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Completed strut and strut mount replacement 200

Hi! I though I would post my experience with this job. I have a car buddy which is wonderful because many jobs I would not want to do myself. We are both DIYers but he is the better mechanic. I only have one other car to compare. We replaced struts and strut mounts on my BMW E36 coupe which was an easier job then this. I'm sure these were the original struts and mounts on my 1993 240 wagon, 130,000 miles.
I installed the SACHS OE strut, 100261. Yes, made in Mexico, and I asked the IPD sales rep. about that. He has not seen returns or heard of problems but has had complaints when people install performance struts and that was not what they were looking for with ride quality.
We installed the KYB strut mounts. I chose those based on an internet video. A gentleman was examining several options. These mounts cost more than the struts, about $50 each if I recall correctly.
We basically followed this gentleman's guide: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/1986+1987+1988+1989+1990+1991+1992+1993+Volvo+240+Front+Struts+Replacement/7576
with some variation. We both really disliked not taking the strut assembly to the bench for spring removal and gland nut removal. Leaving the brake caliper attached and then working with it next to the car with a spring pointing straight up at whoever is holding the assembly seems scary. I also think one is more likely to bugger up the gland nut when the strut assembly is just being held by someone.
So, we removed the brake caliper, tied it up out of the way. We left the brake disc on the assembly. What we didn't like was having to open the brake line to remove it from the strut assembly. The BMW simply had a notch where you could simply pull the brake line out.
The supplied gland nut with the SACHS strut didn't work. It was a female nut and you need a male nut. The original gland nut was fairly easy to remove with penetrating spray and a pipe wrench. I suggest at least considering purchase of a gland nut that will work in the event the one you are removing gets mangled. I did not need a new bumper stop or dust cover, these were still intact.
The new strut was about 2 mm longer than the original strut so we did not get the gland nut fully threaded but had enough.
All in all, not a bad job. The first side took us 2.5 hours, the second side 1.5 hours. Certainly helps having a buddy.
I planning to get an alignment. Car rides and turns better. Cabin is quieter! Perhaps the new mounts. I did a brake bleed after this job since we opened brake lines.








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    Completed strut and strut mount replacement 200

    Good for you--and your buddy for getting the job done. I checked out the site you used and have this to say - I would not and don't separate the ball joint, leaving the lower half of the strut unsecured. I loosen the pivot bolts for the control arm and detach the sway bar and tie rod - leave the brake lines attached with the body bracket bolt removed (there's plenty of flex available) - remove the strut mount nuts and push the whole assembly past the wheel well opening. A jack stand placed under the "funnel" of the strut holds it pointed away from the car and limits to distance the brake lines need to stretch. - Dave








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      Completed strut and strut mount replacement 200

      Probably too late to say that with the struts out it's a good time to check the lower A arm bushes. Replace if there is any signs of wear. Any looseness here will affect handling, steering and ride.







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