A worn key is a distinct possibility. Coupled with worn tumbler pins in the most frequently used locks (ignition and driver door) it can start making for a problem. Initially wiggling a key may help. A bent key doesn't help if it binds in the keyway or tumbler pins don't ride properly.

If trying a spare key works well then a locksmith should be able to trace cut another key if they can find an aftermarket blank. Note that there are two types of keys that came with the car, the master key that fits all locks and the valet key that only does the door and ignition. The difference is only the blank keyway slots, not the cut. When you try a spare key, if it doesn't work in the trunk then that's why. Also, Volvo sells both types of key blanks, but locksmiths can usually only get the master blank unless they go through Volvo.

If trying an alternate key isn't an improvement then consider having a new key properly cut as you did last time. Some locksmiths may be better at this than others.

Start off by talking to your local Volvo Dealer Service to see if thay can make the key. First off, the genuine Volvo keys are stainless steel quality that don't wear as quickly and aren't easily bent, unlike most of the generic blanks available. The key code number was in the Owner Manual. It was not stamped on the keys. If you no longer have the manual then the dealer can get the key code from Volvo using the VIN (presumably wanting proof of ownership). Your dealer has (at least used to have) a key punch and die kit that punches a proper new key rather than cut grinding. For a well used key cutter at the dealer, the dies as they got worn would sometimes cut less than a perfect key that may be difficut to use in some or all locks. Burnishing the key heavily with a wire wheel, multiple times if necessary, would usually get the key working properly.

Failing the dealer being able to help, most locksmiths, like the one you used before, should be able to cut a reasonable facsimile starting with the VIN and waiting for a response from Volvo. Sometimes they also need to order the blank from Volvo if they can't find an aftermarket blank, also meaning you get a good quality key. You can tell a genuine key as it should be the only one with the trademarked Volvo name on it. Ideally, have the car at the locksmith shop or use a mobile locksmith so they can ensure the key works smoothly and can lubricate the locks and burnish the keys as needed.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi,

In reading your post the part about having a twisted key is concerning but the California coldness comparison to other state side climates would have little to do with the internals of the locks tumblers per say.
In my opinion a twisted key hasn’t done the inserting slot channels in the lock any good.
So like you handle on the post old but goodly-worn could be the case at this point.

The pins in the cylinder have to pushed up their required amounts in order to rotate through other channels provided in the circumference of cylinder.
The vertical alignment is done from the sides of the insertion slot.

I would at least flatten the key straight a long time ago.
I have bent my keys before while still in my pockets from laying on my keys with more than just change in the pocket. A twisted key is from other forces and probably from our own doing.

Does a door lock or the trunk lock could have contributed but in my case I have several Volvos and I usually pick the wrong key or the wrong car was in my absentmindedness.
With that I try to be aware of how much pressure to put on the key.
A bent key is bad enough but a twisted one doesn’t do any good to the lock it got twisted in or those after it.
The continual use of it in, one lock over and over, will take its toll.

I suggest straightening the key or use another one altogether would be best.
You might try using some graphite powder blown into the lock to help minimize more tumbler and groove wear in the damaged cylinder.
The tumbler pins can shave loose fragments and those turn into rocks or a grit like substance that needs to move on down inside the lock. The graphite can help with all of that.
You can get in dry or wet formulations with the wet being more of an evaporating solvent if you suspect gummy gunk has entered into the scene a long the way.
Luckily on our 240s the cylinders have never been pointed upwards into the air to catch who know what, especially, cigarette ashes.
The new cars, with all the gadgets in the steering wheels, have issues that are lot more complex from human interaction too.

Hope this helps zero in on your problem and provide some guidance as to what you may be dealing with.

Phil

Glad to hear things are at least somewhat back to normal.

I'm not a locksmith, or a pro mechanic. But it seems to me that either wear in the lock cylinder, wear in the key, or (very likely) the twist in the key, perhaps a combination of those factors, is causing the pins in the cylinder to not fully engage. This is permitting the lock to turn, but with much friction. The sound you heard after starting was the starter motor pinion failing to disengage with the ring gear on the flexplate. This occurred since the friction in the ignition cylinder was greater than what the return spring could overcome.

The issue seems better now, but I suspect it will return. Trying to straighten the key would be my first step. It should be brass, a very malleable material that should straighten easily. A bench vise with brass jaw inserts would be the ideal tool to hold the key while you twist it back, but you can improvise. If the key looks worn, maybe just have another made. Not a copy of that, but a new one by someone who can do it from the code (dealer). Do you happen to have a spare - even the service / valet key, to compare?

Good thought on the ambient temp, but living in New England all my life, much of that with older cars, has never presented this issue with an ignition key. Door locks, sure. The tailgate latch on my 945 is frozen as I type this. There are lock lubricants, which I use, but I wouldn't do it for the ignition unless out of the column, for fear the stuff might make its way into the switch located at the end of that cylinder.

Hope this can help - Wilson.