Dear B.B,

Hope you're well. As to the trim panel, the white tubular "bushings" never were supplied as a separate part. I do not know if they come with replacement color-specific clips, that hold in place the panel, around the cargo space roof light. The gray clip is #1386847. I do not know if this part can still be had from a Volvo dealer.

As to "washer for the rear window", do you refer to the pump, which is mounted next to the window washer reservoir? I've yet to replace one of these.

As Dave Stevens suggests, the most fragile part of the rear window washer system is the "delivery" valve. This is Part #9178897. It is available from www.fcpeuro.com or www.eeuroparts.com. The cost should be $9-10.

This delivery valve is adhered with black butyl rubber to the metalwork above the passenger-side tail-light opening. You'll find it "by feel". There's not enough slack in the tubing from the pump, to be able to see the valve. So, when I've had to replace the valve, I've added a length of the rubber tubing, that supplies the window-washing fluid, so the delivery valve is more easily accessed.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Re. Item 1, wagon rear dome light. I thought those big plastic screws were 1/4 turn like everything else with a slot in it -it's been a while since I had that upper panel off. I see just now I've got a light fixture loose on one side so likely a broken mounting stud. Once you start breaking trim fastener studs and tabs it often means either full replacement or attempting to find plastic glues and fillers to make a repair that will last. I usually don't bother trying to jerry-rig a fix for plastic fasteners, but simply start by using sticky black butyl caulk to see if that will hold well enough. It stays soft and will be easy to pry open up later. It's used for glazing and flashings sold in rolls at better hardware stores.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Re item 2, tailgate washer
Check if the washer motor up at the reservoir is attempting to pump. You can even pull a hose off and see if it's pumping. If not then start by doing electrical fault tracing as it could be the motor, relay or stalk switch. More than likely the problem is at the rear and it's a stuck/plugged check valve. The little diaphragm inside fails and can plug the port, also dirt from the reservoir. The check valve can be found by reaching up inside the right D pillar through the taillight access panel. The washer hose runs low along the right side and over the wheel well to the taillight area then into a right angled check valve before heading up to the tailgate connector. You may need to pull down the hose a bit to find the check valve. You can disconnect the check valve inlet to see if fluid will now come out, and if that works then try it with just the outlet removed. The plastic check valve at the rear is L shaped, while the one up front in the hood is T shaped. The L shaped ones are not common in the aftermarket, but the T shaped ones are. You can use a T shaped one at the rear by closing off one of the outlets, I usually just melt the end with a soldering iron. Double check for leakage before buttoning things up. The nozzles at the rear rarely plug in my experience. The slit in the nozzle makes it difficult to clean from that side, so perhaps try compressed air from outside with the check valve disconnected then inside into the hose before resorting to try carefully removing the nozzle.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now