I am changing over a 1967 144S from automatic to a manual transmission. My question is: Are there different brake/clutch pedal setups? Or are they specific to a 1967 144S or are they all the same for 67-72 ?

My vin listed on A-pillar: 1443461-028577

Doing some sleuthing for you, as you probably know the pedal assembly changed in the final '73-'74 140s with a change in the dash support structure being moved from part of the pedal assembly to the revised centre console, basically identical to the 240 which was just about to be introduced. That's from an old post here on the brickboard and what I recall in my manual '74 144GL. (My clutch cable was forever breaking every 3-5 years so I was in that area on multiple occasions until I finally learned from dealer service that the cable was sometimes misrouted at the factory creating a slightly sharper bend at the clutch adjuster -so note that for yourself) Even though '67 was an introductory model year, I highly doubt a basic assembly like that would be different. A recent eBay listing for an early clutch pedal assembly indicated fitment was '67-'72. I couldn't find any Volvo parts listings for that pedal assembly to confirm fitment.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

The first year of the 140 came with the B18. That would have had a hydraulic clutch and not the cable that was used with the B20. Pedals are different for that. Not sure if the tunnel pressing is wider for autos on the 140. They certainly were with the 120 and that made auto to manual conversion difficult. Not sure if the B18 140 models got the auto box. The B20 Amazon was manual only.

For the US market the 140 with a B18 came with a cable operated clutch in '67 (very rare to find--can be ID'ed by the chrome push button on the outside door handles rather than black plastic as on the later cars). 1968 also saw the B18 here in the US -- the B20 first came in 1969 here. The BW35 was available with the B18. Those came with an air cooled torque converter (cooling fins--no hydaulic lines to the radiator). - Dave

Thanks for all your replies. I do have the early chrome door buttons on me early '67 and there were no BW35 cooling lines either.Just waiting for the pedal box to arrive here next week. Any other suggestions would be helpful but I feel it's fairly straight forward and whats nice there's much more room to work under the dash than my 1800E.
Duck

After doing some further reading I quite agree with Dave. My '66 122S B18 was hydraulic clutch control, but the B18 140s with M40/M41 appear to have been clutch cable right from the start according to North American parts houses when I look up the clutch pedal by itself. In other markets with right hand drive, the distance over the clutch may have allowed continued use of the hydraulic clutch linkage with the B18s within the confines of the new tunnel profile and position of the clutch pedal end point. I note in European parts houses that 140 schematics that include the hydraulic clutch are labeled RHD. I'm not sure why, perhaps nostalgia, but there was something I preferred about the feel of my previous hydraulic clutch linkage when I got my B20 140.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

I'm not sure why you are puzzled over the RHD designation for the hydraulic clutch parts for the 140. With the clutch acuation taking place on the left side of the car it is far easier to use hydraulics with the pedals on the right. 240 models used both cable (B21-23 and diesel) and hydraulic (with the Peugeot based V6 in the 260 series). When I came to that point in building my Oldsmobile 215 V8 with a Camaro 5-speed in a 1993 245 I had both sets of pedals. I decided on hydraulics but instead of relying on the availablitly of rare Volvo hydraulic parts I chose to use those designated for the classic Datsun 510--easily available--and cheap. It works great. -- Dave

Having done a few conversions -- they're all the same '67-'72. -- Dave