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Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

My 940 sedan has the Brake Fault dash light coming on when I brake. I read the posts here but didn't see that anyone mentioned where the sensor is.
Thanks!
--
Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running








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    Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

    The ABS sensor fits into the steering knuckle and held in place by an Allen set screw. (Both front wheels)

    Are there any OBD codes?

    Bill








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      Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

      Thanks Bill,
      I feel pretty ignorant! The Brake Fault was cause by a burned out 3rd wheel bulb.
      All is okay now. The hardest part of changing the bulb was getting the plastic cover off. It is best to pry the cover by spreading it horizontally a little. I cracked mine but had some Super glue to mend the crack.
      --
      Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running








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        Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

        Glad you solved your issue, but now you have me stumped.

        What's a 3rd wheel bulb? Please elaborate.

        Bill








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          Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

          Hi B.B.,
          The bulb in the rear window, if out, is compared to the rear tail lights and if any of the 3 bulbs are out, the dash light will come on. Sorry to use bad terminology.
          There were some good tips about other things in this string of posts.
          --
          Mine:3-940s running; 1-740, 2-940 parts; dtrs:4-940s running








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            Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

            Hi JD620 (A name would be better, this isn't the KGB)

            Thanks for posting back.

            According to CECindustries, major auto filament lamp manufacturer:

            Use lamp 7528 for the two stop lights, and 7506 for the high (3rd) stop light.
            It's important to make the bulb out sensor happy.

            Happy motoring, Bill








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          Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

          I wondered, too, about a 3rd wheel ABS sensor bulb. No such animal. I think the OP discovered it wasn't a brake system failure dash indicator, but rather a bulb out indicator caused by a burned out 3rd brake light. When touching the brake pedal and a dash indicator illuminated he assumed it was a brake system failure, easy to do if you don't look carefully at the symbol. As the OP mentioned, removing the cover off the 3rd brake lamp assembly requires looking carefully to note a side grip and if you get carried away can break an internal tab.
          --
          Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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            Brake Fault Sensor, Where is it? 900 1994

            Hi Dave, Thanks for clarifying the confusion here.

            Do you know of any photo's to illustrate how to remove the 3rd 940 brake light
            safely without needing Crazy Glue or whatever afterwards?
            I miss the local Junkyard University full of Volvo's to play with.

            Also do you know of any easy ways to remove rear lights sockets in the 945?
            My big hands don't fit in the small cutout for the lights.
            The cutout is a cunning design to draw blood from my big hands.
            I have resorted to pulling the whole tail light assembly which is some annoying.

            Thanks, Bill








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              Taillght bulb holder access in 700/900 wagons 900 1994

              You've asked the right person here, Bill. With two 940 wagons I've definitely skinned a few hands trying to get at the taillight bulb holders over the years, especially the top and bottom bulbs. Even if you get the holders out, it's a pain to reinstall them in the proper orientation, also avoiding wiring that gets in the way and contact fingers getting caught up on each other. Being able to see what you're doing is as big a probem as skinning flesh on the sharp edges of body cutouts.

              If you can't do it in the first couple of tries then it's totally worth removing the entire taillight assembly for proper access. It's also a good opportunity to clean things up, such as dirt around the foam rubber gasket. Just make sure when you button things up that the gasket is aligned and well sealed.

              You need a 10 mm deep socket (1/4" preferable) to get over the long threaded studs. I use a nut driver along with a short and longer 1/4" extension. It's so simple I can now work blindfolded in the dark. You need to keep a finger on the back edge of the flanged nut as you remove and reinstall it over the tip of the threaded stud so it doesn't drop down into the body crevices -after a couple of times you won't forget, I promise. You will need to remove the side storage well panels for access to the lower nuts through the double holes in the body metal. If you don't have a deep socket set then you can buy the individual socket, either way totally worth it. Doing it with an open end wrench or a shallow socket in pliers isn't at all convenient and you'll be skinning yourself again.

              As for the 3rd taillight housings, in wagons they shouldn't be hard to do. They slide more or less straight up without too much effort, pinching them in firlmy at the sides and rocking them a bit side to side. On that same topic in wagons, I had occasion to replace the rear glass (a small, sharp fragment of rock flung by my lawn mower -lesson learned there never to have the shute pointed anywhere important). The replacement glass was set in urethane tape, not the orinal thick butyl gasket, so there's now a 1/8" gap around the 3rd brakelight housing that reflects light out the side. My quick fix is filling the gap with a sticky ribbon of black butyl caulk, available in spools in the glass/insulation section of better hardware stores. I use that butyl caulk in a number of places, such as waterproofing holes, caulking old rubber grommets/seals, tacking wire bundles neatly out of the way and holding down interior plastic panels and trim where the fastener has snapped or gone missing or the plastic has cracked. It remains flexible and can be peeled open at any time with minimal effort. Just keep the sticky butyl fairly hidden so it doesn't attract too much dirt and hair.
              --
              Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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                Taillght bulb holder access in 700/900 wagons and the Event Horizon 900 1994

                Thanks for the comments Dave,

                >You need to keep a finger on the back edge of the flanged nut as you remove and >reinstall it over the tip of the threaded stud so it doesn't drop down into the >body crevices -after a couple of times you won't forget, I promise.

                I fully understand that what you refer to as body crevices is really a gravity well, and my next adventure with the taillight assembly I'll place a small towel underneath to catch the nuts as they attempt to reach the event horizon, a mysterious place (or places) of no return for dropped parts and tools in every car.

                Cheers, Bill








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                  Taillght bulb holder access in 700/900 wagons and the Event Horizon 900 1994

                  Dear B.B.,

                  Hope you're well and stay so. To ease wagon tail-light cluster removal and re-installation, use a "dab" of butyl rubber to capture the 10mm flange nuts, that secure each cluster.

                  Put the butyl "dab" at the edge of the 10mm deep socket and slide the socket over the cluster's mounting stud, till the socket engages the nut. Then, turn-out the nut in the usual way. The butyl will keep the nut attached to the socket.

                  This will save the time and energy needed to retrieve the nut(s) from the storage wells beneath the small load space floor side-panels.

                  Hope this helps.

                  Yours faithfully,

                  Spook








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                    Taillght bulb holder access in 700/900 wagons and the Event Horizon 900 1994

                    Something sticky to hold the nut in the socket certainly helps, but for the flanged nuts in that particular location in wagons, when you pull the socket out through the openings it's too easy to catch the flange on body metal at the openings and have the nut pulled off and drop down. Because there's an unthreaded tip on the bolt, you can back it fully off the threads without the bolt dropping down and a finger over the back edge of the socket during extraction through the openings works well there, quick and easy to do, also less messy. Often a wayward nut just ends up in the bottom of the storage wells anyway.
                    --
                    Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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                    Butyl rubber, Duckseal, Coax seal 900 1994

                    Hi Spook,

                    I found a blob of that stuff stuck on the inside of a rear sheet metal panel to hold some tail-light wires from flying around and getting into trouble, and some
                    inside the drivers door. I think the body shops love this stuff.

                    Using Butyl to hold nuts in sockets:
                    I've used Coax-Seal for that sometimes. This is putty/clay like stuff on a roll
                    that is used to weatherproof connectors outside.
                    I see Butyl comes in tubes and rolls of tape, I imagine the tubes turn into concrete after so many years, and they suggest putting the tube in hot water for 20 minutes to get it workable, especially in cold weather.
                    Is Duckseal that Ma Bell and electricians use the same as Butyl rubber?
                    Where do you get yours?

                    Best regards, Bill








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                      Butyl rubber, Duckseal, Coax seal 900 1994

                      Dear B.B.,

                      Hope you're well and stay so. I have a supply obtained long ago.

                      If I had to replenish, I'd consider: https://www.amazon.com/Butyl-Construction-Building-Sealer-Weatherproof/dp/B075KQ8WCX .

                      I've no view as to shelf life of butyl rubber caulk.

                      Hope this helps.

                      Yours faithfully,

                      Spook








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                        Butyl rubber, Duckseal, Coax seal 900 1994

                        I often will just wrap the nut with black tape or if it's a Philips or Allen head screw just tape it to the end of your scrwdriver or allen key. once the threads are started you can remove the tape if you like. if it's a nut the tape just makes the socket sort of an interference fit.
                        I have a 740 wagon and the bulbs are hard to reach. I
                        I'd suggest making a mark on the bulb holder before removal so you know which way is up. laying rags down to prevent lost parts is always a worthwhile exercise because finding some special nut or spring or collar can sometimes take hours.
                        I didn't have a place with a floor to work Just a tent so I laid all my planks down and stapled tarpaper over that. Now i have sort of a makeshift floor, It beats working in gravel. sometimes I'll just lay some plywood down for the job.







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