Hi folks,

I an researching the best way to transport my 3 eBikes with my 940 SW (1997).

Apparently, the safest and best way overall is to use a hitch bike rack like this one, which needs a 2" receiver:

https://www.thule.com/en-ca/bike-rack/hitch-bike-racks/thule-epos-3-_-903310 .

When I started to search for a 2" receiver that fis my 940, I only found a 1.25" one:

https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1995_Volvo_940+Series.htm?&Redirect=8

So the issue is to find a 2" hitch for my car :(

Do you have any advice or recommendation?

Thank you!
Alex

Dear Metallo,

Hope you're well. I'd get a two-inch bike-holder and have the end - that supports the bike holder(s) - welded to the 1.25" Volvo piece, that goes into the Volvo hitch's receiver.

Unless the three e-Bikes are hugely heavy, that arrangement - if done by a competent welder - should suffice.

This is likely to take less time - and cost less - than trying to source a bike-holder, with a 1.25" specification.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

An E-Bike is probably pretty heavy ,but if your a strong fella then you might put one on a roof rack. These cars still have a gutter that allows for a strong rack to be attached . Thats how we traveled with 2 bikes up top on a 240 wagon.
Enjoy the ride,
Steve

The only common hitches available for 700/900s are all Class 2 (1-1/4"), including the one from Volvo, with Drawtite being the dominant brand and often found used. I've seen the odd 2" hitch listed for 700/900s, but I have a suspicion these are non-standard Class 2 rated not Class 3 (all standard 2" are either Class 3 or Class 4) as commonly found for 140/240s. I think it's a chassis mounting point strength issue otherwise Volvo would probably have done a Class 3 hitch, like with the 240s. Class weight rating is not an issue for you with bike racks. A 2" to 1-1/4" receiver adapter is commonly available where trailer supplies are sold. It sticks out maybe 8", so best not to leave it on the car.

BTW, you are quite correct to call it a 940 wagon and SW was obvious to me (mine are all wagons). Volvo stopped using a 744/745 designation early on and never formally used a 944/945 designation for marketing, parts and technical manual purposes, but did keep the designations alive in some VIN decoders (so you may see them on the odd vehicle registration certificate). Those designations have still been kept alive by some writers and of course us old 242/244/245 Volvo types know it as a 945 to save us an extra few characters of typing.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Unfortunately, Drawtite does no longer list 940s, so I am out of luck.

Yes, if i well remember ours are 945 being 5 the number of doors :)

Alex

Suggestions:

Any hitch that fits a 700/740/760 or 900/940/960 and possibly even an early S90/V90 should fit, so Google all those hitches for "Canada" or "Brunswick" or "near me".

If you see a used Volvo for sale that has one, offer to buy it separately and remove it yourself. People often don't like selling cars with hitches as it shows they were used for hauling.

Try reaching out with a WTB on your local Facebook groups, wrecking yards that might have old Volvos, Volvo indie mechanic shops, nearby Uhauls, RV trailer places, Craigslist, Volvo dealers, wherever.

I see UHaul listing a custom one for a reasonable price out of the US and free shipping to Canada. That would be my leaning if you don't luck out locally. Accessories can also be found at Princess Auto (best), Canadian Tire and RV dealers.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi,

I am also considering the option of getting a cargo trailer.

I have never towed anything with my car so far, but the idea of carrying three expensive eBikes on long distances makes me uncertain. Sometimes I drive 1000 miles in a day, fully loaded, including the dog :)

With an enclosed cargo trailer like the one linked, I feel more secure.

https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/4x8-Cargo-Trailer-Rental/UV/

Certainly, the three eBikes are safer, and I don't have to worry about weather conditions.

Stopping at a hotel, I would be less concerned about theft.

Do any of you have experience driving with either a hitch bike rack or a small cargo trailer?

Thank you!
Alex

That small UHaul cargo trailer would seemingly work well for your needs. I'd have no hesitation towing it behind my 940 wagon on longer trips, except on snow or ice. I frequently use a utility trailer behind my 940 B230FT wagon, including highway travel with a load of people, dogs and a full load of gear in the back of the wagon. I believe your 1997 940 has a B200FT, so at 155HP it's got only slightly less power than my turbo. Load wise on the engine, around town you'll likely barely know it's there unless it's heavily loaded. For braking, you'll soon learn to leave yourself a bit of extra space depending on the total load weight. You'll need to give a bit wider berth on tight turns. Trickiest is learning to back up a trailer, which takes a fair bit of practice, and a short box like that with a narrower wheelbase than the car is all the trickier to keep straight when backing up. A person flagging you from behind is advisable for beginners. Be prepared to unhitch and move it back by hand if needed.

Now on the highway, things get a bit different. With a box cargo trailer there will be some noticeable air drag at higher speeds, but that small box is a similar profile to the car and you've got a wagon, not a sedan, so it shouldn't be too bad. You'll likely want to kick down a gear or lockout overdrive from time to time when going up hill or coasting downhill. You'll likely also notice side wind buffetting from passing transport trucks on the highway, but you'll soon learn to prepare for a slight wiggle from the rear and not to overcorrect your steering.

Note that with a trailer you need lighting. With our Volvos, you will need a lighting connector and a special lighting converter (also called a converter adapter). These converters take 3-way vehicle lighting (brake, L&R turn) to 2-way trailer lighting (combined L&R brake/turn). These are also called 4-way to 3-way and 5-way to 4-way converters (when counting the extre terminals for park lights and/or backup lights, which don't require converting). These tap into the rear lighting wiring behind the left taillight in our Volvos (tuck the converter behind the taillight panel wrapped in foam so it doesn't rattle). The main UHaul centres may have these for sale, if not then an RV dealer or good auto supplier. There are two types of adapters, unpowered (the trailer lighting gets added to the existing lighting circuits, which can noticeably lower both taillight and trailer bulb brightness) and powered converters (a separate 12V supply to the converter to power the trailer lighting). With modern trailers and all their required marker lights, even when all LEDs, I always recommend a powered converter for frequent or extended use, plus trailer lighting won't affect the flasher interval. Curt is a common brand (https://www.curtmfg.com/part/59187), also Hopkins/Hoppy.

These converters don't get along with our bulb out sensors. You will need to run two wires up the left of the car to the dash, one to attach to the brake light switch ahead of the bulb sensor, and one to a lightly loaded 12V source (fused or unfused). Preferably this should be unswitched battery power so the trailer brake lights will always work along with the car brake lights. I chose to use a switched source by tapping into the infrequently used power seat 12V wire under the front seat, also saving me a few feet of wire and extra work under the dash. You can tap into either a fused or unfused source as a fuse should always be put back at the converter (often included in the kit). It takes a bit of effort to remove the trim and all the panels up the left side of the car, but perfectly doable if you're careful and don't break plastic studs.

If you were to use a bike rack, 300+ lbs of e-bikes hanging way out off the back in addition to a loaded wagon of stuff will change the level ride. You will want to be careful of your headlights starting to blind oncoming cars, also your nose not hugging the road quite as well when hydroplaning. Trailer tongue weights on the other hand will be in the order of 45-75 lbs. Because I trailer a fair bit, first thing I did when I got the car was put in IPD overload rear coil springs and heavier duty IPD sport front and rear sway bars. Had done the same thing before on our 240 wagon so knew it would help.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Today I was able to find the wiring schematic of my 940 and noticed that my car is pre-wired for the towing hitch.

In fact, I found the "D5" 10 pin connector in the back of the trunk, on the driver's side.

https://postimg.cc/p5BQwQPJ

I assume this should take care of all the issues you mentioned in your post.

The only question is how to connect the 10-pin connector to the 4-way you find in the U-Haul.

Since I cannot find a pre-made universal 10-pin to 4-pin connector, I might have to locate a male connector and solder it to the four wires of the 4-way connector.

Thoughts?
Alex

Hi Alex,
Good going finding that 10-pin connector. First time I've seen one. In the wiring diagrams it's called "Pre-routed wiring for towing hook". Everything is ahead of the bulb sensor so no problem with that aspect.

You're still going to need to use one of those 3-way to 2-way converters to go from Euro lighting to a 4-pin connector for UHaul North American trailer lighting. The good news is you don't need to run any wiring up to the dash. Everything you need is at that connector. Easier than solder is to use crimp taps, which often come with the converter.

They give you two 12 Volt sources to tap into:
o Pin 9 (white/black) is battery 12V from fuse #3 (30 amp fuse, shared with the power seats).
o Pin 10 (blue/green) is ignition switched 12V from fuse #9 (15 amp fuse, shared with the turn signals, power windows and heated seats)
-> You'll want to tap into Pin 9 for a powered converter.

As you can see in the wiring diagram, the other taps you'll need are:
o Pin 1 (green) left turn
o Pin 3 (black) ground
o Pin 4 (blue) right turn
o Pin 5 (grey) park
o Pin 6 (yellow/brown) brakes
(those are the wire colours in the '95 manual and will hopefully match your '97, it's a bit hard to tell from looking at your picture, but the pins #s will almost certainly match)

The park lights can actually be from either pin 5 or pin 7, but I suggest pin 5 as it's on a more lightly loaded fuse.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

You will remember our conversation regarding the traile hitch and its connections.

Today I tried to connect the powered converter below:

https://www.curtmfg.com/part/59496

Then I started the testing with a 12 V bulb while doing the connections.

Everything seems to work:

Left and right turns
Taillights

But I cannot get the stop lights to work, I push my brake on, but the 12V bulb does not light up.

The converter red wire is connected to the PIN #6.(Yellow/brown)

It must be something very stupid I am doing, but no idea what :(

Your help is appreciated.

Thank you!
Alex

P.S.: It was something stupid indeed: me. I was testing using the tailgate connector, while changing the connector to either the left or right turn, the brake light works. This means that the purpose of the converter is to send an individual brake light signal (yellow/brow pin 6)to both turn lights using the red wire.

Sorry to have bothered you Dave.

Hmm, that's weird, it ought to work.

o The Curtis adapter red wire is indeed for brake lights and connects through to pin 6, the yellow-brown wire, on your Volvo "pre-wired towing hook" connector. You sourced a European standard Type 12N round 7-pin trailer connector with ISO 1274 pinouts as I recall, so we're talking the correct pin 6 for brakes on your Volvo. Note that on a North American 7-pin trailer connector, pin 6 is still for brakes (right brake/turn light), but is a green wire, not a red wire (red is on pin 4 for battery 12V to the trailer).

o As you'll recall, we determined from the Volvo wiring diagram that the yellow-brown wire is ahead of the bulb out sensor so won't cause warning light problems.

o I presume you weren't accidentally using the 4-way hazard lights for testing instead of depressing the brake pedal.

o I also presume you're not hooking up your test light to pin 2 (brown wire) on the flat trailer connector expecting brake lights. That's for the park lights and trailer marker lights. Brakes should light on both pin 3 (yellow wire, left brake light) and pin 4 (green wire, right brake light).

o I presume for your test light you've been using the white wire pin 1 on the flat trailer connector as ground, not another chassis ground. If not then double check you've attached the black wire to a good ground, either pin 3 in the Volvo connector or better still a closer chassis ground, such as the threaded stud the taillights use AND that the converter fuse is installed.

o If you've got a voltmeter, verify that pin 6 on the Volvo vehicle connector is providing 12V when the pedal is depressed.

o If you don't have a meter, run a temporary jumper wire from the red wire over to a taillight brake bulb to see if it now works.

o If all that checks out then there's always a chance you've got a faulty converter. Jumping 12 volts onto the red wire with the black wire connected to chassis ground and measuring voltage on both flat connector pin 2 or 3 would confirm that.

Good luck. You're almost there! Somewhere in the above should be your answer.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Thank yo for your feedback.

I think you missed my P.S> at the bottom of my previous message:

P.S.: It was something stupid indeed: me. I was testing using the tailgate connector, while changing the connector to either the left or right turn, the brake light works. This means that the purpose of the converter is to send an individual brake light signal (yellow/brow pin 6)to both turn lights using the red wire.

The test bulb lights up when I press the brake pedal.

I should be good to go now.

Thank you so much, as always, you and this community have been of tremendous help.

Alex

Hi Alex

Good to know and congratulations. I replied based on the emailed notification that the brickboard sends, which didn't contain your later edit about figuring it out. I really should know better as I almost always keep editing my posts and expect others to read them as finally posted, not as the first draft being emailed to them as the OP. That's an ongoing problem with the brickboard that wasn't there until a few years ago where just the final edit used to be emailed to the OP when the edit period expired. I mentioned that to Jarrod on a couple of occcasions, but he said it made it easier to code and use less server resources needing an event timer. No major problem for me that you'd already figured it out. It's always educational trying to help figure things out for people, especially when I have a good appreciation for your issue and have the online resources plus my own manuals and notes at my fingertips. Onlytime I dislike it is when it ends up that I'm totally off base.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

The colors match, yes, I verified all of them between my 1997 green book and the connector in the car.

I would think the powered one you recommended in a previous email would still be the right choice to make, right?

https://www.curtmfg.com/part/59187

The only thing left here is how to connect the wires, as I do not like to use the crimp taps. I would like something 'neater,' like a male connector where I can solder the wires I need and plug it into the 10-pin Volvo connector.

I have no idea where to find a matching male connector. Probably something like Digi-Key or Mouser, but I do not know what they are called to search for them. Do you know?

I posted some better images:

https://postimg.cc/Z02BYZP3
https://postimg.cc/jWM2prdD
https://postimg.cc/7bFh89Dn

I wonder what the gray connector is for and as it is tied-up to the D5 connector.

Thank you!
Alex

PS: I guess you are located in Canada? Which province, if I may ask?

That type of Curt adapter is what you're looking for. That particular kit has black extra wire to go up to the battery and a longer green wire to go over to the right turn signal, neither of which you will need. You can get similar converters from Hopkins and others. That particular Curt kit isn't too badly priced, but check out Amazon and even better check out your local UHaul centre and local RV dealers who commonly have such converter kits available.

Princess Auto (kind of like Harbor Freight to you US types reading here) seems to only be carrying non-powered converters at the moment. I've been thinking that if the UHaul trailer is all LED lighting and being that all the wires in that connector come direct from the front of the car ahead of the bulb sensor, that you may be able to get away with a non-powered converter and with minimal affect on bulb brightness and the flasher interval. It would save you a wad of money, for example Princess Auto has one in stock near you for $15. At that price it may be worth the experiment. If you then drive to your local UHaul centre you could ask to do a test connection on that or a similar trailer to see the effect on brightness and expecially the flasher. If you convert you're 940 park/brake lights to LEDs (as I've recently done using Auxito white 1156 & red 1157 bulbs from China, post back if you want the particular ones I chose and also recommended by Bill here) a non-powered converter should work fine. Trickiest bit is the turn signals. The flasher needs a load on it and you need to find special LEDs or else switch to a solid state flasher. That's an experiment I'll attempt some other day after I've had a chance to investigate the options.

As for using crimp taps, electrically they are perfectly adequate for the kind of currents we're talking here. Pro's use them. Yes, it won't look like a factory hookup. If you're a purist for electrical connections then just cut the needed wires leaving 1"-2" of tail and solder your wires in a "Y" using heat shrink. Double check the length of the 4-pole wire. For the kind of use you have, I wouldn't bother with an external trailer connector. I run mine it into the wagon hatch and leave it loose. I double wrap the final 4 feet in black electrical tape (triple wrap it against bending at the connector and where it will go out under the tailgate close to the latch being careful to avoid the latch itself). Plastic wire harness cover is a bit thick for the job going out under the tailgate.

Now finding a 10-pole mating connector to make a plugin harness is going to be a challenge, also not going to be overly cheap. I'm not sure if it's perhaps Molex. You can try finding it on Mouser. Have a look at Dave Barton's site https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html. There's 3 pages of assorted stuff there. He's spent forever trying to source assorted connectors for our RWD Volvos. If you read his notes you'll get clues of the connector brands Volvo used back in those days.

Now here's something amazing I just turned up. Volvo did have that trailer harness available. I can't find the 700/900 part no, but I think this 2001-on FWD harness may be compatible (I'd say a 75% chance) and it appears to still be available in the Volvo parts chain https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-tow-hitch-wiring-harness-genuine-volvo-30681980#description. Note that it seems to include the converter. [Edit: nope, it's a rubber gasket for going through the body, so you'll still need to splice in a converter.] It has a standard North American 7-pole trailer connector. You can buy 7-pole to 4-pole adapters at places like Princess Auto, again I see local stock near you. [Edit: I just found the original 1994-on 900/V90 Volvo trailer harness on Skandix, Volvo p/n 9134962 https://www.skandix.de/a/1016645/, no converter and NLA in the Volvo Euro parts chain. I note that the connector is separate, maybe so you can splice in a converter. I've double checked the wiring diagram and you definitely need a converter for either 4-pole or 7-pole trailer wiring. I still think there's a chance that FWD one for the NA market might work if the connector is the same 10-pin and you were willing to hack it off and splice in a converter, maybe needing to move a couple of pins around.]

As for what that other grey plug is, it's obviously factory. Without checking the manuals, I'm fairly sure it was for the optional remote CD changer used with the CR-915 stereo. In sedans it lived under the parcel shelf, in wagons it lived under the hatch. Check your manual. It's component 6/15 in the '95 manual. The North American cars didn't get that harness either, so likely factory installed in Europe the same time that trailer harness was installed. I'm not sure why Euro 940s may have that trailer harness as standard, while not in the North American cars from Halifax. Maybe has something to do with North Americans using mostly pickups for towing.

(I see your profile here says you're in NB. I'm on the far left coast in BC.)
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

I guess the 4-way connector you saw at PA is this one: https://www.princessauto.com/en/4-way-flat-trailer-end-connector-with-led-test-lights/product/PA0008635732

Dave Barton does not have that connector, I asked him already.

Yes, the Volvo p/n 9134962 https://www.skandix.de/a/1016645 would be the one that fits my car.

To be more precise, what I would need, it is not the kit but the connector and its pins:

Insulator: 968409
Pin(s): 968374

Easy to find in EU, hard to find in NA, although, the same connector is used on other Volvo models, like 740, 940, 960, 850 etc. in different areas.

Actually, no, not hard to find here, I just checked on the Volvo web store and found both:

https://parts.volvocars.ca/p/42881601/968409.html
https://parts.volvocars.ca/p/42888763/968374.html (pricey)

Now, you wrote that I'd definitely need a converter, however the Volvo original kit does not have a converter, it is just a cable. This leads me to think that the pre-wiring they did, is already taking care of all the loads issues.

I guess you are trying to tell me that if I go with the original connector, being unable to physically join two wires in one (where is needed), I will need the converter to do that electronically.
If this is correct, then yes, I need the converter, because I can use all the require input pins, and the converter will convert the signal to 4-way.

Am I right with the above consideration?

I know, I could be ready in 10 minutes by cutting the wires and solder, but I am a picky one :)

Thank you!
Alex

Hi Alex.

I'm a bit surprised like you are that the Volvo harness with a 7-pin round connector does need a converter. Somewhere in the lighting circuit you need either relays or transistors/diodes to combine the separate turn and brake lights for North American trailer lighting. No sign of that in that 940 accessory cable. Also no sign of that in the green manual for the "Pre-routed wiring for towing hook" diagram pages.

It would appear that the 940 accessory trailer cable is a Euro standard Type 12N round 7-pin trailer connector with ISO 1274 pinouts, having separate brake and turn signals, whereas in North America the similar SAE J2863 round 7-pin trailer connector is different and has combined brake/turn, just like the standard flat 4-pin connector. So there's why you need the converter and also why that harness is not commonly available in North America.

That Princess Auto part you quote is the trailer end 4-pin flat plug with LED indicator lights. The cheap non-powered converter I spotted online the other day was this one, except all of a sudden the price is double, so likely it was on sale or else in their Surplus section.


If you're going to be a purist about the wiring, go for a proper powered converter like the one I first linked to. Good going on finding the 10-pole connector housing and pins. Personally, I wouldn't spend any more time on it. You're likely going to be the only one who sees and cares about your handiwork hidden under the left storage hatch. If anything, solder is a better connection than pins, so hint, hint, snip, snip.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

I understand, yes.

I think I will go for this one https://www.curtmfg.com/part/59187 + the connector and pins I should be able to get from Volvo.

I will check first the friends at Volvo to see if they can get the connector + pins.

Now I have to do the same research for my other Volvo XC70 2006, that is pure Canadian, but I still have to check if it is pre-wired or what else.

I will keep you posted.

Thank you!
Alex

Hi Dave,

This is really great information for me.

I will read it carefully and will come back to you if I have any questions.

In EU our 945s have a 7-Way connector, I do not think my car is pre-wired with that, but I need to double check before I go and buy the standard 4 way connector used in NA for small trailers.

I will go for the cargo trailer rather then a bike rack, also because the eBikes we have are very expensive, and it gives me a some extra piece of mind, although you can easily unhook a trailer and off you go!

Yes, an insurance is possible with U-Haul, it is very expensive, but better safe than sorry, especially nowdays.

The only drawback, I read in the U-Haul website max speed 55 MPH.
Realistically, how faster can you drive? I mean, driving at 55 MPH for 1000 miles would be a nightmare, especially as I typically drive at 75 MPH (allowed in many provinces in Canada).

Thank you,
Alex

For trailer security, a good padlock will be required for the rear doors, the sturdier the better to slow people down. To prevent the trailer from being stolen, forget padlocks on the tongue. Tongue ball locks are good, but people can still chain the tongue and tow them off to a corner to bust open the doors. Wheel locks are best. A couple of different types out there. The one I have is this one that I got on sale from PA which they occasionally have on sale for under $40. https://www.princessauto.com/en/heavy-duty-trailer-wheel-lock/product/PA0008196735. It's mildly compact for storage. Make it a habit to use them everytime you park and click them up as tight and snug as you can as they can be defeated if they want to fully deflate the tire to try getting them off the rim, but then they'll need to re-inflate to drive off. Park with the trailer and both locks in reasonably plain sight of people or a security camera so if someone tries to use a cutter the sparks will attract attention.

That Volvo OEM trailer wiring harness (shown in some green manuals) was special dealer or factory order to my knowledge and not cheap. It connected up under the dash and went down the left side to the rear.

As for highway speeds, their 55mph is just a serious suggestion and may even be on a sticker for others to see. That's 90 km/hr, which covers most of our highways here. On the odd freeway, you might feel comfortable taking it up to maybe 100-110, and much above that you'll want to be a lot more careful. You have to be careful about trusting the integrity of their used tires and wheel bearings at higher speeds. A blown out trailer tire can be a major pain. Be sure you're packing an appropriate tire spanner, cheater pipe, scissors jack, wheel chocks and road marker. Gas mileage suffers exponentially at higher speeds with heavier loads and increased wind drag from a trailer, so best to take that kick back and relax attitude.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Alex,

What's a 940 SW?
Do you mean a 945 or 940 Wagon?

I can't answer your question about the 2" receiver hitch, but can suggest
that you look here: www.curtmfg.com

https://www.curtmfg.com/all-products/1993/volvo/940/8/Class+2+Trailer+Hitches
https://www.curtmfg.com/cargo-management/bike-racks

I have their #12209 (1-1/4" receiver) here, but have not installed yet.
They have a full line of trailer stuff, and you could contact them for more info.

Good luck with those three E-bikes, make sure you all wear helmets!

Bill

Hi Bill,

Yes, I mean a 945, usually they are called 940 SW in EU, even if I live in Canada, I did not lose the old habit to call them 940 SW :)

So 'Curt' appears to be the only manufacturer left for my model? I do not know the company, I just hope they produce quality stuff.

The model you linked is the same I saw, just a different site (with a lower price).

The problem I see is that all the racks that can hold 3 eBikes, seem to require a 2" receiver.

eBikes are heavier and I am not surprised if the rack manufacturers recommend 2"

Alex

Hi Alex,

Curtmfg is the manufacturer in Wisconsin, and you found one of their dealers
with better prices than the factory lists now. In June 2021 the factory price
was $380.

Look at the second link with all of the accessories and their bike racks
They also have a 1-1/4 to 2" adapter.

How much do those e-bikes weigh? There would be a lot of twisting moment on the receiver. You might attach some straps from the top of the tailgate on either side to the bikes to prevent rocking.

See if Curt will talk to you.

Bill