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Fuel Pump relay is getting hot. 200 1983

Hello. I have a 1983 245 Turbo. I found that the fuel pump relay was getting hot. The plug has started to deform. Despite this, the car runs great and does not show signs of a faulty fuel pump. What should I look at to fix this issue? Thanks. I’m also slightly puzzled, as my 242 had a noisy main pump and a intank pump that was not doing anything as the hose was disconnected from the sending unit and it did not have this symptom at the fuel pump relay plug.








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Open the relay, inspect solder welds for cracks, treat all grounds, use ammeter for current draw check 200 1983

Use a Jeweler's loupe, reader cheater glasses, or magnifying lens to inspect the solder welds for cracks and reflow the solder welds. Add some new solder.

Spares are cheap. Have a known good fuel pump relay in the boot and in the garage. Savage yard that have RWD Volvo may have the relay you want, or several, yet the Volvo 240 era is at a sunset.

Your 1985 is K-Jetronic injection and ignition, so get more green

May want to verify the current draw on the high current side of the circuit using an ammeter feature of your electric multimeter.

To this sites version of the Volvo FAQ:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm

Right up your Volvo 24o Turbo in 1985 as Turbobricks helps:
https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/burning-through-fuel-pump-relays.342274/

Dave Barton's Volvo relay page:
https://www.prancingmoose.com/volvorelays.html

Verify a balanced potential to ground. Or restated, you may want to treat ground points for the fuel injection harness. Loosen, some lithium grease spray, tighten. Actually, all ground points. There exist Volvo service manuals that indicate where the ground connection are throughout the 240 unibody. Include the alternator to engine block ground and also the b attery negative to body and engine block.

See here on this page:
https://ozvolvo.org/archive/

Find and download the PDF file from the page for ground points:
Taliessin Penfound - TP30678-1 1984 240 Wiring Diagrams.pdf

You may find some other pubs you want here.

Mitchell Service Volvo electric system single line diagrams (SLD):

https://v8volvo.se/mekartips/Volvo/index.html

Also, you have a 1985 so smack dab in the dumb Volvo deteriorating insulation on the wire harness. Though your 1985 240 T would not be on the road without a new engine bay and maybe other wire harness replacement from Dave Barton's site or the manufacturer in Belgium (?) or Netherlands (?) unsure.

You do not mention fuses blowing. Have you checked for a hot ignition switch after a long drive or hot fuses in the fuse panel? Corrosion can form at any electrical contact. Like the fuse box fuse holder contacts and also the quick disconnects at the back of the fuse box.

Get a spray can of Deoxit-D and treat electrical contacts. If your Volvo 240 resides in maritime, high humid, polluted, or heavy tonnes of salt with a snow flake area, the electrical system suffers. You may see a white film on soime contacts.

If you inspect and service the Volvo 240 fuse panel back and front, the wire harness quick disconnects a frail things. So apply some Deoxit. I had to replace quite a few of the factory installed quick disconnects on the fuse panel back side.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert & Gene Siskel






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Fuel Pump relay is getting hot. 200 1983


In addition to the excellent advice already offered you might consider adding a secondary relay to alleviate this tendency going forward.

Your '83, being a turbo, will use the K-Jetronic mod.

See:

https://www.240turbo.com/fuelpumprelay.html#secondary-kjet


--
'79 242, '84 DL 2 door, '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon, '15 XC70 T6 AWD








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Fuel Pump relay is getting hot. 200 1983

If your connector got hot enough to deform the plastic then the female contacts are likely weak and oxidized from heat, so as Bill suggests it may be best to splice in a new connector, either a good used one or from the likes of Dave Barton. So, why would it get that hot to start with as you likely rarely remove the relay? Well, two things, the fuel pump may be getting worn and drawing more current than the relay can handle and the relay contacts may be worn and not able to handle even a normal current. I'd want to also replace the relay and make the old one a spare to keep in the trunk. Fuel pump relays were always a weakness in the old Volvo injected engines.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now








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Fuel Pump relay is getting hot. 200 1983

Pull the fuel relay and check for loose socket pins with a 1/4" male spade connector. Tighten or replace and use Penetrox-A directly into the female socket pins.

See here for parts and info:
https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#6polerelayplug

Good luck, Bill







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