I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL automatic transmission. I have spark, camshaft is turning and when I crank it a few times the plugs are moist. Fuel pump relay is clicking and even bypassed the fuel pump relayand pumps stay on. No start. The fuel injection fuse under the hood is good as all fuses in the fuse box. The first time I try to start it is very close to starting. Battery is at 13 volts. What am I missing? Thanks

To be absolutely sure of the basics:

Is there spark across each plug gap?
Is there fuel coming out of each injector?
Is the spray pattern good?
Is the injector leaking?

A compression check would assure that conditions in the cylinders are good for ignition of the mixture.

Possible faulty AMM. Unplug the AMM and try restarting in 'limp home' mode. Engine will run using a pre-programmed fuel trim. Should idle not too bad, but be weak on acceleration almost to the point of being governed. The most common cause of AMM death is continual hot air intake through the corrugated aluminum preheat hose off the exhaust shroud allowed by a faulty air box thermostat. Consider permanently disconnecting the preheat hose off the exhaust shroud to prevent the AMM from cooking when (not if) the airbox thermostat fails. If you're subject to inspection, remove the air box thermostat and screw the air diverter flap shut from inside the airbox, out of sight of the inspectors. Airbox thermostat checking and replacement was part of scheduled dealer service. They're not that cheap and the preheat function serves little practical purpose except in extreme cold conditions, so not worth the cost and effort. Good AMMs are getting harder to find, so why waste them unnecessarily.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hmm. That flexible hose has been gone for awhile. No emissions inspection. I'll try tomorrow. Thanks

Quick follow up on the AMM. When you go to remove the AMM plug, check to see that it is seated correctly and you have good contact. Be careful with it too! Check the condition of the AMM plug prongs. If the plug isn’t seated properly or a prong or two is broken/damaged the engine might not start or will default to limp home mode.

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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Hi,

I think he should also check for power on the orange wire in the AMM.
Back probe the AMM with a small test light as shown on Arts web site.
Link to the same information for checking and jump the pumps to run.

http://cleanflametrap.com/emfuse.html

It is the same wire that gives POWER to the fuel injection after the system relay turns on.
That same relay powers on the fuel pumps that he jumped around. It is a two function relay.
Art has a lot of troubleshooting information available in these areas.

Phil

Thank You.

1988 (I gu8ess?) is the first year roof a reliable wiring harness.

I'm not fully checked out on the Bosch LH-2.2 LH-Jetronic with the Chrysler-MPG ignition systems. US market or no?

All appears to work yet no spark, so two and from the Chrysler-MPG ignition system module.

On the distributor body is the powered impulse sensor pickup sensor connector and cable. A two wire connector that can age from under-hood conditions. May get melty or disconnected somehow. Tips abound to test and service or at least make it a secure connection.

Donut know how that cable routs from that connector and cable from the distributor to the Chrysler-MPG ignition systems module. As you fuel pumps run and you have fuel spray I'll guess the powered impulse sensor and cable connection is okay.

'Downstream' electrically is the Chrysler-MPG ignition system module hanging on the washer fluid basket frame. I'm unsure, yet all can work upstream, you get fuel spray yet no spark as the Chrysler-MPG ignition module is not powered or, further 'lectrically downstream, the impulse output from the Chrysler-MPG ignition module does not get the the ignition control amplifier thing secured to the inner fender sort of jidden by the battery. Maybe corrosion here at the connection at the Chrysler-MPG ignition module on top or at that signal amplifer sort of hidden by the battery. Also, coils can fail and a continuity test at the coil between teh lo-pot connectors and the high pot coild wire connector can be a test to indicate the could is okay. Continuity tests are on unpowered systems.

As 1999, connectors and the seals in the cable harness connector can lose seal allowing the thing film corrosion.

I'm not well-practiced with LH-2.2 or the Chrysler-MPG ignition module.

http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/Resources/Volvo%20No-Start.pdf

Asks for a donation in the PDF and here:
http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/NoStart.html

Other no start guide for an LH-Jetronic 2.2 (and odler) system. Your 1988 as this injection system. 740/940 have the Bosch EZK 115 and 117 and ? powered impuls send inside the distributor.

Bosch EZK-116 withy the crank angle postion sendo starts in 1989. A little later for Turbo. No Chrysler-MPG ignition module on 740/940 and most markets outside CONUS.

Git your digital multimeter to work!

Questions?

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