Are the front and rear pump motors identical?
Ebay says special number.

Is the rear pump the one closest to the fender?

What's the easiest way to swap it?
Even with the headlight assembly out I wonder if the air filter
box is in the way. Maybe can yank it up and out with 12" hemostats
and hope there's enough slack with the rubber tubing to reconnect?

It looks like some plastic in-line filters, do those ever fail?
(That's suggesting there's a perpetual machine, I should know better.)

I have an old pump in my junk that shows no sign of life when hooked up
to 13.8 volts, and I see what looks like a motor winding 3.5 ohms one way
and 3.9 ohms the other way. What's across the motor winding?
Has anyone pulled a pump apart to see if there's something repairable?

Thanks, Bill

Hey Bill,
I had (still have, actually) a different issue with my washer reservoir. In my case, I took the airbox out. I've never removed a headlight, so I don't know which is easier. As I recall, you've installed e-codes, so you know what you're getting into with that. The airbox wasn't too difficult, on the chance you haven't done it. I think I had to do a bit of prying to pop the pegs out of the rubber bungs on the fenderwell side, but I didn't break anything. Might be a knuckle buster, so wear gloves. As an added bonus, getting the box out makes it easier to test / replace the hot air thermostat, if you haven't bypassed it. My car is NA. I know everything is on the opposite side with a Turbo, and there is obviously more going on. So if your car is Turbo, I can understand trying to find another way.

Anyway, with the airbox removed, everything was really easy to see and access. As the pumps pull straight up, I think getting at it from the top would be easier, once you have access.

My issue was actually the rubber seal between the filler tube and the top of the tank. Whenever I would fill my tank (I fill to where I can see fluid in the neck), I'd lose some on the ground. I initially thought I had a bad pump seal (I've dealt with that on at least one other car). So I pulled the airbox thinking I'd find a leaky pump to reservoir seal. That's when I discovered the real issue. I was hoping I could just soften the seal a bit. I didn't have any oil of wintergreen on hand, so I cleaned it, and applied Lexol vinyl and rubber treatment--which didn't do a damned thing. Since I can see part of the reservoir from underhood, I simply don't top it off, and that has made me lazy to solve the issue. As I haven't found a source for that seal, I'm going to give that John Deere tire tire and rubber protection a try. I've heard good things, and want to use it on my exterior rubber anyway. Should that fail, there's always RTV or the like.

Hi Wilson,

My 945 is a turbo and removing the air box lets you get at everything.
The rear window pump is on the fender side.
It's good to have that little transfer hand pump from HF to save a tank full
of washer fluid.
When I took the connector out of the pump, one of the two lock snaps
for the housing was open and one of the pins had fallen out.
The pins were fine but the support for the pins crumbled apart.
Maybe the prior owner cleaned all of his bullet connectors with carb cleaner
or some strong solvent?
Luckily I had a pair of female bullet pigtails left over from fixing the OBD port.
I use non insulated #18-22 butt connectors and shrink wrap and put it together.
I put a little washer fluid and tested and all OK.
Then Murphy showed up. The windshield pump was leaking. Pull it out and the tank grommet was gone. Looked everywhere, called Volvo they didn't have a listing for the grommet? but did have that seal you wanted. (sorry didn't get a price,
Its better that way in case you decide to shoot the messenger)
Then I yanked the tank out. There's a handy screw cap to look in the tank, and there was the grommet in the tank, hiding.
When I wasn't looking Murphy shoved it in there. (Same old story)
12" hemostats to the rescue, put it back together, happy as a clam at high tide.

Now I plan to order a new housing and some spare female bullet connector pigtails from Dave Barton, since it seems every time I go near one, the pins are falling out. He also sells the housings with and without pigtails.
His standard gauge pigtails are just fine for the 18 gauge wire for pump, OBD port, etc.

This post is a heads up to check the pump connector before ordering a new
pump. Now I have a spare pump.

Have a great weekend, Bill

Good deal - glad it's sorted!

I've been using this nice weather to get my yard in order, so the car sits. I thought I looked at one of the online dealers for the rubber bit I needed, but never actually contacted the dealer. Thanks for passing that info on.

Funny about the windshield grommet missing, and glad you found it. Odd something like that seems unavailable.

Anyway, the biggest takeaway from this is when you mentioned siphoning the washer fluid, it reminded me that I need to get all of the summer fluid out of my wife's Volvo and replace with winter fluid before we drive to Cleveland next week. I usually just start replacing the fluid in September, but we don't drive a lot, and her car is the one that gets the garage. I don't have a transfer pump, so I'll just siphon it. Maybe I'll be smart and start the process with my MityVac so I don't have to get a mouthful of soapy water :-). Yeah, I fool around with seasonal fluids to save money. But I figure it's also nice to keep the alcohol of the paint and rubber of the car. I buy these nice little tablets you drop into a gallon of distilled water (from my dehumidifier). Not that it needs to be distilled, but I have an ample supply of the stuff, so why not? Happy Thanksgiving if we don't chat before.

Hi Wilson,

You wont be able to siphon off the whole tank from the fill tube since there's a flexible screen.
There's a screw on cap on the top the tank, but under the air box in the 945T, Dunno if you can see it better with the 945NA.

Don't test your luck with those pump bullet connectors unless you have some new ones ready to wire in.

Happy Turkey Day, Bill