I have a 1978 244, and I thought I had a bad inner tie rod, but upon taking the outer end loose, it wasn't the tie rod, but a massive amount of play in the steering rack on that side.

I have several parts 240's, but all of these have the ZF power steering racks. It doesn't look like I am going to have any luck finding a manual cam type rack.

Does anyone have any experience in changing over these racks, or suggestions?

Where are you located?
How soon do you need to replace the manual rack.
Is it a 'when I get to it'

I'm in MD.

ps: I drove my Power steering equipped 87 wagon for a bit waiting parts with the belt OFF --- pain in the aaaa,

Posted about this a while ago....
w/pics---showing the circumference of the steering wheel in Older Manual equipped 240s and the post 86 power steering wheels.

In both my manual 240s I never felt that it was tough to parallel park, though I rarely have to do that in my day-to-day, these days.

Your reply to Q 1 is the pivot.---I've got a hulk 240/1975 w/Manual steering that will be going to the """Yard""" this spring. If you are near, I may check out how hard it would be to rip out the rack.

Either way....Cheers.

Does the ZF rack bolt up the same as the Cam rack, or will I need a kit?

I'm assuming that I will also need to add the power steering pump, since I will be going from a manual rack to a power rack.

I misunderstood you a bit but it doesn't matter. I did not realize your CAM rack was manual although you did mention expecting difficulty in finding a manual rack--I didn't make the connection. In any case--you can drive with a P/S rack and not have the power hooked up. It will not be fun parallel parking but OK drive-able on the road. As for mounting a rack--each rack type has all the hardware it needs right there--it's all transferable. If you want the steering to be P/S -- yes, you'll need to mount the pump - and any external reservoir (if the p/s pump is a ZF). The Delco (not sure that's what it's called) type pump has the reservoir built in. -- Dave

It's no peach to parallel park with the manual cam rack anyway. So if I don't want to use the power steering pump, I would just plug off the fluid lines on the ZF steering rack? Thanks for the info.

The power steering cars come with positive caster ball joints. I wonder how the car will hold the road with a power rack swapped in, assisted or not? No experience to contribute, just wondering.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Bakers trade bread recipes on a knead to know basis.

The positive caster ball joints were made possible by P/S. The heavier steering of a car with positive caster is compensated for by the P/S. I would imagine the straight line stability of his non - +caster suspension will remain as before--but with a bit more sensitivity due to the power assist. If it is more than the owner would like after making P/S work he always has the option of replacing his ball joints with those meant for a P/S car--they are a direct replacement--but would require, at least, a check of the alignment, especially for toe-in. -- Dave

Since you have these parts cars with complete systems there shouldn't be any particular problem switching over as far as I know. Rock Auto's parts listings aren't infallible but they do provide a quick and easy way to compare parts numbers. I'm pretty sure the inner tie rods will be different but the outers should be the same. Loosen or remove the pinch bolts on the steering shaft and apply generous amounts of penetrating oil. I use a wedge shaped tool to spread the ends of the steering shaft slightly -- it may take striking with a hammer and shaft (the Volvo hubcap tool works just fine) to get the connection started moving but I've always been able to separate the pieces. Don't despair. -- Dave