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Hello all,
After fixing a dead horn I can't clear the SRS light.
I found The OBD port pins not functional because the support material
(maybe silicone or rubber?) holding the female pins disintegrated.
After splicing in new female bullet pin assemblies from Dave Barton.
A2 and A6 return 1-1-1
A3 (ABS) is dead.
I get no sign of life from OBD port Port B2 Cruise control and
Port B5 SRS?
There's a "Safety Circuit / HIC" in the airbag SRS circuit.
Is there something there that needs to be reset?
Does anyone have the Volvo SRS docs?
TIA, Bill
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Have you chased the problem with suggestions in the FAQ's?
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalSRS.htm
--
Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal
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Hi Randy,
I started with the FAQ, and am looking for this Volvo publication.
SRS (Airbag) 940/960 1993 (TP-32224-1)
Maybe someone has it?
I'm concerned about the inactive OBD ports, so there's another job for the bucket list that might be the problem.
I'm more concerned with the sudden intermittent engine quitting, and trying to track that down. Could be a bad connection, a bad ground or connector.
I plan to revisit the AMM, CPS, and Ignition amp Bosch EFI connectors, See:
https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs
and some DC connections and grounds next.
Yesterday I finished installing new front SKF hubs (at 215,379 miles)
Have been getting 15 MPG 1/2 highway 1/2 around town, UGH!, and hopeful to see improvement in gas mileage.
The bearing cap on the original SKF OEM hub, has this stamped on it:
TORQUE
WHEEL NUTS
65FOOT LBS
85NM
(5X)
The new SKF brg caps had no printing.
What's the 5X about ?
Haynes and the Volvo pocket data book say 100 NM + 45 degrees.
I went with the 100 NM +45.
Bill
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A battery disconnect should do an SRS control module reset, just as it does for the ECU. For others reading here, SRS OBD procedures and codes are in the FAQ. The codes quickly narrow down the problem area.
Hate to say it, but an SRS light out of the blue is often a broken clockspring at the base of the steering wheel. The OBD code if you could get it would point to the driver airbag. If the light came on during hard turning like parking then almost certainly the clockspring, also if you've been working on the steering rack or column (steering column rotation changed). You don't need the SRS manual to replace it, just try doing a bit of research and watch a few videos. There is info in the FAQ and a bit of searching may turn up a few good posts here on clocksprings, including a few I probably did. Most important is knowing that the clockspring needs to be locked during removal/installation (advancing a locking screw between tabs), never turning the wheel when a locked clockspring is in place (breaks the clockspring), having the wheels pointed straight ahead during both removal and installation, prior to installation always checking that the clockspring is locked in the neutral/mid-spring position (able to rotate 4 turns tighter), and finally remembering to unlock it when you're done (bye-bye new clockspring). Other than that it's mostly just steering wheel removal and sourcing a new clockspring, good used is often simplest, they either work or they don't.
Beyond that, without a code, first thing I'd ask myself is where have I been working in recent history, like under the dash, footwell carpets, removing console side panels or playing with front seat. If you've been poking around under the driver seat from either front or rear then maybe check all connectors under the front seat.
If the SRS port in the diagnostic socket isn't working you could refer to the factory wiring diagrams for locating and troubleshooting the wiring to it. SRS airbag components use orange harnesses so easily spotted and avoided. Be absolutely careful and know what you're doing if you need to use a meter at the SRS control module connector. Best to locate and open the orange connector for each airbag before using a meter on the control module connector. Never use an ohmmeter on anything directly or indirectly connected to an airbag.
BTW I hope you didn't think the 65 ft-lbs on the old hub cap was for the hub nut rather than the wheel stud nuts. The 5X more than likely refers to the number of studs perhaps as a reminder that it applies to each stud individually, as if someone with a torque wrench wouldn't know that. Angle torques are mostly used in critical, torque to yield situations where a new fastener is called for. If you somehow decide to reuse a fastener that may have reached its stretch point, use less torque than called for to reduce the chance of failure. Some of those two step angle torques can be awkward to achieve unless you have an extra long breaker bar or use a cheater pipe. I picked up a 30" breaker in a surplus bin that I wasn't sure I really needed, but I've found a number of situations where it's been much more convenient than trying to use an extender, especially for angle tightening and places where thread locker may have been used. Problem with angle tightening is often getting enough clearance for the handle throughout the angle and not wanting to use a socket extension if you can help it. There are one step torques you can lookup as approximate equivalents, but the accuracy will vary considerably based on the condition of the threads, friction surfaces, materials and size of fitting. Those should be avoided in torque to yield applications.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Hi Dave,
I had the air bag out while troubleshooting the horn
You explained before about the clockspring being the likely culprit
when the wheel is turned 90 degrees and the horn quits.
I got the air bag out and the clockspring seemed OK with the meter
I cleaned with alcohol and some Q-tips and it checked OK with the ohmmeter.
The horn schematic on pg 90 shows the clockspring, with no part #, a single
ring and wiper to the two horn switches to ground.
No horn relay? That's a suprise.
Then grounding the BL-SB wire to the horns did nothing.
So I replaced all 4 badly corroded horn bullet connectors.
Dave Barton to the rescue.
Now the horn is OK and on reassembly the SRS light is on.
You see in the horn schematic only a single connection for the clockspring
for the Horn switches. With the Horn and SRS switches lumped together as
item 3/37 Horn contacts
Now looking at SRS schematic there's the air bag 8/30
with a dual circuit via the clockspring C121 C92 C91 to the SRS module.
The wire colors from the airbag to C91 are missing.
I don't recall the C92 and C91 connectors being involved?
I noticed only a single pole contact wiper
In the SRS schematic in the instrument cluster there's a fuse 11/41
10/77 the SRS idiot light both working
and Blackbox 4/5 "HIC" Safety Circuit, SRS Airbag.
What's with that?
There's sketchy info available, and lots of suggestions to go to the dealer
for SRS issues.
Here's the 900 Volvo manuals that I could find listed for SRS
There's multiple manuals for the same model year.
SRS (Airbag) 940/960 1993 (TP-32224-1)
SRS (Airbag) 940/960 1996 (TP-8804031)
SRS (Airbag) 940/960 1996 (TP-8804201)
SIPS BAG 960 1996 (TP-8806201)
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), 700/900 Including Pyrotechnical Seat Belt Tensioners for 1992 Model Year Only (TP-31404-1S-93)
SRS 940/960 1993 (TP-32181-1)
SRS (Airbag) 940/960 1993 (TP-32231-1)
SRS (Airbag) 940/960 1996 (TP-8804032)
SIPS BAG 960 1996 (TP-8806031)
SRS (Airbag) 960 1996 (TP-8808201)
Why so many manuals?
Thanks, Bill
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o The SRS HIC component (4/5) on the back of the instrument cluster stands for High Integrity Circuit -I had to look that up. There are various HICs used in SRS safety systems. In some, it's a second barrier to prevent an accidental discharge. In this case it's a safety circuit to make sure the SRS controller indicator lights if the controller is dead and unable to sense a crash as well as when a problem is detected by the controller. It's connected to SRS controller pin 1, which is an output from the SRS controller to say everything is okay. If that signal is missing, the HIC provides ground to the SRS lamp to illuminate it. It's a very simple circuit and not a known problem area, neither are SRS controllers unless they have been in a crash or been physically damaged such as being dented during seat removal (which along with any underbody deformity technically requires control module replacement no matter how slight the damage).
o Your clockspring remains a high suspect for the SRS light remaining lit. It would be nice to have the OBD code to verify this, but without a code to suggest otherwise I'd throughly test the clockspring and connections to the airbag. When the clockspring goes, the spring with the conductor wires for the air bag breaks, usually a total break meaning there will be no spring resistance, but it may initially be a partial break possibly affecting just one of the spring conductors. It sounds like when you checked the horn button ring circuit that you also checked the integrity through the clockspring of the two air bag wires in the orange connectors. If you got connectivity through the clockspring on the orange and orange/white wires on both ends then you need to follow up on that to make sure conductivity remains constant throughout the range of travel from lightly to tightly wound. That requires unlocking the clockspring. No problem to unlock it, just make sure when you re-lock it that it's in the neutral position with enough turns in the spring left to allow the steeering rack to reach end of travel well before the spring is fully tensioned, and in the opposite direction that the spring remains partially tensioned at the other end of steering travel, not fully or overly unwound to stress the spring in that direction. Basically you count the turns from fully relaxed to fully tensioned and lock it at the mid-point. If the mid-point is close to the locking tab, like within a 1/4 turn, then use that lock position, otherwise unwind it to the next lower lock position.
I knew I'd mentioned the clockspring to someone in recent history, but forgot it was you with your horn issue rather than someone with an SRS problem. Yes, there's somewhat suprisingly no horn relay as in older cars, which would likely have provided more power to the horns to get a louder and throatier beep rather than a roadrunner "meep". Probably a European thing, not DOT.
o For the hub studs, the proper way is to remove the hub and use a bench press. Volvo has a special tool (2862) to do this on-vehicle, basically a special c-clamp press designed for this purpose. I doubt there's a universal tool that's similar. The FAQ describes trying to drive them out with a hammer and pulling them back in using the lug nuts and a spacer https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/WheelsTires.htm#WheelStudRepair. Doing it on-vehicle, I wouldn't get too carried away with a hammer on a badly stuck stud for the sake of the bearings. I see there's a universal stud insert tool listed on FCPEuro, Lisle 22800. It's just a spacer with a tapered hole at one end to accept the taper of a lug nut and help keep the stud straight during tightening. Any similar solid spacer should do, like one or two oversized nuts. Replacement studs are commonly available, p/n 1359905 for the fronts, 1209295 for the solid axle rears, 3516057 for the multi-link live axle rears.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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Thanks Dave and others for the help.
The clockspring is OK.
I fluffed by ignoring oxidized OBD port wires.
Redid bad crimp job for three OBD port pins
New "and improved" OBD port splices got all the OBD ports working fine
using DeoxIT D-100L on the harness wires that were oxidized.
after two minutes I tried to tin the wires and no soap.
More D-100L and another few minutes, finally the wires tinned nicely
with 60/40 rosin core solder and Weller 35 watt iron.
Then crimp and solder with 18-22Ga non ins. butt connectors.
Finish with dual wall 3:1 shrink tube.
OBD port B5 reported 2-1-2
Disconnecting battery does not clear SRS code.
Cleared code with OBD port, and SRS Light out.
There's another way to clean badly oxidized copper wires that's worth trying:
I opted for D100L first and was not overwhelmed. I'll try this method next time.
Use a mix of Vinegar and salt and dip or soak the wire in this for several minutes. Maybe this is as good or better than pricey DeoxIT?
After the wire is clean and shiny, rinse with a mix of water and soda bicarb to neutralize the acid.
Maybe oxidized wires messed up Blindboy's parade when he replaced his RSR connector, another Bullet style connector?
Crimps, insulated and non insulated, vary widely in quality,
For the 18-22 gauge wire, tin plated copper butt connectors are good, and the best are expensive seamless tin plated Copper 110 alloy.
Use only the highest quality crimps. The cheap ones are rubbish.
A great tool for stripping the short 18 gauge OBD port wires was the Klein
11063W- It got in tight quarters and precision stripped the already short wires
without any hassle. You don't have much extra wire to play with.
This tool is also handy for household wiring too. $28.00 shipped @ Ebay today.
Happy motoring, Bill
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Hi Bill,
I saw your post the other day and read your remarks about how great the Klein wire strippers were.
I later went out to see what you were using and lo and behold I have had the same tool since my stint in the navy.
Now I have a story for you.
It has a name like “TRIG-O-MATIC”
SPEEDEX WIRE STRIPPER
SPEEDEX MFG. CO. Rockford, Illinois, USA.
Information casted in has the following.
Patent U.S.A. 2,313,733
Canada 414,214 PATS. PEND
Canada 482,497
PAT. 1952
BRITISH 666,264
I see now that maybe the 1952 could make sense as the ship was in service from 1940 to 1982.
So the tool might have been 20 years old at the time it was tossed into a broken tool or surplus box in our tool room.
So I may have engraved it to keep in my assigned tool box on board.
Kinda looks like my hand writing and I knew it wasn’t on its inventory but looked good.
🙂 I hid it in plain site, just in case something came of it, for at least a couple years. End of enlistment came and I just don’t throw things of value away.
I see where mine has a spring loaded thumb catch to leave the pulling jaw spread back after the strip and only resets closed for the next strip when released. It can be used along very quickly.
Yours has a cut off feature there.
Not sure if thats handy or not?
I assume the wire passes on through that hole to make house wiring of boxes faster.
I have to use a separate cutter but around our cars it’s not so crucial.
Klein makes nice tools but I’m sure it was not their invention unless Speedex was taken over.
I haven’t look for anything on them.
Thanks for sharing.
Phil
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Hi Phil,
Oldies and still goodies in the tool department.
I have an old Stripmaster by Ideal Ind Inc., with the cutter set for AWG 24-30.
Ideal is still in business but this cutter set is not in their new catalog.
https://www.idealind.com/us/en/shop/product-type/aerospace/stripmaster.html
scroll down to find the link to their catalog.
pg 148 stripmasters
pg 219 index
They're a competitor to Klein and cater to trade electricians for tools
and supplies. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_Industries
Happy motoring, Bill
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Hi Bill,
I took a look at the catalog and could see blade sets down a few pages.
I figured your tool must not be the right model or style.
Yes I also know about the IDEAL brand. They have been very prolific throughout many years.
In fact I was thinking that the tool was an IDEAL tool until I went and got them.
They sure have made tools more ergonomically engineered over the years.
They even make models for small hands. Guess that goes to show us, women now play a big role in product developments in their company.
Klein even sells screwdriver sets with both hard plastic handles and rubber cushion grips together.
I have a set so I’m getting softer in my old age. 🤫
Thank for sharing again.
Phil
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Intermittent failures are the worst, just give me a dead car and let me have a go at it.
I removed the hubs on one of our 940t in order to replace the brake dust shields. The book said the hubs should be replaced if removed, but at about 100K that wasn't going to happen. I carefully removed them and set them aside, replaced the shields and reinstalled the hubs.
I torqued to specs but that additional 45 degrees brought me right to the limit of my strength. That makes it easy for me if I ever have to do it again. I simply make it as tight as I am able.
Randy
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal
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Hi Randy,
I have a 3' piece of thin wall steel tube, looks like 1-1/2" EMT Electrical conduit. It's handy lever arm for stubborn stuff like hub nuts and wheel lug nuts torqued to 1200 ft/lbs by some tire ape when you're not looking.
Get the lug nut free or snap off the stud to free the tire.
Can you replace a broken stud in a hub?
I used that extension on with a 1/2" ratchet to crack the stubborn
caliper bracket screws. I had the car up higher, jacking up from a ramp,
to swing the breaker bar, learning from the fiasco on the other side.
I used it on the torque wrench and 3/4" HF breaker bar to get the +45
No sense in getting heart failure with over exertion.
The 3/4" drive socket set from HF has came in handy for hubs and AWD
drive axles. The sockets are also good for installing seals.
"intermittents are the worst" Amen to that keen observation.
All machines are relentlessly struggling 24/7
to reach their state of Nirvana,
Busted.
It's what they do.
Except sometimes they play with you first.
Cheers, Bill
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>Can you replace a broken stud in a hub?
I don't remember how they are installed. You can probably drive them out, but perhaps the length of a new one prevents one from being inserted on the back side and drawn into place with a lug nut.
Maintaining my cars is not as much fun as it once was and my body complains when I take on any heavy work- especially if it involves rolling around on concrete under a car on jack stands. I am currently assessing the feasibility of doing the struts, cone bushings and sway bar links on one of our 940t. I have actually walked into two new car showrooms in the last month.
Randy
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal
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Hi Randy,
I feel your pain and have 4 carpal tunnel surgeries to prove it.
And no I don't have four hands.
If you go ahead with that job, first soak all the hardware with a
little Marvel Mystery oil for a week for good luck.
With your car on jack stands, use another jack on the sway bar end
to connect the link easily.
Take two Ibuprofen before the job, then get in a hot tub afterwards.
Get a hot tub instead of some new overpriced S-Box.
There might be an oil slick, get one with a rinse cycle.
Or put your wife in charge of cleaning the sludge and oil rings.
Cheers, Bill
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I subscribe to the signature I use on my posts. I started soaking all the fasteners with PB Blaster yesterday and will approach each one with patience. This 940 came from the Cleveland area. While it had very low mileage when I bought it the road salt used there makes any underside fastener work a challenge.
Randy
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Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal
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