1991 240 Auto
Sat for years. No start. Replaced bad main pump. Started, but died constantly.
Removed and replaced bad tank pump, and re-soldered + wire, and gauge wire. Now it starts easily, but dies about 30 seconds later, unless you keep it running by applying foot to accellerator.
PS I dont think you can buy as good a tank pump as original equipment, I have replaced little used ones ( as in this one ) more than once.

Could be injectors stuck in varnish, regulator diaphragm, fuel filter. Nose tell you it is rich, flooding, or starved for fuel? Like Phil says, you really want to know what the rail pressure is after all that pump work. You have a clean spare set of injectors? Consider looking at the flow once you can be sure the rail pressure is right, using the OBD mode 3 activation. Lots of things you can still try.




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

My impressions of tea:

English breakfast tea - enjoy this, used it up
Lipton - leaves aftertaste
Bigelow Earl Grey - tastes like latex paint
Salada White Tea with Green - astringent hint of collard greens (where's the ham?)

maybe the CraNK POITION SENSOR??OR KNOCK SENSOR

I thought a bad cps would result in no start at all. This car idles smoothly for a while then will die without driver intervention.

Hi,
Here’s a recent story!

I had something very similar to this happen to my 1984 as it seemed to act like it was running out of gas. I was suspicious of the fuel pressure regulator, as I have changed it before, but was not all that long ago.

I got to checking the oxygen sensor’s read out and it was not responsive to practically dead?
So, I changed it out!
Its reading cam up better but it stayed low or just lean unless the throttle was raced and snapped shut. That is normal!

I got to thinking that maybe the old sensor was really bad or died from an environment of almost continuous lean fuel mixture going to it?
The Bosch systems are fast and self tuning!

I then shot a stream of propane gas straight out of a hand torch into the front of the air cleaner, while idling.
I did this by using the snorkel tube in the front of the car, that’s behind the grill.
The mixture would go rich until I took it away!
Yep, It was staying lean! No rapid changes of voltages like it should be doing!

Then it hit me, it must be a bad intake gasket leak as the IAC could not keep up with trying to “reduce” excessive air from time to time! Consequently it died?

The car would start right off when cold or die too.
Even shortly after car warmed up a little, it might drop out!
30 seconds was about the same interval that I was having!

It didn’t do it right away, every time, but still a nuisance for sure!

I replaced the gasket with a Victor-Reinz from a complete upper gasket kit.
I had an on hand stock choice!
The RPR parts company sold out and closed about ten years ago! I help him move away to Napa Valley for a couple grand is items!

The VR was a lot thicker and more substantial than a Felpro one I had stashed away before before him!
I now know why Rusty @ RPR sold what he sold!
I later have priced the Felpro and their about $5+ cheaper than the VR but oh my, there is an appreciable difference! I can actually see some edge thickness after the install!

The engine now doesn’t do any of that stuff and runs nicer or even more, than I had realized that it wasn’t!

Long story, I know, but so it was getting to where I had to go too!

I still want to silver solder on a Schrader core valve with the 1/4” flare fitting into my fuel rail.
It’s a standard refrigeration fitting with a cap as well!
It will then be like converted 1986 wagon.

I like the nineties cars, but I will put it @ about a 45 degree angle upward instead of the stupid Volvo curled way!
The FPR or other types of seepage’s can happen and you to have diagnostic access!

I Hope it gives you things to compare too, while in an observation mode! (:-)

Phil