Hi,

I think they are located under the center vents on a horizontal bar above the center console.
You cannot reach them from under the console unless you can lean or pull it out quite a bit.
They are clipped very tightly in a row.

They have been very reliable for me so I hope you are not on a wild goose chase.
The switch can be problematic as it most used by our human hands or a dogs paw. 🙃

Open and closing the door can take a toll on that wiring harness eventually.
You might want an ohmmeter test them while wiggling. A test light can tell you more about the condition of ALL of that loom. There are lots more than one wire involved from that main switch.
The relay’s ends do not get moved much, if any, unless you have been back on under them for something else?


You should be able to reach them from the instrument cluster side or even with the glove box or removed.
The center vents facia also might give you access them from under the duct manifold.
Things are “tucked” in that area.

It’s been a long time since I have been in the junkyards and when I went there most of the time someone had already remove some of that stuff across the dash.

I recently found out the headlight relay and its socket has two homes on the 240s.
I had a socket overheat because of a terminal going bad inside.
I spliced around it with bullet or spade connectors.

The older cars have that THING located down by your left foot with the wiper relay.
It’s one of those strange quirks Volvo did related to the wagons tailgate ruling over the sedans.
This was on my 1986 245. I think I have seen there until 1988.
The 1989s got the change over with the advent of CPS or EZK ignition controls.


Good luck with the hunting.

Phil

[Edit: I see you found the problem while I was typing]
Does the front passenger door window switch work? If so then it's not the relay. It's the only switch separately powered other than through the driver door switch pod. If the RF switch also doesn't work and given that the fuse is okay (spin it a little) then the relay is suspect (know the wire colors when searching under the dash to verify the correct relay). If the RF switch works and no others do then it's almost guaranteed a broken (red) wire at the driver door hinge, the most common power window failure problem. The second most common is pitted dirty contacts in the bottom of the window switches that act up individually. If you mend a broken hinge wire (crimp sleeves are appropriate here rather than solder due to heat affecting copper strand strength), try to feed the splice into the pillar a bit so that fresh wire is doing the bending. Adding a small length of wire further back may be needed to gain the needed length. The reason I don't recommend splicing in a section of wire at the break is because auto store run wire is often of poorer quality than the Volvo harness so may fatigue and break again sooner.

--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Hi Dave,

Check Fuse 12 (controls the window relay)
According to the drawing, the relay is under the center of the dash
at the end of a harness. Looks like near the radio.
Maybe it's just a corroded fuse 12 not making a contact?
If so, shine up your fuses and sockets and use Penetrox-A (Zinc paste)

What's your email? I'll send you the 93 240 wiring book.

Bill