I have a 1993 245 I've been driving the past 2 years. There have been no issues with the windows but Sunday I left to do photos at a Porsche club autocross and the windows worked as usual. When I left the venue they did not. What I've checked so far--power into and out of the fuse (#10) -- but no power at the window switch. I've also manipulated the wire harness from the body to the door to see if a broken wire could make contact - no difference with a test light attached. I ran a jump wire to the switch and the windows work. My next step (I assume) would be to check at the relay -- but that's my question -- where is that bugger located? Thanks in advance for any input. -- Dave

Hi,

I think they are located under the center vents on a horizontal bar above the center console.
You cannot reach them from under the console unless you can lean or pull it out quite a bit.
They are clipped very tightly in a row.

They have been very reliable for me so I hope you are not on a wild goose chase.
The switch can be problematic as it most used by our human hands or a dogs paw. 🙃

Open and closing the door can take a toll on that wiring harness eventually.
You might want an ohmmeter test them while wiggling. A test light can tell you more about the condition of ALL of that loom. There are lots more than one wire involved from that main switch.
The relay’s ends do not get moved much, if any, unless you have been back on under them for something else?


You should be able to reach them from the instrument cluster side or even with the glove box or removed.
The center vents facia also might give you access them from under the duct manifold.
Things are “tucked” in that area.

It’s been a long time since I have been in the junkyards and when I went there most of the time someone had already remove some of that stuff across the dash.

I recently found out the headlight relay and its socket has two homes on the 240s.
I had a socket overheat because of a terminal going bad inside.
I spliced around it with bullet or spade connectors.

The older cars have that THING located down by your left foot with the wiper relay.
It’s one of those strange quirks Volvo did related to the wagons tailgate ruling over the sedans.
This was on my 1986 245. I think I have seen there until 1988.
The 1989s got the change over with the advent of CPS or EZK ignition controls.


Good luck with the hunting.

Phil

Thanks for your suggestions Phil. B.B. nailed it with the first response. I'm just glad it didn't require ripping everything apart. Oh for the days of the simple wiring of a 122. -- Dave

Hi,

Thanks for the feed back as that doesn’t always happen on here lately.

Yes that fuse panel has caused some interesting flickering of our circuits.
I had my windshield wiper stop after a heavy deluge while passing through San Francisco one afternoon.
Luckily, I had just finished using them.
I went to wipe again from sprinkles and spray … nothing.

Thinking on how easily they quit and how I might need them I pulled over a rolled them all the fuses slightly in their places and ha-aa-la!
Had them fixed before my wife got back from having the dog to go whizz.
The whole ordeal was just a little slower than finding a loosened up rubber spark plug boot.
That was on another long trip but only a hundred miles from home.
I had hobbled together another set of wires and didn’t get them on good.
I bought another set very shortly afterwards.

Oh, the things we can learn for ourselves within a true definition of “simplicity’s sake.”

On last Tuesday I followed a fellow in a nice stock looking 👀 122.
He waved and spoke to my dogs and wife while we were going North towards the Golden Gate Bridge.
I watched him negotiate up through the heavy traffic, changing lanes with as much impunity as a motorcyclist.
He was across that bridge and out of sight before I got across it!

Surely he lives around there to do that so nicely.

Phil

[Edit: I see you found the problem while I was typing]
Does the front passenger door window switch work? If so then it's not the relay. It's the only switch separately powered other than through the driver door switch pod. If the RF switch also doesn't work and given that the fuse is okay (spin it a little) then the relay is suspect (know the wire colors when searching under the dash to verify the correct relay). If the RF switch works and no others do then it's almost guaranteed a broken (red) wire at the driver door hinge, the most common power window failure problem. The second most common is pitted dirty contacts in the bottom of the window switches that act up individually. If you mend a broken hinge wire (crimp sleeves are appropriate here rather than solder due to heat affecting copper strand strength), try to feed the splice into the pillar a bit so that fresh wire is doing the bending. Adding a small length of wire further back may be needed to gain the needed length. The reason I don't recommend splicing in a section of wire at the break is because auto store run wire is often of poorer quality than the Volvo harness so may fatigue and break again sooner.

--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

Thanks for the suggestions Dave. Wire -- I have a great collection of wire -- all colors and sizes snagged from 140 and early 240 models. -- Dave

Hi Dave,

Check Fuse 12 (controls the window relay)
According to the drawing, the relay is under the center of the dash
at the end of a harness. Looks like near the radio.
Maybe it's just a corroded fuse 12 not making a contact?
If so, shine up your fuses and sockets and use Penetrox-A (Zinc paste)

What's your email? I'll send you the 93 240 wiring book.

Bill

Thank you, thank you, thank you Bill. A quick cleaning of the fuse box terminals and the windows are working now. I've seen small relays mounted high and forward under the dash on 1985 and earlier models but I've never had a post '85 dash apart. I had been feeling real good about my hot rod wagon with an all aluminum Oldsmobile V8 and Camaro 5-speed as I recently took a 150 mile trip where I knew exactly the miles driven (odometer still not working after 2 attempts at replacing the gear) and even though speeds were in the 70-75mph range and some time in bumper to bumper traffic it got a solid 22mpg. Then the windows didn't work. I'm happy again. -- Dave

Hi Dave,

Do the Anti-corrosion zinc paste (ACZP) on your fuse and other connectors.
I think there's electrolysis going on between dis-similar metals and the resultant
oxidation or corrosion layer is an insulator. Penetrox-A
Way cheaper than converting to ATC fuses.

Call these guys about your odometer:

(757) 593-3478 - Jeff Caplan
(757) 771-6694 - Darren Shackelford

sales@odometergears.com

Super guys, No BS, and they know a lot!

I'd love to see some pictures of that V8 240 Is it a dragster or a rally car?

Cheers, Bill

Thanks for the tip about the paste. Where do I find this item? I'll contact the speedo guys-maybe their source of gears is better. I realize it may just be a speck of plastic jamming things. My good friend Gert--a Dane--Volvo trained back home in the 1960's is the best mechanic I know--took him 6 tries to get a 240 odometer to work. My car is not a dragster or rally car. It's just a nice handling, good braking 245 with twice the original 4 cyl. torque and 200 lbs. less weight. The car originally had an auto tranny--so it has the 3.73 rear axle. If I get real ambitious I'll look for a 3.31 stick shift rear. My email is --- fastforwardphotoATyahooDOTcom -- I'll send you photos if you'd like. - Dave

Hi Dave,

I just checked and the best price at Ebay went down $3
from what I paid last summer. Knock me down with a feather!

BURNDY PENETROX A ELECTRICAL JOINT COMPOUND 8 FL oz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/385735185784 $16.04


Read Ron Kwas's writeup about ACZP here:

http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm

Bill