I've had this car about three weeks, I'm an old guy and I got it as something to tinker with. It sat for about ten years in a driveway with a tarp on it. Fuel tank had been emptied, I put about five gallons of premium 100% gas in it. Guy I bought it from said he had it running for about five minutes and couldn't keep it running. When I first got it, it would hit for about a second and stall.

Cam is turning, replaced fuel pump relay, getting fuel smell in engine compartment when cranking and fuel coming out of injector rail, getting spark on number one plug (the only one I tested). Cranks good, will not start. Have not checked fuel pressure or compression, but fuel pressure seems to be strong. I blew through the vacuum line and felt good resistance on the fuel pressure regulator.

Thought it might be a crankshaft sensor until I realized it didn't have one, has a Hall Sensor, that should tell you I'm a newbie to these cars.

I have heard this could be a bad ECU--I have the yellow label one ending in 544--so I bought a used one, I'm going to trade it out to see if it makes a difference.

My thoughts/guesses:

1. Fuel injectors are not coming on live--maybe ECU or bad electrical connections, although the wiring on this car looks surprisingly good.

2. Fuel injectors are all bad--maybe from years previously of ethanol gas?

3. Sensor somewhere--have no idea which one.

4. Bad ignition control module--just because I'm guessing.

This is the first Volvo I've ever tried to tinker with--I am an aircooled VW guy and those are the easiest cars in the world to work on. Any guidance on where to start first would be very much appreciated.

You wrote:

""" It sat for about ten years in a driveway with a tarp on it. ...... Guy I bought it from said he had it running for about five minutes and couldn't keep it running. When I first got it, it would hit for about a second and stall.""""

Sitting for 10 years>>>>>>rots plastic.

Just a thought...........the Snorkel ribbed tube that runs between the Air Mass Meter and the Intake. Take it off and examine it for cracks -Put a light inside and check.

That 'may be' your problem. If you find cracks..black electrical tape can be used to seal and make it airtight. If there is major air leakage the engine will stall. The AMM tells the computer how much air is running thru and the computer uses this info to adjust the pulsing of the Injectors.

There can be No Leaks between the AMM and the Intake.

Image
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/r5gAAOSwi3NgW57w/s-l400.jpg

Thanks for the note on the AMM. I had already thought of that as a possibility, the snorkel looks pretty good but I'll recheck it with a light.

I did check resistance on my AMM with a multimeter and got 3.9 ohms, my Haynes manual tells me that is within spec.

BTW, I'm scared to touch that AMM, all I see is how delicate they are, they are awkward the way they are mounted and if I screw this one up even a decent quality aftermarket one isn't cheap.

I didn't mention the AMM as you were already pursing the fuel path. One thing at a time.

AMMs 'go bad' with numerous symptoms. And as jwalker noted--the big AMM killer is that they can get cooked.

The classic AMM Test, for a non starting engine, is to put it in the Limp-Home-Mode.
The LH system ECU has a Default Mode.
To put the ECU into the Default Mode:

******** Engine OFF. and as Art says: KEY-IN_POCKET
**Disconnect the harness plug on the AMM
**Then try to start the engine--if it runs, suspect a bad (or Cooked) AMM.

Thoughtful Bosch engineers.
So if the AMM fails, you can still get the car started and drive/limp it home.

The Volvo Problem Solver.


Re: fuel system cleaning.
You may not know about BG 44K.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/

Don’t drop the AMM and you’ll be fine…:)
Main thing with those is to not overheat them. Make sure the air filter box thermostat is working or the hole for it is sealed. The pollution control hose from the exhaust manifold attaches to the air filter box at the thermostat. If the thermostat dies open the heat from the exhaust can fry your AMM. My 90 240 still had its original AMM at 300k miles when I sold it.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Was the 1987 known for desintegrating engine harness as all 240 were since 1981 ?

85-87 are the yrs and not all 87s have the issue .

No intend to contradict you here but 1981 and 1982 should be included. I still own the 1982 B21a and had to re-wire the engine harness when it was about 20 years.

Had to do the same work on the 1981 after I gave it to my son. The starter engaged while he was crossing a bridge at 30 mph. Scary noise he said.

He did pull out the solenoid wire as soon as he could find a parking place and we found all that rotten wire mess under the harness envelope.

Roland,
1980 and up - that is when they revised the block connector at the firewall and went to the disentegrating engine harnesses. Prior to that they used excellent, non biodegradable wiring. The cut off point is about mid 1987 , I've seen a number of late 1987 cars with the good non biodegradable wiring that were later production run. I did not know about the earlier yrs.
My 87 falls in the latter as its pristine still.

Great book to have
Volvo Problem Solver Advanced Repair Manual 1962-1994 Models.PDF

Go Here:
https://ozvolvo.org/archive/

Type in the Search Box---Exactly

Volvo_Problem_Solver

You probably won't have to type more than Volvo_Problem....DownLoad the PDF


NB: The search box entry Needs to have the Underscore _ between each word to find this file.

Though I've known of its existence for maybe 20 years, I never went through it beginning to end until reading one of your posts suggesting it a couple weeks ago. It really does a terrific job of helping with the sort of puzzles that can stump experienced professionals.

Between the Problem Solver and the parts collection in Atlanta, all the older 240s have a chance of surviving if the rust doesn't get to them first.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Why do some think it’s sexist that manslaughter is illegal?
Well if women can laugh, why can’t men?

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I bought the book sometime in the 1990s, when I was running the 75 B20 245 and the 80 sedan.

I had two Haynes books. That was all that was out there.

The Problem Solver was worth the 65 bucks.
Several people dismissed it as too basis. BUT there were 2 versions offered by IPD...a cheaper version 'for home use'.

I got mine from RPR, which only sold the 'Professional' one.

Sort of like Windows Home Edition vs Windows Pro...but not quite.

Back then, when it was being published, the price of the book included a subscription. You were sent Updates---New Pages, as new models/problems came out.

Your making me have flashbacks of pre-internet days there, Charlie! Clearly other oldsters out there who've also never found a cure for this Volvo sickness we have, so sad.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Find the vacuum hose that adjusts the fuel pressure regulator. First, key in your pocket, pull it off of the regulator. Look and sniff. It should be dry, but a rotted diaphragm will allow fuel to be pulled directly into the manifold, flooding the car.

If it is dry, put it back on and pull the other end off of the nipple on the manifold. Squirt something flammable into the nipple (starting fluid is one suggestion) and verify the spark and compression is OK when it runs briefly.

Then, I'd pull the injectors and swap in some known clean ones. Pretty easy to plug those little spaces with gummy varnish.



Photo shows later version fuel system.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"When they tell me I'm too old to do something, I attempt it immediately." -Pablo Picasso

Well, here's the progress: Fuel pressure regulator seems dry and doesn't smell rotten. Put some starter fluid in it and it hits but of course quits just about immediately.

THEN, I pulled the injection rail and the injectors. I think I found the culprit. The ends of the injectors are completely coated with gummy residue. Some are so bad you can't even make out the sprayer jet outlet. (Art it looks like you were spot on).

I took the rail outside and some "fuel" spilled out of it. It's full of black gummy stuff that does not mix with the gas. It looks and feels like molasses.

I'm wondering if I can get these injectors clean enough. That whole fuel rail and maybe the whole fuel system is going to need a good purge.

Hi

Yep, what you found is dead skin cells!
Rotten and decomposed dinosaur hide!
If you believe that all the oil we use came from one source of mammals alone, think again, about biodegradable plant matter over years and years of nice cosmic incubation!

Earth is a big clump and we are all part of it!

You are getting a boat load of information on how to to fix this thing but your intuitions are definitely going to pull you through!

Just keep following the clanking of those wrenches and you will hear the sound of a Volvo revived!

Phil

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

On the "claim to be" I have registered but for some reason the forum doesn't want to let me in, I have sent a message to get that fixed and hopefully I can be more official. I want to do that because I think I'm going to be here quite a bit over the next few months.

On the fuel pump, it may sound silly but I tried it both ways with the key and jumping 4 and 6 fuses, both work just fine. Getting a good squirt out of the fuel rail.

I'm going to try your suggestion first Art to see if it makes a difference. I'm just convinced there can't be that much wrong with this car, and the injectors or the fuel pressure regulator are the logical next steps. If the regulator is OK, I may do is just remove the fuel rail and give it and the injectors a good dunk in some Lucas injector cleaner and then test one to see if I'm getting spray and what the pattern looks like.

Any suggestions as to which injectors I should get if I have to replace some of them? Some of the aftermarket stuff is OK and some is garbage, I've seen what OEM injectors cost and I really hope I don't have to go there, but if it's worth it, it's worth it.

BTW, I've got a Bentley manual on the way, should be here by Monday.

Art's post below ---the Gerhardt Problem Solver---is the one I linked to at the OZ website --- The Aussie Volvo Club (hence OZ)

Download it and Print it out and you can have it in your hands Now. For 'solving' problems it's way better than the Bentley.
It used to sell for $65---back in the 90's ---but is out of print.

It's a comprehensive set of practical solutions collected from actual working Volvo Techs, edited and published by Gerhardt for Volvo mechanics to help them deal successfully solving their customers problems.

Regarding a parts source + help. Art referenced the Atlanta boys.
Here is the web/contact info---call-email them. They know their stuff.
Voluparts- Atlanta Ga.

http://www.voluparts.com/


PS. I have an 87 245 that I bought used in 1997, as well as an 80 244. My first- a 75 245 rusted beyond safe use.

Before the days of the brickboard (and some flame trap idiot, hehe), the Problem Solver was my K-Jet bible. They were advertised in the IPD quarterly catalogues and bi-monthly newsletters -other great resources before the internet. Price I see in the catalogues I just dug out is $69.95 for the Advanced Edition. Once in a while they included a bonus VHS tape (reg $25) which I also probably still have hiding somewhere -wasn't overly useful. Gerhardt used to send out update pages to buyers for one year. There were a couple of final updates after the version in the OzVolvo archive before it went out of publication. Nothing earth shattering as I recall, but one of these days when I have a spare moment I'll dig it out and scan the updates to post here. Unfortunately I've still got some long overdue maintenance on my 940s I need to get to first.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

I'm realizing I still think like I can zip on down to a local self-serve auto graveyard and pluck injectors from one of many 240's still unpicked-over, or more close to the truth, dig in my junk box for them.

If you can't find some cheap ones to swap in, you might try your hand at running cleaner through them under pressure. I haven't done it myself, so I can't be specific about how to activate them safely and what flammable liquid cleaners you might use.

Or consider the many offers on line to clean them. Again, I haven't any suggestions there.

But to test those you have, you can pull the rail and rig a 9V battery to a spare connector (don't switch it at the injector, but well out of the range of fuel) using the residual pressure after briefly running the pumps and then shutting everything off. The later LH2.4 FI has a diagnostic mode to do all that for you, but yours needs more hands-on. The object is to see for sure if they are plugged. Fool with them enough and they might just start squirting that 100% gasoline you put in. (We can't buy that easily here except in cans for small engines.)

A 'noid light will confirm you have the pulse from the fuel computer, but of course that will only occur with the aid of a working ignition primary. Bentley will spell out the differences among the FI schemes.

I'm just focused on the injectors because you said it was sitting.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

How come nothing rhymes with orange?
What? Nothing doesn’t rhyme with orange?

Hi,

I’m a 240 man and I can appreciate anyone who can tolerate working on an air cooled VW!
You are just like I was when I tolerated Harley Davidsons!
We are both old as they are and like to be simplistic in our ways.

A 240 is a step forward as they are more refined and are still built on good basic engineering.
They used a lot of Bosch thinking along with keeping maintenance on the inexpensive side.
Going water cooled and not having to keep resetting the valves are the two things that you are going to like. I also will add, it has a whole lot better cabin heater and window defroster!

10 years under a tarp is not good for anything and anyone who could do that to any vehicle should have been taken out back behind a wood shed and taught how to say a few words that would make a sailor blush!

I thought the remark about the wiring, while talking about injectors, was interesting: “maybe ECU or bad electrical connections, although the wiring on this car looks surprisingly good.”
The mid eighties cars suffered biodegradable wiring harnesses around or under the engine.
Maybe, that issue was addressed over the years and it was replaced or at least cut open and repaired.

You are going to have to keep your wits about and concentrate on the very basics of getting the three sides of the combustion triangle fixed before working about the ECU.
The ICU under the hood that puts out spark commands can have wiring issues if someone messed with the connector on it. Thank Chrysler’s engineering for that boondoggle!
If you have spark, then it might not be a problem at all!

Ten years old gas is a greater issue along with verifying timing and compression is next!
It’s got a rubber timing belt!

When or how did you get the fuel pressure up? Are you jumping out the fuel system relay or what?
Are you familiar with a BB enthusiasts repair site called, Cleanflametrap. Com?
There is a world of pictures and information on 240s out there and the owner/author still haunts the BRICKBOARD on occasions!
There are several of us BRICKSTERS that have a wealth of knowledge on these cars or mechanics in general! The term “Brick” is used to describe the cars recent shape and toughness over many many years.
Amazon is another!
In Sweden, the term Tractor comes about?
Oh! And the man shoe puts in the starter motor bolts in so tightly, from the factory, is “Sven the Swede,” He must have big arms!
If yours has never been out of the car, your in for a real treat!

I will suggest that you look into signing up with a profile. “Claiming to be some one” has a tendency to say, you are not committed to investing the time into your car and the forum.
From your post you’re gonna need assistance to polish this baby up to running nicely!
Someone is going to ask how many miles are on it? You see, it happened! (:-)

You only have to put information on there as you are comfortable with and only others that are signed on can access anything that you write.
Any communication is done through the postings of threads or the site. No direct emails. All are only from the site to you.

If you like what you see here, as you go, you will notice GREEN subscribing labels on members. Those are the die hards or old time users!
ITS like a “support your local sheriff thing,” that lets us show appreciation for the forum.
It’s a $5 or $10 magazine subscription for me a month.
I stopped doing those because of lousy journalism in a snail mailed, thin reading rag, or get referenced onto a web site to continue with a blip!
This is better time and money spent for worthiness or entertainment!
To use your words, It’s like something to Tinker with! (:-)

Having yourself a profile is free but it helps us to know your locality for a sense of knowing what kind of conditions has the car been subjected too!
Salt, snow excessive sun, you name it!

Someone on here might be a local to you and things can grow from there, as you like.
No pressure, as it’s Mostly about sharing information on keeping or getting things running.
A World Wide HOBBY that’s INTERCONTINENTAL, literally!

Did I say, Welcome to the Brickboard! (:-)

Phil

For what it's worth,a couple years ago I bought a '79 244 which had sat for 10 years. It would start part of the time, & run but just barely. After 2 experienced mechanics couldn't cure it's problems, I took matters into my own hands & converted it to simple 2 barrel carburetor, and switched the ignition module to a GM type. It ran great.

I posted this a few months ago when you suggested a carb convert.
You again offer this as a possible solution.
The LH2.2 would present the Same Challenge to this conversion as it would with the later LH 2.4.

You really shouldn't offer this suggestion to a New to the Volvo 240--poster
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

My response to your previous post:
https://brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1681044/220/240/260/280/92_240_hard_start_lh_31.html

"A '79 I bought a couple years ago"--
"Actually the carb conversion is relatively simple and inexpensive. "

FWIW
a 79 with a K-Jet mechanical FI, Bosch Electronic Ignition System (basically a step above points-n-condensor) and No computer is a very different animal compared to a 92 or an 87 with Electronic FI, a computer controlled ignition ..........
The ECU is the 'brain' that will look for that LH fuel system...a system that Pulses the fuel injectors.

The K-Jet constantly streams the fuel--the amt is in realtion to the pressure measured out K-Jet system. More advanced than a Carburator, but basically the same idea.....When it comes to how involved it is to get the engine to function...when you turn the Key to Start---and then back to the Run position.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++