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Update on 87 245 200 1987

About a month ago I posted about this car and received a lot of good advice on the 245. The one thing I learned is that I needed to go to "basics" on the car, especially the fuel system and the fuel tank. I removed the fuel rail and found out that all of the injectors were clogged beyond recovery, at least with any tools that I have. Four new ones are on the way (delay for back order) and a new pressure regulator (while I've got it off might as well), I've cleaned the rail with Gumout until it ran clear all through it and scrubbed it with a brass brush. Very varnished.

All that varnish was coming from somewhere. The guy I bought it from said it ran for him for about five minutes and then wouldn't run anymore. I think that the entire fuel system was coated in varnish and when he started it, it got sucked through the whole system all the way up to the injectors. Last Saturday I drained the tank and dropped it from the car. The gas in it was the color of black coffee. There is about an inch and a half of "molasses" in the bottom of the tank. The sending unit was completely disintegrated, the in tank filter was hard as a rock, and the in tank pump was missing completely. I've got all those parts and a new main pump and filter from IPD.

The tank is either going to have to be "boiled out" or replaced.

I believe that if I can get the fuel system completely cleaned this car will start and run. My concern are the fuel lines. I have heard that they are NLA from Volvo or aftermarket, that I need to carefully remove the end fittings from the lines and then shrink wrap them to new fuel line.

If anyone can give any advice or information it would be appreciated:

1. Fuel line--from tank and return line--what size (interior and exterior diameter) and what pressure tolerance do I need for each? (I know I could measure this myself when I get them off but I'd feel more confident if someone who has done this can confirm).

2. Any suggestions on cutting out the old fittings and heat shrinking them to the new line?

3. The one radiator shop has priced $300 to $350 for cleaning the tank with acid and resealing it. IPD has a Volvo OEM tank for @400, can get aftermaket from Advanced for @310. Has anyone had any experience with these aftermaket tanks?

Thanks again for everyone's help. It may not seem like it but I'm having fun with this.








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    Several years ago I cleaned the inside of a gas tank by using my riding lawn mower. I put the mower up on jack-stands, tied the tank to one of the rear wheels, poured a small bucket full of gravel into the tank, put the gas cap on and started the mower, put it in low gear and let it run for a while. Rather noisy, but did a good job.



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      Just get a New tank. "Rust never sleep". Pin holes always weep. I did the same thing for my wifes 1957 Volvo PV
      444. Someone had tried.cleaning and sealing the old tank. Rust awakened inside the repair and crusted the whole tank. You'll smile alot longer with a new tank.💙👣



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    I used to occasionally pick up cars of various breeds that had been sitting for years. The tanks would be rusty. I would remove the tanks and feed a length of chain into them along with solvent before sealing them up.

    I would then tip and roll the tank over a period of days before dumping the contents into a container. Then a series of rinses before letting it dry completely- as in no chance of any moisture remaining inside.

    At the time I used a gas tank sealer from Hirsch Auto. It was similar to contact cement. I put a quart in the dry tank and then sealed it up again. Then the tipping and rolling routine started again until I felt the entire inside surface was coated. Then it was just the task of draining the remaining sealer and allowing the material to set up.

    https://www.hirschauto.com/ALCOHOL-RESISTANT-GAS-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/GTS/

    In the years that have passed since I was doing this the products have probably improved and there are more suppliers as is evidenced by a search of "gas tank sealer"

    Randy
    --
    Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal



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    If I posted this earlier, here it is again.
    Esp since you are looking for fuel lines and a fuel tank.
    They probably have a set of 'used' injectors and a pressure regulator.


    email or call these guys in Atlanta

    http://www.voluparts.com/



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      Thanks for all of the replies. I took the advice and called the Atlanta guys and they can set me up with an aftermarket tank for about $250 and a lot of other stuff I'm going to need, too. I've ordered online from them but that was the first time I've ever called them, very pleasant and helpful and knew what they were talking about. I'm about a three hour drive from there so I'm probably just going to take a trip down there with a list of stuff I need. Making the trip and just getting the stuff is probably going to save me shipping costs and a heck of a lot of time in waiting for parts to come.

      Cleaning that old tank is just too labor intensive and messy if there is an affordable alternative, and I don't know for sure what condition it's in under that varnish, or what damage I'll do to it filling it with chain, gravel, or nuts and bolts and rolling it around. Go with a new one and it's done and I shouldn't have to worry about it anymore.



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        glad it worked out.

        back in 240/Pre 240 days...before the Net, you called and talked and got advice or corrections to your diagnosis.

        Rusty at RPR Oakland Cali
        Any of those IPD--I drive a 240--who answered the phone...and the valuable monthly newsletter
        Locally---Hat Tip to the parts desk at Michaelson Motors, Reisterstown MD
        Don Beyer Volvo in Va, Don ran for Governator of Va.

        Many more SAAB-VOLVO Mechanics---gone but not......

        Atlanta---support them. They are the last of the breed.




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