It seems the pin at the base of the shift lever is more than resistant to being pushed out.

After many days of applying penetrating oil and various attempts at twisting and pressing the pin out with less than ideal tools I started to risk heat.

At first I went the safe route of inserting a soldering iron into the set screw hole and letting it set for 6 hours. Though hot enough to burn myself the heat of a soldering iron just does not expand steel much.

Then I used a long reach butane lighter with as much results. Or maybe I needed to let it burn for several minutes. Hotter than a soldering iron it still had no effect.

Yesterday I built a heat shield to cover the top, sides and ends of the base of the shifter lever and clevis. After wetting the foam above liberally, I put a hose on misting and inserted it above the heat shield. Then I applied my propane torch for a good portion of a minute and applied more penetrating oil.

I am suspect that even if I got the base of the shift lever hot enough to get penetrating oil into the gaps, I still would not have the leverage to twist or push the pin out.

I am looking at the connection of the clevis rod to the transmission so I might disconnect it and pull the assembly out (?) and get access to work on the pin with substantial force. But I can not even see all of the connection much less get to it.

Has anyone ever used Muriatic Acid to dissolve rust?
--
1988 244 DL; B230F; LH-2.2; Manual 5-speed (M47)

Hi,

I can definitely understand the dilemma about putting heat up there.

You may have to treat this screw like a stuck spark plug with lots of patience.
What I mean with this, is to torque the screw a little bit tighter and then back a little bit tighter and actually strain the body of the screw to stretch it but not to actual move it for quite some time.
PATIENCE is the biggest factor here.
It can take several five minute sessions over times while trying to get a plug out of an aluminum head.

So far I have never stripped out threads before but I have put in a few Heli-Coils used in manufacturing specifications.
Engineers claim they can provide more strength especially in thin or weaker materials used in a product.
The idea of thread insert’s being used in plastics follows those lines.

The soaking of penetrating oils and of course heat is a technique of expansion and contraction alone with the capillary action that all of the techniques present to loosen the bonding that has happened.

In your case that you are concerned with is keeping the heat constrained to that precise area.

I would suggest using a tin can of about a 303 size. That would be a Pork & Beans size can.
The end that is not open would need to a slot cut part way across and of course a slot down one side enough to encompass the joint.

You would apply a propane torch flame to the set screw end and it surrounding body. You want to get it hot for only a few hundred degrees quickly.
Maybe the pin will grow longer and shift under the set screw.
If any plastic bushings melt so be it, they are done anyways.

In thinking this out a little farther, as you have, you might consider a wet rag laid up on top of your modified tin can.
Wrap the stick going upwards just in case you get over zealous with any heating device.
A heat gun can work but will involve lots of air flow and time and who knows where the excess air may go too.
The rag will soak up any extra heat if you use a heat gun as well.
I like the thinness of a torch better.

Thanks for the Oxford 👀 up.
We are both correct because as you say, they make up a connection.
Clevis terminology is far more popular than shackles.
As shackles relates more to constraints rings and chain. Not a pleasant thought for those in them. 🤨

In my days of machining and within the scope of overhead cranes, the “process of hooking” up to eyelets, nylon straps or lifting fixtures I didn’t consider “shackles” as a useful term either.
But if I spotted a Clevis that had a tonnage rating “forged” into the side of them it was considered different, so there you go? The Purchasing or budgeting Department needed a justification for the expenses.

A Clevis can be replaced by a more common referenced thing called a “fork” as in mechanical linkages.
The shifter would qualify here better for terms of assembling.
In my opinion. 😎 and we know how that flies.


Phil

Hi,

There is a novel technique that I don't recall being discussed on this forum. I've used it and it works, but there may be safety concerns that apply to your particular situation. I can't say.

It requires a stick welder and a helper. The preferred current is DC straight polarity, meaning electrode negative, but AC would probably work if that is all that is available.

Cut off the small end of an Allen key, and put the straight long end into the electrode holder. With the welder OFF, insert the free end of the key into your bolt and apply some pressure.

Signal your helper to turn the welder ON, and signal again a few seconds later to turn it OFF after the bolt turns red. Let it cool to touch, apply oil and tap the bolt head with a suitable punch to help it along. On rare cases multiple cycles may be required.

The amperage selected depends on the size of the key, but I use the high end of what I would use on a comparable welding rod. This also works with stuck bleeder valves. Of course, disconnect the battery and connect the ground directly to the part that houses the bolt.

Peter

Penetrating oil and patience.

You can try to use a butane pencil torch to heat cycle the set screw. Most hardware stores now carry them.

If there's enough of the set screw exposed, you might be able to get a pair of pliers or Vise-Grips on it to turn.

Worse case scenario is to use a screw extractor which usually requires drilling.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com