pack or anything down stream to the spark plugs won’t record any fault codes.
Remove the distributor cap and look inside for oil fouling from a possible leaking cam seal.
Definitely do as Randy says and clean the internal contacts inside the coil/power stage. Probably better to do this with the original unit rather than the replacement unit. This is one of the first things to do as it costs $0.00.
If the replacement cap and rotor are non-Bosch then they are suspect right off the bat.
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223 MISSING SIGNAL FROM IAC,,NSS IS FAULTY TOO AT THE SAME TIME
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I believe the regina Coil base is a chrysler part number?? Any ideas?
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