Ive been having start problems for 2 mos now,,It had been RSR relay by battery,,& then I bought a junker relay harness& soldered that in & it seemed to work night i figured out that when the intake hose was off,it started right up..!!
after only a year the crap air filter I got from FCP was garbage,,& BLOCKED AIR FLOW!!
Its Regina & since I can get it started some times I think the Power stage & coil work,,Everything else is about a year maybe 2 yrs old??all vac lines are in place,,

I finally realized what started all my problems.FCP sells junk exhaust parts! The front muffler hanger & other hangers I ve gotten are rusting crap that fall apart .because the muffler hanger fell a part extra stress was put on the clamp thAT SECURED THE HEAder to the cat,,then extra air got in & computer compensated w extra gas that caused the cat to clog & give a raft of other problems!!

Dear Blindboy,

Yes I too would put the culprit on the U-shaped header hanger

That entire exhaust piping from header to rear muffler is really heavy!

I had missing header hanger, its just not there on the car when I got it from previous owner

I didn't realize the importance of that U-shaped header hanger hanging from the transmission

I had to use 2 exhaust gaskets with copper sealant on the header mating's plate (the one with 3 bolts) because it was warped from years of overtightening

Luckily the cat converter was long gone from the car so I didn't have any clogged cat to deal with. For this car model the O2 sensor's location was at the end of header pipe, so cat was easily replaced with silencer (welded in place of cat)

In the end I had to resort to getting new header, gaskets and U-shaped hanger to cure my chronic leaking header-exhaust manifold joint

Amarin

Hi Amarin,

Would you please elaborate about how the 940 runs after the cat modification?

>Luckily the cat converter was long gone from the car so I didn't have any clogged cat to deal with. For this car model the O2 sensor's location was at the end of header pipe, so cat was easily replaced with silencer (welded in place of cat)

Is the silencer a muffler or a hunk of exhaust pipe?
What changes, if any, to performance? gas mileage?

Any new LED's of interest there?

Thanks, Bill

Could I get the part number of the U shaped hanger and clamps please? I checked my daughters 1995 940 and see that there is no hanger.
Thank you
--
Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running

The u-shaped hanger was missing on my 90 240 when I bought it. Finally replaced it when I bought a new downpipe. Good idea to replace it. You will notice less vibration in the exhaust.

Finally got it to start by taking the O2 sensor out ,,,,the Cat is blocked!!


1 more thing,,IAC valves are still avaliable,,,look here,s: Fuel Injection Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve For VW Volkswagen Jetta Golf EuroVan #223550043242
regina ssystem iac is same as a Jetta IAC

Dear Blindboy,

Hope you're well and stay so. Does this aftermarket Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) work smoothly in a '93-95 Volvo 940, with Rex-Regine engine/ignition management? Have you bought one of these IACVs and installed it?

If this aftermarket part indeed is an exact replacement for the Volvo/Siemens part, then this is quite a "find"!

Even if it is not as durable as is the Volvo/OEM part, its low price allows purchase of a "back-up" unit.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

the IAC I got off ebay for modern Vws works fine to replace the IAC for regina volvos//

I bought 1 installed itt& it works

Hello Peter,
It has been many years since I bought a used Regina in tank pump, float, and all from you...started said car today...1990 744 Regina. All of the other replies to your problem have been sound and for the most part applicable to check, test, repair, and rule out. I might extend to you to test, examine the MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor) associated with the Regina System. From what you have described in this post...may help.
Regards,
Paul (aka VTV745T) in Vermont

thanks,,Last night as I was thinking of the symptoms & what it could be,,,It hit me Clogged Cat!!ser vice light came on 3 months ago & I replaced oxy sensor!!
Before that the carbon was coming out the tail pipe!
This happened on a 745 I had back in 2007 same thing oxy sensor was left out by a muffler shop when they changed the header,,
I wonder if alcohol coule be used to flush the carbon out of a cat,,,??
I left it at a shop & I told the mechanic & hes gonna put it on the rack & take the sensor out & see if it starts~~2!?!?

Dear Blindboy,

Hope you're well and stay so. The soot deposited on the surface of the catalytic converter (cat) likely contains some un-burned gasoline, which bonds the soot to the rough surface of the converter's core.

A highly-polar solvent, e.g., Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) might help to flush-out the soot. But MEK is very flammable and carcinogenic: gloves and lots of ventilation needed.

The cat will have to plugged at both ends, while the MEK works on the soot. So, the cat will have to be removed, one end plugged, and the MEK poured-in and the open end plugged tightly. Let the cat sit overnight. If the MEK is jet black when poured into a steel or plastic pail, then the soot has been removed. I'd repeat, to be sure. If the MEK is still clear, then it has not removed any soot.

Another possible way to remove the soot, is to heat the convertor in an oven. Ideally, if you had an old kitchen stove, with a self-clean (NOT continuous clean) feature, put the catalytic convertor in the oven and run the oven through the self-clean cycle. Temps rise to a tad over 900 degrees. That should cause the soot to "vaporize", i.e., to be converted into carbon dioxide.

I've never tried either of these methods, so do not know if they'll work. But the cost of trying them is low. If they fail, the cat sill has considerable salvage value, as the Platinum and/or Rhodium will remain.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

thanks..I found a new cat on ebay for $120,,,,!!! so Ill return the cat to fcp..

added new ignition module
It rans smooth for 20 mins..& then while idling it died,Then I waited 30 mins it cooled down & i was able to restart it...

Heat problem - old electronics can fail when they get hot and aren’t predictable. My money is on the fuel pump relay. If it's the original (29 years old) you are overdue for replacement anyway....

--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Relay is fine,The WIRING leading to it needs to be replaced.
The nain problem was a broken muffler support from F[Crap]P
That split the Cat/header connection that caused the 02 sensor to flood system w extra gas that clogged the cat!!!
last time I buy cheap parts from FCrapP

>last time I buy cheap parts from FCrapP

To be fair I think it should be pointed out that all parts suppliers offer the parts that are available at any given time. I know you realize that the parts for our old RWD Volvos are getting harder and harder to source. With dwindling demand the manufacturers producing the parts we need probably aren't using the best materials and labor. In your situation only you can determine why the hanger failed as installed.

I've used FCP Euro for a very long time. Overall I have been happy with the relationship. Errors seldom occur on orders and when they do they are accessible and quick to make things right. Their return policy is fast and efficient and the lifetime guarantee on most parts is hard to beat. I'm sure you are aware of how shipping costs factor into the cost of maintaining our cars so I am particularly happy with the offer of free shipping on orders over $50.
--
Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Good to know that about FCP. I’ll keep it in mind. I’ve had very good luck with them overall through the years. One exception was the rubber boots on the inner tie rods for my 90 240. They were almost impossible to secure - cheap aftermarket crap!

A few months ago I bought engine and cabin air filters for my 2017 VW Alltrack from FCP. Fit perfectly and way cheaper than the dealer.
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

I ve been able to drive for 15-20 mins w no shutdown.But occasionally I will hear what sounds like A can being banged?THEN A SLOWDOWN?
Finally got a replacement air filter.I always though they were to last 30,000 miles??
tops this one may have 10,000 & hardly dirty at all yet It stopped the engine from firing?

Dear Blindboy,

Hope you're well and stay so. The failed air filter might have been made with the wrong type of filter paper, so it clogged-up quickly.

Try a Volvo brand filter, and see if it lasts 25-30K. If so, then it is likely to be the paper used in the failed-filter, that led to its premature failure. If a Volvo filter lasts only, say, 10K miles, then I wonder if your area isn't "dustier" or more pollen-rich.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

BUT I didnt see hardly any particulates lodged in it?
When I can Ill get a Volvo brand filter,,

Probably the particles are so small, you can't see them with the naked eye.

For my 245 I've used a multitude of brands (Mann Filter, Filtron, Mahle, Meyle, Skandix own brand, perhaps even Fram), all still performed fine at the service interval.

No need to pay the premium for the Volvo brand, just buy a premium aftermarket brand (possibly an OEM) for 1/2 the price.
--
1992 245 Polar B200F M47

I do use Napa..Now i think I may have some crudded up valves?That I need to try to see if I can dissolve it??

well I did
get anorther mann it just annoys me that I was trying to diagnose it& didnt suspect the filter,,
Now I have it running much better just waiting for plugs & wires,,the TPS sensor seems to run a little below 750 rpm & then it dies,Ill have to pull the throttle body to see how its set..

Hi,

On that air filter you say was clogged up did you test it?
It’s hard to believe that it stopped all the air so suddenly?

I think you should have used a vacuum cleaner to see if it stops the air from coming into it.
Stuff the vacuum cleaners hose into the backside of the box or tape a short plastic bag around the filter edge itself and onto the vac’s hose. If it’s sucks the bag more than it should, well maybe?

With the filter in front of the hose the sound pitch will speed up if it stops the air flow.
The pitch changes or drops in tone as the motor loads up.
Moving more air because more work is being done in moving it.
Physics fact is … Amperage draw also goes up to indicate this.
Same happens when you plug the hose with your hand or a rag.
The motor sounds like it speeds up, unloading, the pitch goes to a higher one with no air.
Some think it’s pulling harder and doing more but not exactly.
A dirtier filter causes, a less in and less output in performances, period.

There are Lots of ways to check it for restriction.
Lots of people hold the filter up to the bright sunlight and look for an even brightness to come through.

If you want to be more technical, there is an adjustable spring loaded gadget that can be installed into an air filter box. They are used on an air compressors intakes.
Some let you set the spring tension to read green with a newer or different filter replacement brand.
As it gets more restrictive a sleeve or rod slides into view to show red.
I think Grainger or McMaster Carr sold them.

I first saw them on Ingersoll Rand screw compressors and figured It Helps to sell more filters too!
But … are easier on a good maintenance man’s vigilance's and you can still decide on what dirty can be if adjustable.

A manometer with tenths of an inch of water column (PSIG) numbers showing pressure differential from two lines.
These are lot more expensive instruments, considering when you can still just ignore the numbers. (:-).
What’s nice is You can watch the increases over time though.
A bread and pastry bakery’s air handler sure can plug up its air filters really fast!
Construction zones or a graveled farmers road did you go down the other day? Oh, that one!

I have a salvaged Magnahelic(R) that I shouldn’t have gotten at a flea market.
Art posted a definition of what a bargain is.
Something you don’t need at a price to cheap to walk away from.

Trouble is, I’m to darn lazy to add two ports on all my cars.
I found out it to be really sensitive as they have to be held steady and vertically.
It’s their normal calibration setting to be accurate and it’s made to be on a stationary panel or cabinet.

On a 240 it’s easier to loosen the AMM so the hose and cover moves back, so consequently, I thought it would be advantageous to use one and stop that hassle to just peek in.
Nah, I still just prep myself to change the filter, when it’s been long enough to be curious. (:)
My past M. O. was to get nearly new ones for $2 at the Junkyards.
Even that has dried up, along with some complete ignition systems setups for cheap. (:(
You can tell, I’m not too brand name crazy or stealer ship nuts either.

Good thing is, I haven’t been driving nearly as much as I use too, since Covid-19’s life style changes.
Now the on-line dilemma is doing the nibbling for my wife’s anxieties.
Our place has turned into a cardboard recycling center.

Yep, My cash money doesn’t go as far as it use too.
Not so much due to inflation as it gets to stay in my wallet longer. (:-)

Phil

To be fair, a fully plugged airfilter is not that common, especially not after just 10 k miles.

A decade and a half or two ago, I was subscribed to a British classic car magazine, and I seem to remember this particular problem being mentioned only once.
--
1992 245 Polar B200F M47

Since you did something to the air cleaner, check the plug for the air mass sensor - see that all the female pins are lined up.

Sometimes one of the pins gets pushed out of posoition - If one or more pins are recessed, carefully pull the wire out and gently bend the tang that licks it in the plug.

When I had that issue in one of my 740s, I pulled the rubber boot back abd drew a Sharpie Marler across all the wires so that I could check for contact after the sensor was plugged in.

Long shot, nbut easy to check.

The connection on the air mass sensor is one of the few connectors that is messed woth on a regular basis.

Ok thanks Good suggestion,,I believe the problem lies w the igntion module,,,which took a while to find 1 .Its at an Autozone 15 miles away .Good thing about online buying is that they started delivering to homes just like they used to deliver to shops!

Have you opened up the coil pack and cleaned the internal contacts and all mating surfaces (including the coil’s mounting to chassis)? I would try that before buying a new one. Two torx head screws hold it together.

yea i did,,had similar problem in 2007 on a 740 now that i think of it,,cleaned all surfaces.no start.
After I cleaned coil surfaces w steel wool,I tried it again,& no good.
So i ordered another
ignition module,Installed it& it started right up,,,then it idled for a few minutes died.I seem to be back at square 1.

I’d revisit the fuel pump relay per BB. Did you check the air mass meter plug for tightness and damaged pins as suggested?

Assuming the coil wire, ignition wires and power stage wiring are all good?

You’ve definitely had a tough time with that car lately. Time for your luck to change!
--
Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Air filter lasted only 2 yrs,,the paper has been clogged
I took it out & turned the key & engine started right up!!!
changed the oil & filter & then it wouldnt start,,

2 yr old]Bougicord plug wires lost their grip on the plugs,,garbage only had them 2 yrs ,Tighten w pliers& it started up
that & the relay wires,,that are 28 yrs old need to be replaced,,,thats to be expected
Why cant Volvos live forever..??

i wonder how to tell if the power stage or coil is working? Started right up this morning ran for 6 mins& then died,,so it seems that when its hot it dies...

Hi,

B.B. has a point about relays but didn’t come out and say why he didn’t trust junkyard pulls.
I suspect he thinks that they are used to some unknown degree. Well yeah that has some truths, unless that previous owner or his mechanic just put in a new one.

New ones are untested over a great amount of time so there is one dilemma right there. Or the quality of new as we have to remember, that lots of parts houses try not to provide very long warranties on electrical item for a reason. Coils of all types can be just like headlight bulbs.
What do you want to trust more?
Guess I’m a little facetious on this thought. (:-)

The point is B.B. is saying that is possible that the coil inside the relay is getting too warm and in six minutes it fails to continue to magnetize.
I had a system relay fail that way or it can be a bad terminal connection onto that relay.
Especially if it goes to a large current user like a fuel pump.
Same thing goes for the trace soldering of circuit boards as we know on the 240s.

This intermittent needs some cross diagnostics and that is why I suggested the starting fluid to help point out fuel over drop of ignition sparks.
One or the other is turning off and a signal light from the ignition would be helpful.
A timing light on the secondary side of the coil or a test light on the negative side of the ignition coil might help.
That side of the coil gets turned on and then off to fire the plugs. The bulb goes out it fires. During cranking it is slow and should blink.

So it dies when it get hot, is a clue that fits above, but what about the other times, if its not?

Ya gotta find out what’s not happening and back up through the system that provides that missing component of combustion.

Hope this helps you think this out.

Phil

I know that.! I have several RSR s & it took a while to find a new 1..Junkyard Volvos IS there such a thing anymore??
Tomorrow Ill take the Throttle body off& test the sensor for the correct position..I installed new wires & tomorrow new Platinum plugs.NGKs are they supposed to be gapped when new? Thanks much,,

Hi Machineman,

I wonder how many Volvos hit the junk yard for a bad fuel relay or RSR either of
which can croak your car outright, (easy to fix) or worse, fail intermittently
and start working without notice (tough to diagnose a part that is working OK)
Relays are good for so many cycles and are like all machines, striving for their
Nirvana, a stable busted state.

One way Blindboy can catch an intermittent fuel relay is to put his DC voltmeter
on F11 and when his car quits, see if he lost 12 volts there.
That might be good if it quits every five minutes.
In my case the car would either quit outright
and/or run very ragged requiring you put some foot on the gas to prevent a stall.
This problem would come and go, maybe working for months before failing again.

Cheers, Bill

All these probelms happened cause FCp sels crap muffler hangers,,thw hANGER ROTS & THAT PUTS STRESS ON THE HEADER/CAT JUNCTION LETTING IN MORE AIR THAT CAUSE MORE FUEL TO BE INJECTWED CREATINGB SOOT IN THE CAT & BLOCKING IT UP!!

f11??

Fuse 11,
For the Regina B234F powers the Fuel pump and the O2 sensor (heater) via the main fuel relay.

Do you know how many amps that fuse should be?On my Ashtray back the amp size is unreadable

F-11 is 15 amps

What's your email?
I'll send you a 1993 operators manual that has fuse,
and lots of other good info. It's a PDF under 4MB.
I can try sending you the 1994 940 wiring diagram PDF file,
but its 27MB and I dunno if that will fly on e-mail ?

Bill

chestersbud@hotmail..thanks much!!

A closer look at the Regina & LH 2.4 schematics shows two different ECU's and main fuel relays.
The Regina fuel pump has a different part number than LH 2.4.

Regina: main fuel relay 2/23 with one coil and one set of points, ECU 4/25.
LH 2.4 B230FT: main fuel relay 2/13 Two coils & two sets of points, ECU 4/23.
It looks like a parts fiasco to get the right Regina fuel pump 6/33-2 and fuel relay.

The two fuel circuits are similar but vary in functions.
Fuse 1 @ 25 amps and fuse 11 @ 15 amps seem the same values.
RSR 2/12 seems to be the same part.





Now with any luck Spook can come to the rescue with a part number for the
Regina fuel relay.

Cheers, Bill

Thanks,I got the emails& Ill check them out,,

Did you get your voltmeter on Fuse-11 to see if you lose 12 volts
there when the car quits?

No I didnt notice your thread,,first time the car starts right up drove about 4 miles stopped let my raging coonhound out to poop & it refused to start,.
Im gonna chance another IAc valve on ebay,& see if a different valve will work,,

Hello Blindboy,

I don't know if you were replying to me or not, when I asked if you
Have 12 volts at Fuse 11 when the car quits?

Bill

You can check for spark to check the power stage & coil.

I had the same problem as you when I got my 940 last summer, inherited
from the previous owner: intermittent car quits and/or runs ragged.

A new fuel relay #3523608 at Ebay for under $20.00 did the trick.

Don't trust junk yard relay pulls for the critical "kills the car" Fuel or RSR relays.

Bill

yea ,that temporailry worked but I checked the ignition module which is the same as a 1989 Jepp Cherokee 4 cyl 4wd,,ignition module & its dead,,so i have another on order,,,& it should be here tomorrow

Hi,

Soooooo, are you saying it’s fixed by leaving the air filter out and all else hooked up?

Your post is a little confusing with out the word “LAST” before night for my time-line-ticking.

I think you are saying, that because it starts “sometimes,” that you think it’s not all within the scope of “not getting air flow.”
When it doesn’t start, have you tried a long spurt of starting fluid?

You can use a vacuum port or go a little more daring and put the vapor in front of the snorkel tube just for the air cleaner housing. Its opening is probably in between the grill and fender/radiator supports.
I do that while the engine is idling. A burst of propane vapor gives a test the reaction to my oxygen sensor and meter.
It has digital led lights, like a drag strips “Christmas tree” and is very quick to prove its not being lazy.

A question is … Do you think it floods or not getting fuel, sometimes?
It that or a spark tester or a timing light for a display.

Intermittent problems are so much fun but it’s not exactly the kind of fun that an amusement parks sells intermittently. (:-)

Phil