My daughters 245 has a turbine like whine under hard acceleration, she says it gets louder but so far I have not heard it loud.
Any ideas as to what it might be I'm going to check the differential fluid, but does not appear to leak noticeably.
Thanks Dan

Has anybody used Mevotech inner tie rods

Hi,

It’s been my experience that a high pitched shrilling sound, at speeds above about 50 mph, to be usually a center support bearing on the drive shaft.
I have only had one go out so far on my cars and it was also a wagon but of 1986 vintage and it was the ball bearing gone dry. The balls want to slide and not roll.
I can’t say if the later wagon cars changed any, but the sedans have them too.
I can’t say if the lengths change much but the loads can.

On my 1986 I have a low speed (10-15 and up to 20 mph) chirp that has been chirping for a long time.
I have pulled the drive shaft recently to at least change the rubber support and inspected the bearing and feel out the universal joints.
Al was smooth and in normal fit yet the chirp prevails right back up to its normal level of sound.
I think I’m headed for new joints.
At 350K I must have changed out one, once? To many years ago to remember.

A year goes by so fast that I try to relate to what the was season was when I last worked on a car and at which house.
The season’s are start into blur together at my age.
I try to keep a log on each but that takes another discipline.
I have not been good with getting that in line with other ever changing priorities.

I’m pretty sure it’s got to be something in driveline but it’s far from being dangerous.
It just reminds me that its that one, of my six cars and not to forget about it totally.

The chirp will probably change into a shrill eventually.
You know, it’s like the proverbial little bird on the shoulder, that you don’t dare not to listen too.
Birds can do more than just make a noise on your shoulder. (:)

Phil

Yes this may be the beginning of the end of the bearing, I will try spraying some grease into the bearing to hold it off for awhile. My records show me I have not replaced the bearing on this 240.
Thanks
Dan

I agree with maplebones that the bearing may not be at the end of its useful life.

I had a 240 with the same symptoms. The original carrier bearing's plastic "seal" was fairly easy to dislodge enough to get a spray can straw behind. Things had to be moved to get at it but it remained in place.

I used a product called LPS3. It is sold in 11oz aerosol containers. It sprays as an oil but the contained vehicle evaporates and leaves behind a light grease. I loaded the area behind the seal as much as possible. This not only cured the immediate problem but it remained quiet for years after having two additional owners until I was able to buy it back. I then sold it to a friend who had it for several years before he passed it on to a new owner. At that point it still had the original carrier bearing.
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Where did you get the LPS3, I do want to spray some in the bearing in an effort to slow down the inevitable.

I had to order an inner tie rod for the car and just discovered a fuel leak in the return line. I started another thread for the leak.
Thanks again
Dan

Hi,

As I remember there are three variations of LPS and the three is a heavier wax like formula that I believe is more of a rust preventative.
Not sure how much of a lubrication medium it is meant to have?
Read the descriptions of their line first.

The Number Two would probably serve you better as it’s the mid grade overall lubricant, since you are investing in a whole can of it, plus shipping.
I can usually find the LPS line in well equipped tool stores and sometimes as an extra product line in the Harbor Freight stores, but don’t count on it. Call first, if you have one?
Number One is greaseless for a light lubrication. It’s more similar to a WD-40 but a whole lot better than that fragranced solvent.

The tool stores, that I’m speaking of, carry more professional or high end automotive gadgets.
Cater to contractors or in shop tools for Woodworking and some low end metalworking machine tools for tinkering.
These are far and few between on the west coast. Not like they use to be.
The product LPS was originally introduced to be used in an industrial setting of maintenance operations.
I first saw it at L.A. area trade shows.
I use to go to them when I was in the trade, like 40+years ago. (:(

There are so many people making these, overpriced, aerosolized products and the regulations put on them has has drove the market nuts!
Get things that you will use to get the value of a “the mechanic in a can” out of. (:-)
As I know you are looking for.

Phil

LPS also makes a cold galvanize corrosion inhibitor.

I spent time cleaning out a boxed in area in front of the rear wheel on my Jensen Healey many years ago. I wire brushed it before spraying with the corrosion inhibitor and then painted it with black rustoleum.

I'm not sure it was effective over the time that has elapsed but I felt good about it. Unfortunately, it is one of those cars I wish I had not parted with. However, I have learned we all have a number of those.
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

I used to have a full service auto supply company in a nearby city. They carried a full line of LPS products. Sadly they are gone.

Amazon carries it at the present time.

Randy


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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Hi Randy,

Is this what you used on the bearing?
https://www.itwprobrands.com/product/lps-3

Thanks, Bill

Hi,

That product appears to be very similar to Fluid Film or it's competitor Wool Wax. The applications they suggest are identical.

Although not advertised as a lubricant, I've had very good success using Fluid Film on sleeve bearings that are used on electric motors and such. A fan on my welder that needed oil on a yearly basis has been quiet for 10 years after one application. Lanolin oil is supposed to not dry out as does petroleum oils.

I have no doubt it would quiet down the center bearing for a time, maybe a long time, if it's too much trouble to repack it.

Peter

Yes, that is what I use. I also have had containers of LPS1 and LPS2 in the past.

LPS3 is the only one I have repurchased. LPS1 is a very light lubricant. LPS2 is like an oil.

LPS3 is my choice because of its ability to easily flow into a space and act more like a grease. I don't know how it manages to increase its viscosity for application but results in a light grease (evaporation of an included solvent??)
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal

Of course they do, why didn't I think of that!
Thanks
Dan

Hi,

I think it unlikely very much grease will penetrate the seal on the center bearing if just sprayed on.

A better option that will give you immediate relief is to get a hypodermic needle for your grease gun and shoot some grease in between the outer race and the seal. Don't try to puncture the seal as I once did. You might break the needle.

The whining does not necessarily mean a failed bearing. Just one crying out for grease. It's a rugged unit operating on a small load. I've pulled 3 whiners on 240's I've restored and all were put back in service after pulling the seals, cleaning out the caked grease, and repacking. A short bath in boiling water will make seal removal very easy.

To inspect the bearing look for lateral movement between the inner and outer race, and signs of scoring or overheating. Before repacking, apply some oil to the clean bearing and hold it with the fingers of your left hand inside the inner race. Spin with your right hand. If it runs smoothly there's no reason to replace it in my opinion. One of the cars with a repacked bearing has now over 75k with no issue.

Peter