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Driveline questions 700 1990

posted by  Will740turbo on  Sat Apr 30 01:51 CST 2022
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last visit: Wed Oct 22 16:09 CST 2014
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1990 740GL with AW-70L and (I think) 4.10 rear end

A few weeks ago, I told someone I had an easy time changing my center driveshaft bearing. Apparently I had an exceptionally easy time with the last one because the current one is a bear!

I stopped myself from damaging the shaft (cough cough much) and am going to take it to a driveline shop to fix it right. I'm going to spring for new u-joints too because at 223k, these appear to be original and have the shaft balanced. Once that's done, I might have them check the differential condition.

Hopefully my new plate and registration stickers will be here by then....

Then it needs front struts, sunroof seal, un-messing up the fuel filter plumbing, and replacing the blower motor and I will feel god enough driving it to put a for sale sign on the Honda I have been driving for 5 years. When the Honda is gone, I will get cracking on my real project - the 89 745 that I rebuilt a 1994 "squirter" L-block b230ft for.

My big questions

1) Do I need to take the flanges in with the shaft to be balanced? I think I did last time.

2) What what the idea with these flange bolts? It's basically impossible to remove them without pounding the u-joints out first. The transmission output flange's conical portion on the side with the lock nuts makes it impossible to turn any wrench put on them. I think I replaced mine with internal-hex-head bolts last time I had to do this so that they can be removed without removing/destroying the u-joints.

2b) What size are the flange bolts? M8?




The following is just so that this number comes up somewhere on the internet... lol. I literally could not find any search results for this number at all.

Just an FYI, the bearing carrier I have is marked SPICER 211425 - 1X CR 2 and it is not anything listed anywhere on Spicer's (very poor) website. That particular carrier is different from the replacements, but not functionally. It has a roughly 5" long 4-5" diameter steel sleeve (think soup/bean can size) that I guess is a water/mud shield for the splined slip potion of the shaft as well as a metal dust/rock shield that's integrated into the front (as installed). It would be nice to find one like this, but I couldn't find hide nor hair of it existing much less a matching replacement.


This carrier holds the 60072rsj bearing type that is 35mm ID and 62mm OD. It goes both on the smallest 1.75" shafts and some later shafts with the 8" distance between bearing and center u-joint.

Pulling from the IPD website, the cross-reference numbers are 1209820, 42753010500, 42753010803, 5141209820, 77430030 - https://www.ipdusa.com/products/21207/Drive-Shaft-Center-Support-700-900-small-for-Volvo-Aftermarket-VR167-1209820-246673 and https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5853/Driveline-Driveshaft-Center-Support-Carrier-Mount-Bearing-Kit-for-Volvo-Aftermarket-4K9820-106741







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    Driveline questions 700 1990

    posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Sat Apr 30 07:23 CST 2022
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    last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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    If you are referring to the transmission output flange and differential flange as far as balance goes - no - you do not include them for balance. If you have a question about the current balance be sure, on disassembly, that the front and rear sections are currently in "phase" with each other. That means (on a multi-section driveshaft) that when the U-joint at the front - with the part attached to the transmission flange - is horizontal - the U-joint at the rear has the part attached to the diff flange is in a vertical position. As though, if combined, would form one complete U-joint. A driveshaft shop which works on truck multi-section shafts would know this.
    Although not important one way or another I think your belief that the rear has a 4.10 to 1 ratio. I believe only the twin cam motors attached to ZF transmissions has that ratio. More likely yours is a 3.73. That can be checked easily with the car jacked up in the rear with one wheel on the ground. Mark the free tire and the driveshaft. Turn the free wheel one complete turn and count the turns of the driveshaft. Multiply that number by 2 will give you the ration. My guess is that one turn of the wheel will result in a bit LESS than 2 turns of the driveshaft. - Dave







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