One end of the blue ground cable off the alternator B- ground post normally attaches to the nearby top bolt of the strut brace for the intake manifold, but any connection to the block or head will do. Best to clean up the contact surfaces first. It's not required, but you can use something like a little De-Oxit paste if you've got it.
If I'm reading you correctly, that is indeed really weird why in KP-II having the alternator ground cable disconnected causes the fan to run and when reconnected to ground the fan is now off. Defrost mode also enables air conditioning and setting the fan on zero in defrost mode still has the fan on low, which will run with the igntion switch in KP-I or KP-II. The alternator ground is not involved in the fan circuit (the fan is attached to ground at the right A-pillar ground rail and the battery connected to the unibody frame member with one of the two blue cables). If it's as bizarre as you say, then something basic seems wrong. It's almost as if the alternator with its ground connected is somehow able to suck all the battery amps and leave not enough amps for the fan to run with the key on. How old and how well charged is the battery? What are the static volts across the battery terminals? It's almost like the alternator would have to be internally shorted to suck that much power if the battery is anywhere near normal. If so, I would expect arcs and sparks if you were to touch the ground cable to anything and cause this to happen.
At some point once you get it running half-normally, I would recommend checking the alternator output and the integrity of the ground and battery cabling by doing a voltage drop test to determine the amount of resistance in the alternator and battery cabling and connections. Switch off all unneccessary electrical loads (esp. DRL headlights, fan, window/mirror defrosters and heated seats). Measure well above idle, like up around 2,000 rpm (anything over 1,700). First measure the voltage directly on the back of the alternator between the B+ terminal (the heavy gauge red wire) and the B- ground post. You should be seeing a proper charging voltage, normally around 14-14.35V for a well charged battery with a healthy alternator regulator (no less than 13.75V for an older/partly charged battery). Now measure across the battery posts. Anything much more than about a 1/4 volt difference and your battery cabling and engine grounds should be attended to, cleaning up the connections.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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