Hello Salvador. I hope things are going well in your corner of the world.

I've looked carefully at your pic of the leak. That's certainly a familiar view, just not a familiar looking point for fluid to collect, but I wouldn't at all get too excited just yet. In fact, that pic could well be good news for you. The light through the fluid really makes it look just like plain water.

I note that the fluid appears be running down the far side of the unibody channel on the outside surface and collecting around the base of the channel drain hole, which is the forward low point on the channel.

It does not appear to be coming from inside the channel, but even if it was it could be something as simple as the owner taking it through a car wash and the water is still slowly coming out the drain hole that is often slightly plugged with a little debris.

A far more likely possibility is exactly as others suggest. It could well simply be normal condensate from the evaporator core box (buried in the console under the dash). The A/C has likely been on for extended periods. That would actually be very good news as it would suggest the A/C is still working and the evaporator box drain isn't plugged. The drain is a little black spigot mid-way down the firewall. On a turbo it's usually hidden from view behind a small aluminum heat shield on the firewall immediately behind the exhaust manifold. There may or may not be a short clear vinyl drain hose attached. Normally the condensate heads straight to the ground from the drain spigot, but I can well imagine it trickling down the firewall and along the underside of the tunnel towards that exact location on the channel. If the owner says the A/C has been running and you can't figure anything else then that's likely it. After the car has been sitting for a day or so without the A/C on then that drain shouldn't be running.

Now if you can identify it as geenish or even amber, slightly sticky sweet coolant (blot with a paper towel) then that's a slightly different story, but still not necessarily fatal.

The simplest thing to consider if it's coolant is a leak around the heater valve between the block and the firewall, trickling down the firewall, along the underside of the tunnel and down the outside of that channel to where you see it collecting. Again, you normally see this heading straight to the ground, but a small leak squirting over to the firewall could easily run down to where you see it there. This could be either a failed split heater valve (common) or a split in an old heater hose attached to it (almost as common) between the block and the heater core nipples on the firewall. After the engine has been run, you should be able to verify that leak area either visually with a good light or by blotting way down under the heater hoses with a paper towel. Replacing the heater valve and hoses is a fairly straightforward DIY project, so just factor in a few bucks for parts which are readily available in the aftermarket.

The absolute worst case I can think of is coolant coming through a rusty floor pan from a failed heater core. If it was that, I would run, not walk away from the car, but the odds of that being it are extremely remote.

IMO, 2K Euro ($2,350 USD) is not at all horrid for such a high mileage car, especially a much sought after practical turbo wagon, if it's been really well maintained and there are no other major mechanical or body/interior issues identified. Dealing with the original owner makes it even better if you find them fairly open and honest about the car's history. If it was my car to sell (and I have a '95 turbo wagon at 350,000 Km) I'd be asking at least that amount even at 500,000 Km. Such high mileage is only a red flag, not a white flag. It would be nice to have the opportunity of having a mechanic do a compression check, reading the spark plugs and doing an external visual inspection of the engine and drivetrain. With the blessing of a knowldegeable mechanic it might well be worth the original asking price, maybe even a couple of Euros more. Local demand and parts availability of course alters the equation, so your lower offer may be quite reasonable if there are no major issues identified.

Wishing you good luck.

--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi,

I took a look at the picture! That’s serious!
I wish I were more familiar with the 900 body but that leak is pretty far back from any coolant lines in the engine compartment. Leaks from in there are radiator line or the water pump.

This make me think that the leak is inside the car and under the carpets on the passenger side of the car.
I don’t know where the heater valve is located and how different the heating system is from a 240.
Pull the mats up and feel and sniff for antifreeze smell! Does the inside of the front windshield look or feel oily or smudged?
If the car is so clean, they may have polished that baby spotless!

You said the coolant tank is under pressure?
What was making that so noticeable or what does that mean to you?
In most cases the pressure is not that much and will be brief in duration, if released after an engine is shut down.

If the car had been just started and therefore has not generated any hot coolant, there’s no pressure right away. If it has then the engine most likely has a head gasket problem!
The twist on my thinking is the engine is running “Ok?” To you?
You need to check the spark plugs for any excessive cleanliness on one or more plugs? They get steam cleaned!

There is a “coolant block checker” tool that shoves onto the coolant tanks cap opening?
It holds a fluid that changes color in the presence of combustion gases passing up through the coolant.
The tool cost about $40US, but don’t invest in one as the fluid has to be kept fresh for it to work accurately!
Hunt for a shop that does lots of troubleshooting in this area and then you buy them their fluid over and over, but only once! (:-) 10-15 dollars, maybe?

I had my tool given to me for this very reason of keeping the fluid.
I have used it once on a coworkers car!
He bought the fluid, so I’m guessing on actual costs!
The in common co-employee gave me tool and of course, there must have been a string attached as he referred him to me! Today, they call it networking! (:) Know somebody, who knows somebody!

Sometimes, I think I’m just a big storage bin, as a few years ago, I found two chambers with one in a box with the instructions!

Jeez, I said to my self, how did that happen?
Forgetfulness, along with a very ENTICING Garage Sale, thats what! (:)
I have slowed down on doing that, along with many mechanics having passed on. (:(

These cars are inexpensive to maintain as mentioned in the thread!
Parts are laying around with some in package deals, that you found!
Probably why he is holding his price up!
Shop wisely or sell like he is doing!


Phil

I can understand your decision, especially if the price is going up. For some the combination of very good bodywork combined with a turbo engine may be worth taking some extra risks.

I would be very careful with a leak like that. It MAY be a clogged PCV, but it could also spell bad news for the head gasket.

I had similar pressure on the cooling system of my B200F, which turned out to be caused by the head gasket starting to fail. The engine sounded just fine nevertheless.
I was told by the mechanic that redblocks are by no means immune to head gasket failure and that turbo versions suffer more frequently than naturally aspirated ones.
Anyone interested in buying that car should be advized to determine the cause of the leak before parting with hard earned cash.