The relay is the least likely suspect here. It is invulnerable to everything but water.
Most likely is the car has no ignition. Spark must be made before the ECU will activate that relay. Use a bit of starter fluid or what have you in spray flammable to make sure you have ignition before troubleshooting the fuel pump. Does the car run when you bypass the relay or just the pump? Easy bypass is to jumper fuse 5 to 7. Note, fuse 7 does nothing in this car, but it has battery on it.
Next most likely is the fuel system fuse under the hood. Not the fuse itself, but the socket for it. You might see power getting to the relay through this red wire when there is no load if you're using a small test lamp or meter and still the corrosion at the blade fuse won't allow it to run the full load of the pump. Check this easily by turning the key on and checking for power at the orange wire going to the AMM. No power? The problem is in that red wire and blade fuse holder.
Before ordering a relay replacement, make sure the ECU is trying to activate the relay. The ECU supplies a ground to the yellow/red wire going to pin 85 when it sees ignition pulses at the coil primary. No, the pin 87a is not used.
This map is actually for the '83, but the only difference is the fuse #12 got moved to fuse #13 in '84. If you're fighting a no-start, be sure to roll fuse 13 before doing anything involved.

A grenade thrown into a kitchen in France would result in Linoleum Blownapart.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
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