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Hi,
The spark plugs will not show coolant on them, per say, but one cylinder will have the cleanest plug like in shiny clean with some slight tinge from coolant inhibitors.
I cannot say that having a bad sensor will cause it to run sooty black on the plugs.
A cold running engine temperature will trigger rich looking plugs through.
With that ,you also get and keep wetter exhaust pipes longer!
I think you live in the upper Northeast and hasn’t it been colder there? Even Texas is colder than normal.
I would do an infrared scan of your coolant thermostat connection and radiator top.
You can scan the exhaust header and on back to follow how much heat is making it to a rear resonator.
If you are losing coolant then I would do a cold engine air pressure test on the cooling system.
Push it up close to the radiator cap pressure setting with a gauge while over a dry spot under the car. I imagine less than nine pounds will work. It should hold a steady pressure for a long time too!
If you suspect a leak into the combustion chamber there is a block tester kit for that.
It looks for gases coming up, into a flask above the recovery tank, with an agent that reacts to the exhaust gases.
The tester creates a slight vacuum above the coolant reservoir/radiator or the systems highest point.
The Gases, like air, rises!
I’m not a fan of these sealants either as most rely on having contact with air outside the engine or heating lines before the chemicals can coagulate.
What might happen inside the system that has air in it already then guess what you end up with possible miniature globs of a gel like substance everywhere. This is what they hope to plug a leak with.
I won’t say these don’t work because, in the eighties, GM installed STOP-LEAK pre-mixed in with their early Dex-Cool formulas IN all vehicles coming off the assembly lines.
It was a routine way to get them off the line and stored in holding lots before being transported.
It was their backup method in case parts didn’t get quite fitted good enough in the time allotted.
The stuff sat in the systems there, doing its thing while waiting with only short periods of running to move them. No pressure, so, less leaks on the highway or in train cars!
GM used or abused their dealerships and that started the allowances of Dealer preparation fees tagged along with a destination fee and so on, with authorized dealer latitudes.
In 1974 I saw Chevrolets Wagons with rubber trim and headliners hanging down right on dealer lots!
Open the rear door to see the parts and screws laying on the rear deck!
Made me worry about the other, more complicated end!
My brother-in-law bought a Mercury because before that, he bought a Chevrolet Vega! That’s why I was there!
So a later story of coolant mixtures, doesn’t surprise me!
I see it now as, If they got away with something cheaper, then Chrysler and Ford would try it! Ford seems to be the last one but could do weird things!
Chrysler and their “K” car bodies, now that was an even push!
GM played or still plays the number odds all the time! Why not, they are also the GMAC that sells insurance!
So Depending on How long the additive worked, it might make it past it’s 18 or to 24,000 power train only warranties, when Volvos were touting, 36,000 bumper to bumper in 1986.
I have noticed with most snakes elixirs, the length of time it claims to last is very vague or nonexistent!
I Hope you find your cause to be inexpensive!
Cheap, isn’t much of a realistic term as it use to be!
(:-)
Phil
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