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For context, yes, I swapped my 9004 halogens for some LEDs on my US market 945. The final paragraph pertains specifically to high wattage halogens, so I welcome thoughts on that, as well as my question about the monitoring system. Also, I'm aware of the possibility of converting to E codes. I'd rather see how good I can get it short of that, before modifying my car in that manner (not to mention the cost).
The company selling the LEDs (Hikari) has offered to send me the resistors to counteract the bulb out warning. It seems counterintuitive to me, however, to have a more efficient light source only to burn off that efficiency to satisfy the warning system. Additionally, I'd greatly prefer to not clutter my engine bay with heat sinks and more wiring (and potential points of failure). While I know I could remove the warning bulb, or possibly disable the system in another way, I was wondering if it would be possible to retain the system for the rest of the bulbs. One knows immediately if there is a low beam out, but the system is useful for other bulbs. I have no issue checking my lighting with regularity - I'd still like to retain the system for the small bulbs if possible.
Having written that, I'll add I'm not married to the LEDs. In my (USA, non-factory fog) Cibie housings, the lighting is a drastic improvement, but the cutoff is not sharp, and the lights might potentially be too bright for my tastes. The test will be driving at night in the rain, which may not be for months. I have used this brand in the past with really good results, and went with their lowest advertised lumen product (12,000 lumens). With the way I have them adjusted (may not be perfect, mind you), they seem to be lighting up the road surface immediately in front of the car more than I would like. That's probably more due to the housings than the aiming, I'd say. I've plenty of experience with aiming, but this car has a weaker cutoff, which has me uncertain, so I'm erring my aim on the low side. I'm also not super pleased with the 6000k color temperature. It's fine (feels like it keeps me awake), but just a little too white for my tastes in an older car. The factory xennons on our V60 seem less white than these. But this is what the market demands. So anyway, I know higher output (80/100W) 9004 halogens are available from Hella. I'm open to giving them a try, but don't want to overload the factory wiring. And I certainly don't want to alter the electrical system in my car. I feel I can do a good job, but not better than Volvo. Years ago, I had an e28 535i, and swapped to H1/H4 Hellas, with 90/130 bulbs, and ran it with the stock wiring day and night with no issues - at least none I was aware of. But I'd rather not risk it now that I know better. So if anyone has tried 80/100 halogens in the Cibie housings, I'd love to know your thoughts.
-Wilson
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Help to know the year and model. I'll guess a 900 series model as you mention you have a US Market 945 estate / wagon.
The bulb out sensor uses what are called Reed relays. For your RWD 900 series there are several reed relays in the bulb out or bulb malfunction sensor. One circuit path brings power to the sensor for the low beam headlights. In the bulb out sensor, the low beam circuit is split into left bulb low beam filament and right bulb low beam filament.
It is a current draw imbalance between the left and right low beam circuits that bends the pass Reed relay to make contact and light the bulb out ash light.
The high beam filaments do not pass through the bulb failure / out / integrity / malfunction sensor.
See the Mitchell Service electrics diagrams here at this site:
http://www.v8volvo.se/mekartips/volvo/index.html
As the low beam circuit splits inside the bulb out sensor, the left and right positive route through a unique fuse for left and right low beam filament through the fuse box in the center console behind the ashtray.
The RWD 700 / 900 series fuse box is a service item as the bonded contact between the ATC fuse blades and the fuse box contacts the fuses secure into. With age and ambient conditions corrosion can form and heat builds causing plastic bits to melt. High current fuse contacts like climate control.
The headlight relay in your RWD 900 series enables your to use the front floodlights with low beams only.
FAQ: Electrical: Lighting, Horns
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalLightingHorns.htm
FAQ: Electrical: Circuits, Wiring, Relays, Switches
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm
One solution is to connect the low beam out downstream, if you will, from the fuse left and right into a unique fuse or double pole / double throw fuse relay with B+ from the battery B+ rail powering the bulbs. Useful for the factory set-up or if you choose the high current HID system.
The factory US market square headlights, like on my three 240s, use the 9004 bulbs for the US DOT spec lens and headlight reflector assemblies. You are correct in that the beam pattern is not well focused. Also, these terrible assemblies can lose the water tight adhesion between the lens and reflector assembly. On plastic lenses like on all 1986+ 240s and some 700/900 models in the US market, these assemblies can form a fogging of the lens and limit the poorly focused beam down the road. On glass lenses used on 700/900, the glass lens can crack. In all instances, the reflector can be damaged.
On 1986+ US market 240s, the exterior lighting is problematic. The 700 and your 900 series use the combo filament 1157 for park and brake light. The right side uses a white bulb holder and the left (driver) side uses black for the 1157.
You can replace all exterior lighting with LED bulbs.
Some will place the bulbs into the wrong bulb holders and than again into the wrong tail light socket. It can cause problems if fitted with a flexible circuit board. The wrong bulb and bulb holder can ruin the circuit board, the bulb holder and the lens from excess heat. Some 700 / 900 do not use the park / brake light dual filament 1157 bulb.
On my 1992 240 GL, that uses the same bulb failure sensor (Volvo PN 1362370) as your 945, I bypassed the entire sensor.
I did this as the sensor uses sort of small diameter conductor for the low beam headlamps. Dave Barton's site has a kit to bypass the sensor after removing it from the wire harness socket and short conductors plug into the socket.
I trimmed the sensor assembly from the sensor socket base and soldered a heavier stranded copper conductor with high temperature and durable insulation to the internal side of the sensor socket base using appropriate temp lead / tin (Pb/Sn) solder. (To upset the RoHS lead-free folks. Ha!) All exterior lighting is brighter as a result. Like tire pressure and fluids I check all bulb including blinkers / flashers regularly.
See this page to read Dave Barton's three part article on the bulb failure sensor. Page (copy and paste URL into new browser tab or window):
https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html
The Volvo factory bulb out sensor bypass PN 1308561 is NLA. Held one in my hands once at Brentwood Volvo in Saint Louis in the 1980s.
You want the:
<<< Red Sensor 1362370: Diagram at left is for the RED 1986-93 bulb failure sensor (1986-93 240, 1986 and later 740, 780, and 1991-94 940).
Diagram view is facing contact pins. The diagram is sort of small:
Our Art Benstein has a diagram for this or the earlier black bulb sensor (pre-high center third brake light) someplace. I did not find it at first glance at Art's site cleanflametrap.com. I had to use Art and Dave's diagram as I am a terrible dyslexic when bypassing the sensor on my 1992 240 GL.
Art's diagram is here in this Turbobricks thread:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=240085
I may go to LED for the stock 240 headlight housing. I used Eclectic products RV or Marine Goop to seal and secure the lens to the reflector assembly. With new halogen bulbs and clear lenses and fine reflectors after the cleaning and reseal, the US DOT 1986+ 240 headlamp lighting still sucks. So brighter LEDs for all. Someday maybe e-codes. Miss the sealed beam dual round and quad round set-up on my 1970s 240s. Miss K-Jet and that era sometimes.
Questions?
Hope that helps you!
Merry Christmas!
Eggnog and Fruitcake Boyyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!
--
Beh.
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A 945 indeed, 1995 vintage. I'll try to remember to include that on new questions. Additionally, I have the plastic lens Cibie lights. The reflectors and lenses appear to be in excellent condition (one owner car which was always garaged).
Thanks for the explanation of the system, and also for the Mitchell links. I just ordered a Chiltons, but having spent some of my teens under a lift in a real garage, I respect Mitchell. At some point, I may try to source VADIS. I had VIDA and a counterfeit DICE module when I had my P1, and that was fantastic. I moved away from Windows computers, and VIDA went away with it. My wife recently swapped her BMW for a P3, so I'll be needing VIDA again, too.
I'm not interested in rewiring my headlights, but I'm glad to understand enough now to know I could solve my issue that way. At the moment, I'm more inclined to bypass the system entirely, but who knows (it's only Friday, after all).
-Wilson
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Hi Wilson,
Go here for Volvo engine schematics.
http://www.autoelectric.ru/auto/volvo/940/1993/940-93.htm
Volvo schematics blow Mitchell's & Chiltons out of the water as you will see.
They include part drawings and locations, & more wiring details.
The book you want is Volvo TP3908202 Wiring and fault tracing manual.
If you're lucky you can still find it with uncooperative search engines.
It's the 1995 940 51 MB 215 pages.
If you can't find it send me an SD card and I'll send it back with that manual.
Cheers, Bill
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Thanks to Kittysgrayvolvo
go here: http://www.v8volvo.se/mekartips/volvo/index.html
Paydirt.
Grab the file ...grona... for your model year.
Send the Egg Nog Kid some roses.
Bill
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Ahoy "Beh",
My favorite browser, Netsurf, has quit working at Brickboard.
Now my stock un-hacked Mozilla browser Palemoon is gagging
when trying to upload photos, while you don't seem to have any issues.
I suppose you are using a Google approved browser?
Why don't you try LED's in your 240?
Halogens are heaters, obsolete!
I'd start with the Lasfit LcPlus series for your dual beam lamp.
Best price lately $39 at Walmart on-line.
Take out the metal baffles for the halogens.
Enjoy better headlights.
Happy holidays, Bill
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Bill,
I saw your comment about the baffles in the reply to me, but I figured you meant on the E codes, as mine don't have baffles. Then after reading this, and also kittysgreyvolvo's post where I learned some 940s have glass lenses (mine are plastic) I realized you were saying you had baffles in the 9004 housings. Well I don't. Nothing to remove, but I feel like I would like to block some of the light in my setup (sacrilige, I know). Do your baffles look like something that could be added to a housing that didn't have them initially? Also, did you have to separate the lenses, or did they come out through the bulb opening?
Thanks - Wilson
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The metal baffle presses into the center of the reflector and partially surrounds
the halogen lamp. You access the 940 and the 850 baffles the same way after removing the lens. It's better without them for LEDs.
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I'll accept that. Blocking the light / lowering the output can't change the fact that the light is passing through an inferior lens. I will officially stop complaining here and now about too many lumens on these bulbs.
I will say that on Friday, I took advantage of the fact that it was raining steadily (the worst case scenario for my eyes), and took a 12 or so mile ride through the darkest, narrowest wooded roads near me. My complaints not withstanding, the setup was distinctly better than with the 45W halogens, no question. Halfway through the ride, I pulled over and very crudely lowered the aim of both lamps against a wall. So now I'm running an aim significantly lower than it should be. Naturally, the long distance illumination suffers on low beam. The positive tradeoff is that I'm getting less reflected back at me from road signs. And presumably less is being scattered into the eyes of oncoming traffic, which is pretty damn important. No driver has expressed an issue, but that's a pretty poor test. So at the moment, my headlights are something I can live with, assuming the light now aimed at the ground closer to me doesn't bother me when driving in the dry (have yet do drive at night since then). This can get me by until I fix the situation properly with E-codes, or whatever. Whatever meaning an LED projector retrofit. I hate to change up the look of the car, but this would be dramatically less expensive than E codes. Here's one attempt I found that doesn't look too bad. Again, I'd prefer stock (or especially E-codes), but I have the champagne taste / beer budget problem, and functionality wins. Pic in post is of the finished conversion. https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=301137
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Hiya Uncle Bill!
A Happy Christmas to you and yours also! Thank you.
I use several browsers on my Windows 7 (yes, I know, owld) 64-bit laptop. Google Chrome, Mozilla FireFox, and with the JavaScript runtime disabled, the now dated Opera browser 12.18. Not had any problem with using your BrickBoard with any of these browsers.
How to post images in BrickBoard messages? You understand simple HTML syntax? You can use HTML version 3 and 4 in these browsers. There is HTML5 yet we'll ignore that.
You can upload images into the BrickPix gallery, yes?
The image size must be at or below one megabyte in file length or size.
It is the string in the HTML box to the right of the BrickPix gallery image.
Paste in the message on a unique line.
Set with before the far right at the end of the image link string >.
As width='900'
800 or 900 pixels should do if the image is wider than 900 pixels.
Here is Art Benstein's bright and happy yellow instruction to post an image in a brickboard message:
Does this help? Questions?
Buttermilk MacDuffy's Eggnog and Heart Failure Tavern
--
Beh.
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Ahoy eggnog fan,
Here's what I get when trying to upload a crunched (.jpg file) photo to Brickboard:
Internal Server Error
The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.
Please contact the server administrator, webmaster@localhost and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error.
]ERR: 24: Error in Perl code: Died at /home/www/lib/AWS.pm line 33.
Apache Embperl 2.5.0 [Fri Dec 16 19:43:30 2022]
There's either Russian Hackers or Google saboteurs lurking methinks.
Dunno which is worse.
=======================================
You didn't comment on the LEDs?
The "50 watt" LcPlus Lasfit 9003 dual beam are worth a try @ $39 bucks.
Just get the one with the right socket plug for your car.
Easy going on that egg nog, it's high octane, even without the additives,
and heart disease is nothing to joke about.
***WARNING*** Too much eggnog and you'll look like Mister Creosote!
(Check out his legendary performance @ Youtube)
Happy Holidays, Bill
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Uncle Bill,
God Jul!!! (Happy CHristmas yet it just was the Yule.) Or Happy Eggnog Holidays!!!! Now featuring extra eggnog. I don't spike it with boooooze.
The error is server side so far as I know. Perl is (usually) a server-side scripting language). Unlike our Uncle Jarrod, I do not write code.
Jarrod hosts the mighty and powerful BrickBoard on Amazon Web Services (AWS). I did not know AWS uses open-source Apache web servers.
No Russian Hackers or Google saboteurs. It may be Jarrod is making changes yet maintains BrickBoard site availability for us Volvo loving folks.
Mozilla browser Palemoon? Maybe use the current Mozilla FireFox for your Windows / Apple Mac / Linux computer. Dunno (I'll tell yeh) hhhwhut computer you gots.
I'll have some links for you. I use the current 64-bit Mozilla FireFox on Windows 7 here. Google no longer supports Windows 7 so no more updates. I need to get a Windows 10 / 11 laptop someday soon for personal use.
You can use Chromium, the open source project Google uses to develop Chrome:
https://chromium.woolyss.com/download/en/
A list of other browsers:
https://chromium.woolyss.com/#browsers
PaleMoon herer is described as using an old Mozilla core (or source code fork).
If no need for JavaScript, as the adverts run in it, I use Opera 12.18 for Windows, with JavaScript off. That uses the now dated Presto presentation modul or source code.
Also, the best Ad Blocker is Raymond Hill's uBlock Origin:
https://ublockorigin.com/
For Chrome and Mozilla (and like?) Browsers. Low resource consumption and keeps the malware on questionable site out, like from Russian, N. Korean, Chinese, and other hackers. Be swell if there was such a blocker for email clients on MS Windows, so the malware, phishing, and other stuff comes through so users in the office click a link and all Windows networked devices get ransom-wared!!! Terrible. Now that Windows is a leased service sine Windows 8, Microsoft has yet to keep out use silliness by clicking links in email. Terrible how this happens at hospital systems in the US and allies. Windows and hosted applications, like MS Outlook, make it too easy for them mal-intended hackers.
Google is not terrible. They don't hack you. Yet you will get listened to. Maybe not as bad as the UK in maintaining tabs on UK citizens and business.
--
I'd not gotten off my MacDuffy's Tavern duff to get the 9004 LED bulbs. In Saint Louis, where like Snake Plissken escapes from New York, where it was filmed in Saint Louis in the late, late 1970s, where I escaped from for the third time, as the Dogtown Neighborhood is a fetid sewer and smells as bad in June through October, I'd not gotten to:
www.superbrightleds.com
In Earth City in the St. Louis area.
I read how the 9003 headlight bulbs fit into a terrible US DOT approved headlight design started by Ford or something with a terrible undefined beam pattern. Unlike them e-codes sets for either left hand or in the UK and some commonwealth nations, right-hand drive.
So, Allrounderco and you remove the lens? The LED bulb does not cast a defined pattern. The reflector and lens form the beam pattern on terrioble awful US DOT approved Volvo headlamps.
You can get black sticker thingies to stick on the lens to have a cut off at the top on on the, for our US left hand drive system. headlamps as well as the, as you sit in the driver seat, left edge of the lens so you do not bother oncoming traffic. I can do some research as to where you get these. So long as the lens is clean and clear and the headlamp seal between the reflector and the lens is without water leaks, should work okay and you do not need to lower the beam focus as Allrounderco did.
You get these kits so when you are a right hand drive car, like in German or France and you wanna motor through the chunnel or use a Ferry across the channel, you have the stickers on the lens so your headlamps are left hand drive compatible.
I'd only read about it.
I'll check up the 9004 bulb suggestions. These Sylvania 9004 halogens have aged and dimmed in three years and with the terrible 1986+ 240 US DOT bulbs, the lighting is awful.
I'd like to convert to quad rounds or squares sealed beams. You can find dual bulb systems on 1970s 240. My 1979 242 GY had e-code dual rounds with replaceable H4 (?) bulbs. That was 35 years ago, tho. It was a grey market import from Netherlands I got used. The 23mm rear stabilizer bar is on the 1991 kittys grey volvo 240 with the terrible US DOT plastic lenses. I had hoped to use fused relays to remove the headlight current draw through the relays on switch inside the driver space so stuff did not melt.
The superbrightleds.com site have 9004 bulbs that use a heat sink and ballast that is part of the bulb assembly and offer different light temperatures.
Call me without ambition for not getting LED 9004 bulbs by now. I did service the 1986+ crappy plastic lens USDOT assemblies on all three 240s I have. Clean the reflectors gently, clean the lens interior vertical flutes (some use drano) and UV resist Goop adhesive. Probably have to do better for the 700/900/800 glass lenses. The grey adhesive used at the factory always fails.
I'll read your LED bulb post here and get me some.
God Jul!!!!!
Eggnog and Fruitcake Boyeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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Merry Xmas,
Here's what i get when clicking Brickboard "profile":
----------------
Internal Server Error
The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.
Please contact the server administrator, webmaster@localhost and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error.
]ERR: 404: drawProfile.htm(1): Not found 'SubmitSearch.htm', searched: /var/www/html/RWD/SubmitSearch.htm;
Apache Embperl 2.5.0 [Sun Dec 25 16:38:20 2022]
-----------------------
I'm using Linux, abhor Microsoft, and dislike mainstream browsers.
Opensource Netsurf is my favorite for being the fastest and least toxic, but sadly is now rejected by Brickboard.
Mozilla is good for being open source, but it is an untrustworthy Google corrupted privacy invasion product. Hint: Opt out of Google if possible.
------------------------
The thing I removed in stock USA 940 and 850 headlights was a small metal
baffle that partially surrounds the halogen lamp. I'm unable to upload photos but they just press into the reflector assembly. They can easily be replaced.
Goto Walmart on-line and order the Lasfit LCplus 50 watt 9003 dual beam LED for the 240: $39.00
Take the money out of the eggnog funds.
It's as easy to install as your standard 9003 heater units.
I didn't need to mess with the bulb out sensor in the 940.
You should see a big improvement, probably at least double the light output.
Probably profiles work for you with Windoze, give me an email or phone call.
Cheers, Bill
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Hiya Uncle Bill,
Happy Christmas Eggnog Holidays!!!!
Yeah, it appears Jarrod is changing the way we can see or not see other BrickBoard member. I can see my profile when logged in yet cannot see yours. Jarrod is making changes.
The 1986+ US DOT rotten terrible awful, awful, awful headlamps use 9004 bulbs. Exterior lighting including the 1986+ US market Valeo brand taillights are awful, also. The Hella or Bosch taillights were okay yet did not use the dual filament 1157 park light / brake light bulbs. The hipsters would place bulb and bulb holders in the wrong position and melt stuff.
I read Netsurf does not include a JavaScript run time. I can use Opera 12.18, using the Presto for rendering, for Windows without JavaScript here on the LOL Cat BrickBoard. Final for Opera 12 on Linux, before Beijing Kunlun Tech Co., Ltd. (Zhou Yahui) and Keeneyes Future Holdings Inc (Zhou Yahui) bought Norwegian Opera company. Have you tried Vivaldi browser? Yet modern Opera and Vivaldi are Chromium browsers.
Here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_web_browsers
A few browsers for Linux:
- WaterFox: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterfox
I guess that's it. I use CLI Lynx on HPUX in the 1990s.
- Gnome? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNOME_Web
- Midori? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Midori_(web_browser)
Does your Linux version publisher offer browsers they keep up to date?
I'll get some 9004 LED bulb and adjust the height soon.
As for private browsing, the networks we use are not so private. Maybe use a VPN? How anonymous can it be? There is no privacy anymore if you use a network.
Like the BrickPix, I guess Jarrod has plan for BrickBoard members profiles in development? Why we can see other's profiles for now and you get the error message.
All I do is hosted on Windows. I see browser options dwindling on the open source or free Linux for years. I dunno what HP-UX or IBM or like Unix offers anymore for browsing and productivity and design unless very large and expensive.
Whaddya think?
Happy Egg Nawg Holidays!!!! Best when over!!!!
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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I have a 1993 945 with TYC e-code lights.
Using the 50 watt Lasfit LC plus H4/9003 which only differs by having a
different plug than the USA models.
I did not have to modify the bulb out sensor.
There's a very sharp high cutoff with the e-code lenses so I don't bother
oncoming cars even with the highs on.
I just got a backup set of "60 watt" Lasfit LA Plus LEDs to have on hand
and they bench tested to 25 watts per bulb, both in high and low mode.
So I'm returning these as not up to specs.
It alternates between high and low LEDs instead of having the low and high
beams on together. It features current/power limiting to 25 Watts per bulb.
The Lasfit LC plus installed July 2021 tested:
Left Hi/Low 40.6/28.0 watts
Right Hi/Low 36.4/23.8 watts
These are about $40 at Ebay or Walmart on-line
Lasfit exceeded their specs on the first set purchased last summer, but
flunked out with their pricier LA Plus LEDs.
I was looking at Hikari's "12000 lumen" set and noted "Fuzzy specifications".
I don't think they had the wattage for each lamp? Is that right?
On-line LED headlight specs are frequently a work of fiction.
(Some are hawking 2500 watt LEDs)
Would you measure the current flow of your Hikari's ?
Do they draw the same current high and low?
You can look at them with welding glasses to see if all of the LEDs are used
or only half are on at a time.
I removed the metal baffle surrounding the halogen lamps.
They can be put back easily, but just block light, so they're staying out.
Bill
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Thanks for responding, Bill. I've read a couple of threads by you (and more posts) on this topic, and appreciate you taking the time to share your experience. Ultimately, converting to E codes would be the best option, regardless of illumination source. But that's not in the cards at this time.
As far as the stated consumption on my Hikari Thunder Series, they don't state it on the site, or on the packaging, but in the included manual it states "Wattage - 46W/SET (23W/BULB x2)." That's the only spec, no distinction between regular and dipped beam. Now what's especially fuzzy about that is the manual is for all bulb types, and they clearly state in the same Specifications page from which I quoted, that this includes H1, H4, H7, H11, and so on. So even if they are quoting for main beam, that doesn't cover all types. And if dipped, well what's the quote on main? I can say that these Thunders are not only significantly brighter, but significantly higher cutoff as well (as they should be). This is my first experience with a shared main /dipped in the same bulb / reflector setup, and I was pleasantly surprised at the difference.
The skeptic in me agrees with you that the stated specs tend to be optimistic. However, that's not really a concern of mine, as I feel (in this application, and as adjusted) that these may actually be too bright. The Hikari bulbs I used previously were the 2018 or 2019 equivilant, but advertised as 9600lm. Granted those were installed in a different car (7th gen Civic). I thought those exceeded my expectations every time I drove with them. What gets me about the 12,000lm in the 940 is the way the road signs reflect back at me. I feel they are bright enough to stop down my pupils, making these bright lamps actually less effective in practice. Now I have to admit that not only have I not driven far in the dark since the install - probably two miles, but I haven't driven much at all at night since last winter. And then, it was either in our BMW or P3 Volvo, both with factory Xenon projectors. An anecdote: When I had my V50, with halogen projectors, every autumn I'd change the bulbs, and re-aim, somehow hoping to get decent light out of them. Like my eyes forgot just how bad they were. Maybe the opposite is taking place here :-). Anyway, all that to say I think these bulbs are bright enough, and if I could go back to 9600lm, I would.
As far as testing what I have for the sake of science, I have to admit I'm lazy to go out in this cold snap we've had in the northeast. It should get out of freezing tomorrow, but will still be cloudy. I'll see what I can do about getting outside (I have no garage for this car, and the garage space I do have isn't heated). How do you measure the wattage, ammeter in series with the bulb? I have a self-dimming welding mask for Arc - that should work for the visual check.
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Hi __?__,
I wouldn't take seriously the specs for lumens by the LED merchants.
The specs are from the sales department and NOT engineers.
For instance, your 12000 lumen set may be the total for both lamps
and high and low beams? 3000 lumens per high and low beam X2.
The real data sheets for these products are tucked away somewhere.
How to measure current flow (different options) see these posts.
This is very handy for troubleshooting.
How to determine current flow in a fused circuit 900
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1684929/740/760/780/1989_volvo_745t_main_supply_30amp_fuse_resolved.html
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1684975/940/960/980/V90/S90/fuse_circuit_tester.html
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1685010/940/960/980/V90/S90/review_harbor_freight_30a_fuse_circuit_tester_67724.html
I made a plug out of a dead ATC fuse to make it handy to measure current flow at fuse sockets with my VOM and was limited to 10 amps max.
Later used the plug with a 50 amp analog ammeter/shunt found at ebay for about $15.
I'll update that post to show how easy it is to do.
Where in the Northeast are you? I'm near Boston.
Bill
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Because I tend to forget things, I'll answer last Q first: I'm in CT, 20 mins SW of Hartford. I love visiting Boston, cities in general (I'm in a little town because it's where my SO and I were both working when we moved, and schools had a good reputation). We were last in beantown in Feb, and I shot quite a few rolls of Kentmere PAN 400 film on the street, while enjoying the free bus service. We stayed downtown at the Seaport hotel, right across from the wharf. I brought my a bike, and before the kids awoke, did some some exploring with my camera a couple of early mornings. One morning it was 15 degrees. I'm not one for cold, but I managed. You need to be careful what you lube your tripod with, if you're taking it out in that weather, hehe. I packed it in when I realized I wasn't devoted enough to reload film in my 1959 Leica M1 (they load from the bottom, not the back) with bare hands in that weather. I'm a super amateur shutterbug, and even less adept at developing. Nevertheless, I am pleased with the results. Probably having more to do with the vibe of Boston, than my skills. I've uploaded some of the shots here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/195142414@N02/ Anyway, it was a great trip that the kids still talk about. We did literally nothing other than pretend we were townies. But that's how a city can be if you don't get to spend much time in one. Growing up, I (and my wife) lived in Fairfield county, CT, which is like an NYC suburb. So if you're thinking "cities are a hassle, what's that guy talking about?" I get it. That's how NY became for me, even though I never worked there.
Returning to the bulbs: I think the 12k lm 9004s I have presently might actually compare to the 9006s I had in my old Honda. As you say, they are likely quoting full, max everything, and the 9006s are low / dipped only, not both. So the big difference I'm seeing is either bad aiming on my part, or scattered light pattern from the Cibie lenses. Ultimately I'll blame the pattern, as the lack of a defined cutoff is making me question my aiming skills. Of course someone with more experience would be able to work around that. So I'll reiterate that I'm fine with the output of these bulbs, whatever that may be. More lumens won't help. I'm seeing street signs lit up during the day, mind you. Interestingly, my wife drove the 940 for the very first time last night to bring the kids to their Lego League (wish that existed when I was a kid), so she's driven the car at night more than I have at this point! She had no complaints about the lighting, or anything else (whew!). So a lot of this might be me.
As for the measuring procedure, thanks for spelling it out. Measuring at the fusebox seems simpler (and much more comfortable) than what I was thinking. My dad was an electrical engineer, and I learned some skills growing up (like how to solder properly), but my intuition is lacking in this area. Anyway, my VOM is rated to 400 amps, but that's inductive, and AC only. It seems the unit I have (a $70-ish Southwire handheld from the blue big-box home store) may not even measure current at all at the leads. I don't have it handy to confirm, but I'll take a look later (left it in my shared home office, and my wife is on a video chat for work). Honestly, if I don't have a tool that can measure this, I won't. It's not that important to me. I would like to know if the left and right bulbs differ, though. Kittysgreyvolvo's reply suggests that the differential between left and right could be more of an issue than the actual draw difference between these bulbs and the (matching) halogens I replaced.
Thanks again. I think I really need a better solution than pushing more lumens through an inferior diffuser. I may end up doing e-codes eventually - so far I'm really liking this car. But I'll have to save up for that one, and was hoping for an easy, inexpensive stopgap in the meantime.
-Wilson
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Hi Wilson,
I found the long post in my email and had to fish around to find it buried in the thread.
You're a sturdy one to bike around Beantown in February.
OK on the film cameras, my friend is an addict but my 35MM stuff is in the closet collecting dust, and now I use only a long zoom point and shoot Nikon P510.
It's made in China and is terrific.
You want to measure DC amps for auto troubleshooting and the usual VOMs have 0-2 and many have a special port for 10 Amps.
See the latest post for the link to your Greenbook.
Now I'm off to the sack so I can get up and watch Croatia and Morocco duke it out
for 3rd place in the world cup. 10AM EST kickoff on Fox. Two very good teams, should be a low scoring defensive battle . Tune in same time Sunday for the big showdown.
Cheers, Bill
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Oh yeah, I went off on a tangent for sure. That was the kind of post where the editor in me knew I should go back and delete at least two thirds of it. But I figured Ya'll should be aware of just what kind of deviant you are aiding and abetting.
Thanks for the links!
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somewhere there is a big red round relay thing that is responsible for a lot of grief in Volvo's and I believe there is a wire you can clip and get rid of those silly dashboard warnings. black tape can work too , or remove the bulb. After that just look when you drive at night and check your bulbs by the reflection in nearby windows.
Volvo made pretty safe cars, with the exception of the tail light wiring. i converted my 240 to normal bulb holders. The silly printed circuit board connections were an example of really terrible engineering. It seemed to get worse with even thinner PCB traces as time went on. often the problem is the spring loaded contact on the bulb holder isnt; making a good contact and to fix that you need to replace the PCB, or replace the sockets with better ones that don't fail so often. if you remove the bulb and replace it , often the PCB board won't make contact because it is very poorly engineered. the clips get bent up and the very thin traces on the PCB board were cheapened down to the point of them being an issue for almost every Volvo. in my 740 wagon the bulbs are also in a place where there is not enough room for human hand to fit to install the connectors and they need ot fit in a certain way.
If you do remove them , first mark the top of each so you know the correct orientation when putting them back. like the bulbs they push in and turn a bit.
if you look at your headlights you should see basically a tin plate that is mounted to the inner fender. You might remove the airbox for room. I had a dim drivers side headlight in my 740 due to bad grounds right there. a bad ground increases the circuit resistance.
in some cars you will find there is actually an unused tail lamp. It was used in Europe. If you want you can add a bulb holder and fill that unused tail lamp socket. make it an extra brake light or a signal light.
the OEM alternator can handle original style bulbs. lots of people add LED's and don't add the resistor, then you see cars with headlights that flash and flicker, which is extremely annoying. blinding oncoming traffic is unsafe too.
If you want more light I'd just add OEM style non LED driving lights, the car should be fitted with wiring for them. Not everyone bought the option but I think it was always fitted in the wiring harness. you might find an empty connector up around the headlights that was intended for that.
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Hi Phil. So much good info in your post. I'm giving consideration to it all. Right now, I don't have time to discuss it all, and will be traveling tomorrow. So I'll just respond to the last bit. Just yesterday, I was perusing the Chiltons manual I just received, and the book had a section on adding aftermarket lights, which noted the unused wiring you mention. Given my book covers basically every Volvo made during that decade, I didn't assume it applies to my car, and I have yet to check. After reading that, however, I got to thinking about adding driving lights. I've never had a set of good ones, but it would end up looking basically stock, and might just solve all my issues. If the wiring's already there, so much the better! I'm certainly going to explore that path. Thanks for everything.
-Wilson
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