Dear Metallo,

I would loosen those two banjo bolts underneath the steering rack to drain the fluid away (into a drain pan of course). Key word here is "loosen" meaning not to take them out. All bolts and copper washers are still in place so that no missing parts later. Blow some air into the reservoir opening to push more fluid out. Steer the wheels (easier to do with the front jacked up) to let more fluid out. Retighten the bolts after draining all fluid. This way the system is almost dry.

No nasty surprises of fluid spilling on floor or front engine pan while doing your repair.

Do the same if you want to flush old steering fluid out. No more turkey baster method.

Amarin.

Dear Metallo,

Hope you're well and stay so. You can use a turkey baster - a plastic tube with a rubber suction bulb - to empty the power steering reservoir, before you remove the return hose. That will make the job way easier.

Once you remove the hose from the reservoir, raise the hose's end, so it is above the reservoir. Then put that end of the hose in a plastic bag, and rubber-band it tightly, about four inches from the end, where you sliced the hose to remove it.

When you lower the bag-covered hose-end to the ground (and so below the pump), fluid in the hose will drain into the plastic bag. You can then dispose of the fluid at a re-cycling center. If there is none near you, some auto parts stores will accept used fluid for re-cycling.

When you have replaced the hose, re-fill the reservoir with Synthetic ATF (automatic transmission fluid), which is the same as power steering fluid.

Turn-on the engine and top-up the power steering fluid reservoir. Then, with the engine running, turn wheels from side to side, a couple of times. This "bleeding process" allows any air in the system to rise to the reservoir and exit the system. Add ATF, if needed, until the reservoir's "dip-stick" shows the reservoir is "full".

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

"Spook"