New clutch kit installed during overhaul. Problem is, clutch does not fully disengage from flywheel when the pedal is to the floor. The fork arm contacts the forward edge of the opening in the bell housing, before it can travel that last bit of distance needed for release. Arm doesn’t appear to be bent, free play adjustment no help. T/O bearing just doesn’t contact the face of the p/p fingers soon enough in it’s travel in order to fully release the disc
I don’t mind tearing into this thing again, but I would like to exhaust every external possibility before doing so. Suggestions appreciated. Mike.

When those clutch arms crack they become kind of “springy” such that everything looks OK and seems to be pushing on the TO bearing as it should, but it’s not really pushing the TO bearing very far because it’s bending. Then you release the pedal and the arm springs back to its normal position. When mine cracked the crack was inside the boot and not easily seen at first.
Also, are you sure the ball end of the arm is properly seated on the pivot point?

Which clutch kit did you use? I hope it was a F&S(Fitchel & Sachs) kit.

If the clutch release arm is faulty, I strongly suggest you don't use the new 1 that has "Sameer" stamped into the back currently being sold.
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Yeah. It’s pretty much got to be the arm. Kit is F&S and little as can be seen through that hole in the bell housing, I just can’t see anything out of whack that would explain this. I may try a new cable, but I really don’t think that’s the problem. Thanks guys.

Update: everything looks good. I think I’ve got hold of the wrong clutch kit.
The p/p isn’t nearly the same height as the original (which I still have on hand). OEM
p/p is stamped “Volvo” and is obviously a much heavier pc. than the F&S kit I bought to replace it.
I’m going to use the OEM part, I just need a disc that will work with it. Trouble is I get conflicting info
from inet sites as to which disc will fit this situation. The one I see promoted most often is a Sachs #
1861352444. It looks like it will work, but some sites don’t list it as appropriate for this engine /trans.
Any ideas?

As Erik says, the F&S clutch kit is fine. It is essential that you use the release bearing that comes with the kit. Yes it has some plastic in the construction and does look a bit flimsy in comparison with the all steel ones. If you have fitted a steel one it is likely 6.5mm different in height and that is why you are having problems. Been there, paid the garage twice!. All the discs are the same B18/B20, even B20 in the 240.Look at the details here. It's the pressure cover that is different. Except in desperation, always fit a complete kit, as the diaphragm spring will have weakened over the miles.

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/parts.asp?carID=2&cID=31&scID=152&page=A_B18_and_B20_Clutch_and_Bearings

Just to be clear, it's critical that matching parts are used, even the clutch disc is different.

So, the clutch pressure plate, clutch disc and release bearings should match as all 3 parts are different between F&S and B&B styles of clutches.

I can't remember if I mentioned it, but a clutch replacement was our 1st major repair we ever did on our 1967 122S back in 1979 and we found out the hard way back then about mismatched clutch parts.

I even have a memento from that day as I still have the Levi jeans I wore that day. I sat on a stool that had a leaking battery previously sitting on it and when I washed the pants, the seat bottom was shredded, so I paid a taylor to patch it and I rarely worn them again and I can't fit in them now!
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

All I can say is that the parts installed were a single clutch package manufactured by F and S.
The engine and transmission are removed. When the clutch kit is bolted to the flywheel, there is very little distance remaining between the center hub of the disc, and the splines of the p/p. I don’t think there is enough to allow the t/o bearing to disengage the assembly before it makes contact with something it’s not intended to contact. It does seem that the parts are mismatched. That’s why I’m trying to identify which disc is supposed to be in this kit.