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1992 740 with Volvo Burglar alarm starter not always working with solenoid. Is there a relay?

I have a 1992 740 Turbo wagon. I bought the car in 2008 and it came with a Volvo Burglar alarm installed. Every once in awhile I can. Not get the car to start with the key. I recently had the engine out to refresh and installed a new starter. I still have the same issue. I’m thinking it might have something to do with the burglar alarm. Is there a relay perhaps that triggers the starter that is part of this system? Thanks for any information. I have known two other individuals that have owned the same year Volvo with the same burglar alarm and they have had the same issue.








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    1992 740 with Volvo Burglar alarm starter not always working with solenoid. Is there a relay?

    Looking at a 940 electrical manual, in the car alarm section, there is an added device in the starter solenoid wire circuit called a "transfer box alarm", obviously some kind of relay. I presume it prevents cranking when the alarm is activated. I suppose the relay solder joints inside could crack (most likely) or the relay contacts could become worn or pitted from use. Either could cause intermittent starting problems, preventing cranking.

    The schematic doesn't show where it lives, but I suspect it's in the relay tray. The blue-green wire that goes to the starter solenoid comes from the trans shifter PNP switch connector. That connector lives on the tunnel under the front of the relay tray below the cross bar under the ash tray. At installation, that blue-green wire is cut and connected to pins 1 & 2 of the transfer alarm box.

    During a no-start, if you don't see 12V at the starter solenoid when the ignition switch is in start, KP-III, then a failure in the alarm box becomes one of a few possibilities. Alternately, if you apply battery +12V to the solenoid and it now cranks then 12V was not getting to the solenoid. If you can find the alarm box then for testing purposes, if you pull the alarm box out of it's connector, you could try inserting a jumper (like a paper clip) between socket pins 1 & 2 to see if it will now cranks.

    If that works then for a temporary fix, push out or cut short the blue-green wires on pins 1 & 2 of the socket connector and jumper them together., then re-inserting the alarm box. You will still have the alarm, but there would be no starter lockout function. You can then either replace the alarm box at your leisure, or try to repair it by opening it up and re-flowing the main solder joints for the internal relay, or you can just keep going forever without starter lockout.

    I presume you've done all the previously suggested testing to isolate the problem to not getting 12V at the starter solenoid. If it's not that transfer alarm box then the PNP switch would be the most likely candidate in my experience., followed by tge ignition switch. Both are common problems at this age for our RWDs.
    --
    Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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      1992 740 with Volvo Burglar alarm starter not always working with solenoid. Is there a relay?

      I have a 88 ford van and a 89 volvo 74), both have similar alarms and I believe they may have been aftermarked devices that were added, maybe it was an option, not sure. they have key fobs that look similar.

      The starter motor has a solenoid that pulls in the armature, causing the ring gear to engage and that also makes the large set of contacts which run the motor.If You have replaced the starter, you have already effectively replaced that "solenoid" - on some cars this was a separate item, outboard motors tend to be like that. some cars had a bendix on the starter which tended to be problematic , the volvo starter is pretty reliable.

      i'd put a small indictator lamp to ground and to the hot wire ( basically from key to starter) if the lamp lights the starter is getting the power to the relay.
      how about hooking up an indicator permanently, at least until you resolve the real problem so you can monitor if there is power there right at the wire to the starter when you have the issue. if you can sort out which key wire gets hot in position 3 then you could also monitor there at the wire from the key, if it's intermittent sometimes lamps like this can help see what's going on at the time of failure.


      check your battery connections out properly just in case it's anything that obvious.

      you can make a simple alarm system with 3, 3 position toggle switches. wire it so if each switch is in a certain position ( like up , middle , down ) you get power through to the starter. I'd instead switch the fuel pump.. then run every other possible connection to the horn. take power from key position 1 or 2 , then if someone gets in and tries to start it, SO long as you have switched at least one of the switches, it wont start, If he manages to turn the key somehow he wont get further that way.

      instead of the car starting it just sounds the horn. a then if wont think his way through all the possibilities before he leaves after he honks the horn he's likely going to leave unless he's particularly determined.

      you could put the three switches where you like , they dont need to be near each other. you could use a siren if you wanted.

      this is a cheap way, all you need is 3 switches, it could be done with 1 switch or many, once you get the rather simplistic idea you could choose how complex or simple to wire that up.


















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    Maybe it's a chronic intermittant starter motor circuit?

    Do you have a link to the 1992 Volvo wiring book?
    I have the 1989 book and there's no Volvo alarm.

    It may not be the alarm since I had a chronic intermittent no-start with my
    89 740 and spent a lot of time troubleshooting with no joy.
    When it refused to start I would open the hood and short the starter solenoid terminals (with the ignition key in run) with a long screwdriver and it would start right up. It might fail to restart anytime afterwards, or decide to behave normally for months. This makes troubleshooting ugly.
    It was this way with two starter motors.

    To remove the starter:
    To get the top starter motor bolt out required a short 3/8' swivel socket NOT a socket with a swivel attachment because the bolt with the wrong socket on it will jam up against the firewall. Without that special socket you'll be there
    cursing with an open end or box wrench for a long time.

    You could try starting with the service port in the engine bay to see if your
    ignition switch is intermittent. I never tried that, but would now.
    That port is a single pole connector in the engine bay over the drivers side wheel up high, look for the harness.
    Just apply +12Volts to it to spin the starter.
    I wondered if the solenoid might need extra high current sometimes?
    I never installed a new solenoid so maybe OEM solenoids can get funky / hangup
    and require extra current to engage?

    This problem had me stumped. except for the workaround with shorting the
    starter solenoid lugs to start. I'd love to know what the culprit is.

    Bill







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