So as you may have seen from another post, I turn my key and nothing happens. I have had issues in the past few months about this randomly happening and then sometimes the AC blower motor would not work and the SRS light would stay lit unless I turned the key counterclockwise slightly and then all was fine.

So I bought a Genuine Volvo Ignition Switch, cussed and installed it and NOTHING when I turn the key. I did get a ding like twice out of 30 tries, but no power, no dash lights, nothing. The key turns in the barrel and seems to have some resistance a little.

Someone suggested that I got a bad switch possibly. But it took 10 days to get the new switch and I need to get the car from my work.

So, how can I test my switch? Can I manually turn the male catch when the switch is not connected to the ignition barrel, or does it have to be touching it for ground or something?

Will it show the accessories for Position II and start if the gauge cluster is out?

If I need to Hotwire it, (it is stuck at my office). could I buy a aftermarket two toggle deal with accessory power and then a starter toggle? I have seen a post about what the wires do, but is it using the switch to ground anything?

I appreciate your help.

Dave called it. It was a corroded wire in that power junction box on the left fender. I had my key in position II, unscrewed the mounting bolt and jiggled it and the lights came on and so did the blower motor. I disconnected the negative and cleaned off the white crud and put the cable on and the car fired right up.

I do think I needed a new ignition switch after 350K miles. It does seem sharper and less
Slacky feeling.

I really appreciate everyone’s help. It is crazy how we skip over basic stuff like “does have power”?. Although it was intermittent so it did disguise itself. The car is safe at home and is going to get treated with a nice wash for having to live in a parking lot for a few days.

Thank you very much for letting us know what was your problem. Us who still drive these appreciate much learning about those unsuspected problems.

I for one will certainly look at that particular point and prevent future problem

Thank for replying.

Hmm, an interesting problem that I very much suspected was just the ignition switch.

One quick thing you can check with your car stuck at work is fuses. In your 240 there's a fused distribution block up by the battery. Follow the red battery + cable to a nearby rectangular plastic box. The number two "Y" fuse in that block supplies power to the ignition switch (pin 30). Start by checking that fuse and pulling it to see if there's any corrosion.

Putting in a new switch apparently made things worse? So possibly a Volvo switch that is DOA as you suggest, but I consider that unlikely. Is there any chance the new ignition switch wasn't seated properly or that a wire got pinched in between during installation that might be in the way. If the key can turn the barrel then the only way I can immagine the ignition switch not cooperating is if the half moon shaft that sticks out the back somehow isn't seated or the ignition lock got so damaged that it is no longer turning. You would need to pull the ignition switch off to confirm that. With the ignition switch off, you could then use a screwdriver to turn it to see if that makes a difference or even starts the engine. A better option of course would be doing some electrical diagnosis with a meter, but that will require a decent wiring diagram. If you didn't want to remove the cluster so you can get at the switch connector you could use the wiring diagram to find where these wires terminate elsewhere at more accessible spots.

Being that the car is stuck at work, another simple thing you can try is verifying the starter motor and battery connections. Along the left fender is an open spade remote starter connector that bypasses the ignition switch, either a single pink or blue wire, on a short lead from the main engine wiring harness. If you jump that to battery +12V the starter motor should crank. The car needs to be in Park so that the start inhibit switch on the shift lever assembly doesn't get in the way. If the starter motor doesn't click then short the starter solenoid terminals. If it now cranks then that implicates the start inhibit switch -they can definitely become a problem in their old age with dirty/worn contacts inside (you can attempt to open them for a cleaning).

Hot wiring a 1990 240 so that you can drive it is non-trivial, but it can be done. There are all kinds of things that need power plus interlocks and safety features that can get in the way -especially in automatics. You may want to refer to this old thread "How to start a 240 without a key? (in junkyard) 200" where Bruce Young explained the basic electrical bypasses for the ignition switch (many of us miss Bruce and his many contributions here)
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1256435&show_all=1

Once Art gets onto this I'm sure he'll have more ideas after reviewing all your posts. I didn't have time here to rethink all your symptoms.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

You are awesome. Thanks for the help. BTW- It has an M47. I have been reading a lot about it and I am going to try those things you suggest. To be clear, the new switch didn't make it worse, it is the same issues. Like I said after maybe thirty tries, twice the dinger came on but nothing else. I will check the remote starter and the power junction on the fender well.

Some of the symptoms the past year have been these:

1. pull key out and the dinger still went off, it didn't know the key was out.
2. Start the car and no blower and SRS light on, then just barely tap the key toward KP II and they worked properly.
3. Every blue moon, the car would do nothing like it is now. I would get out and check the battery terminals or something else etc and try again and it would start. Sometimes just trying a few times it would catch and go.
4. I had to lube the key hole because the key wouldn't come out easily.

I am starting to think it is a combination of things. I am the original owner of the car and it has about 350K miles on it, so it has put in good use. I have never had to change the ignition switch or mess with the key barrel. In fact the old switch says W. Germany on it so I know its original!

If you've got a manual trans there is no start inhibit switch (the connector has a jumper installed).

I'm starting to agree with you, possibly multiple problems. I'm really curious about that "Y" fuse. A corroded fuse there could allow all kinds of variable symptoms, like the dinger working but not much else. Please post back with your progress
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Where art ART? Help me!

Machine man already pointed to the ignition starter circuit
where there's the ignition switch and a shift interlock switch to worry about.
Please e-mail me the Volvo wiring diagram/fault tracing manual for the 1990 240
so I can help you better.

My hunch, Your problem sounds like an issue I had with a 740.

You can try to start your car with a big screwdriver, and short the starter solenoid lugs.
You have the ignition key in the run position and the car in park and the e-brake on to do this.

There's also a service connector somewhere in the engine bay that you connect
+12 volts to spin the starter. That should be in the Volvo wiring book.

If it starts, it narrows down the number of culprits.

Good luck, Bill

I emailed it.

Thanks Bill I found the diagram. How di I get it to you?

My e-mail in my profile