I am looking for an early 1990's wagon and have found a 1990 740 GLE with 88k miles and a 1993 940 with 99k miles. They have basically all the same options (the 740 doesn't have power driver's seat or tinted windows). The 740 is about $2000 less than the 940. Both seem like great cars. Any opinions on which way I should go, assuming the condition of the cars is similar? Thanks.

Shawn

Shawn, where is the 16-valve 740 located?

No, no, no... *don't* tell me! Save me from myself. Save *it* for yourself. :-)

You are getting good advice on this board, in this thread. My $0.02: As someone who drives a 1987 745 with 110k miles on it, in Minnesota, where RUST is the enemy, your cars with < 100k sound just broken in. (Are you in the rust belt?) And as someone who also drives a 1994 Geo Prizm/Toyota Corolla 16-valve, your option sounds like fun! Just keep your foot out of it.

For what it's worth, I realize many people love the turbos on the Volvos, but I love the elbow room under the hood of the normally aspirated 4. The 16-valve engine gives you power when you want it, with, I would think, no real penalty in fuel economy, and leaves you the elbow room. Panglos in a Brick.

Good luck!

Gregg

I am in southern California and that is all I'm going to tell you!! I actually think I have decided on the 16-valve 740. I drive an Acura now, which is a 24-valve (4/cylinder) and have had no problems since I change the timing belt every 60,000 miles. (All right, I pay someone else to do it!)

I like the increased power and the price is right (about $7300). I am going to have all the major maintenance done before I take it (new belts, fluid flushes, etc.) for about $500. The guy selling it is a private Volvo mechanic, so I'll let him do it. (I know that this is a bad idea normally, but I know this guy.)

Wish me luck! Hopefully, I'll be using the brickboard site as a happy owner very soon.

Shawn

Good for you shawn,

hope you have many years of enjoyment. Like I said before just make sure you stick to the recommened service intervals and you shouldn't have any problems (no matter what oil you use BTW I just use regular old quakerstate 10w30 in mine, works great:))

Scott

Shawn as an 11 year owner of 16-valve I suggest you use synthetic motor oil, since I changed to synthetic motor oil the flame trap does not get gummed up and the throttle body stays much cleaner.

The other reason to use synthetic is to reduce the load on the timing belt which is driving the 2 overhead cams. I feel the reduced friction under all conditions gives extra safety margin against belt wear and breakage.

There was no discernable wear at the last belt change, comparing it with the new one. Also make sure the tension idler is dead smooth, mine needed(?) replacing at about 300,000 kms. It was just barely less than smooth, but it was apart for timing belt so it was replaced as well as the seals. I get about 24 mpg USgal(odometer) with 6% oversize tires and M46 transmission. This is mixed hwy and town driving. On steady hwy 70+ mph 27mpg US. This is on regular gas.

Shawn as an 11 year owner of 16-valve I suggest you use synthetic motor oil, since I changed to synthetic motor oil the flame trap does not get gummed up.

The other reason to use synthetic is to reduce the load on the timing belt which is driving the 2 overhead cams. I feel the reduced friction under all conditions gives extra safety margin against belt wear and breakage.

There was no discernable wear at the last belt change, comparing it with the new one. Also make sure the tension idler is dead smooth, mine needed(?) replacing at about 300,000 kms. It was just barely less than smooth, but it was apart for timing belt so it was replaced as well as the seals.

Two maintenance issues to check out:

1. Some 940's have a small side-mounted distributor that is way easier to tend to than the rear-mounted one on (AFIK) all 740's.

2. The big Girling ABS front brakes on the 940 are tougher than the 740 brakes, but if the 740 has ABS it may have the Girlings. The rotors are very thick and the calipers are chunky-looking single piston affairs.

I think that Volvo tried to address some of the maintenance issues of the 740 when developing the 940, but the cars are very similar.

Our 1994 940 wagon has just turned 162,000 km (100,000 miles) and has been very good. Apart from the usual tires, brake pads, and exhaust, I have needed to tend to sticky front brake caliper pins and get the front ball joints changed, and will soon do some front bushings and the rear shocks.

Brian

Does either car have a turbo engine? Which engine is in both cars? With the mileage on both vehicles, there are many maintainance issues at play. Are these cars being offered by a dealer or private owners? Can you get history on the cars? (ie: all maintaince records, any problems, etc) Looking up the high mileage maintianance issues in Steve Ringlee's FAQ will give you quite a bit of information on what to expect and what to check for both cars. I hope this points you in the right direction.

Neither car has a turbo and they are both 4 cylinders. I don't know specifically which type of engine is in each car. Does that make a difference? I can only get the maintenance history on the 740 (being sold through a Volvo mechanic selling used cars). The 940 is being sold through a dealer and comes with a 1 month/1000 mile warranty. I think I am starting to lean toward the 940, even though it is $2000 more expensive.

Why the engine type:

Here's the issue. If the B230F is being used, this can reduce your maintainance costs as apposed to the B234, the 16v engine. So, you do have a lot to consider: Are the amneties what I want? You are purchasing a car that already has what is considered "high mileage" so I am to assume you plan on keeping the car for a while. Therefore, you "have" to consider all of your high mileage cost issues. Unless, you choose not to. One such major consideration is the engine type.

Thanks for the info. I found out the older 740 has a B234F engine and the 940 has the B230FD engine. Wht do the F and FD designations mean? BTW - I found the Steve Ringlee FAQ section and it was extremely helpful. Thanks.

Shawn

I'm not sure what the "D" in B230FD is. The B234F, shares the same lower end as the B230F, however it's got 4 valves per cylinder, two cams rather than one, and a more complex timing belt system. The worst drawback with the B234F is that it is a piston/valve interference design, meaning that if the timing belt breaks and the cam stops turning, more than likely a piston will bend a valve. That equates to a very expensive fix. Not so on the B230F's. On those, if a timing belt breaks, that's all. Put on a new belt and motor on.

One additional note...even if the valves don't bend, anything related to the rebuild or replacement to this head will result in more $$$ as these factors relate specifically to the valves. In other words...it's a trade off if you choose the Volvo with the B234 as opposed to the B230F or FD or T, etc. Yes, you might notice some performance difference, but, there is a price to off set.

Having said that, if the price issue doesn't worry you too much, by all means, disreguard it. I'm not the advocate for either engine, I simply like to know all the information before I make an educated decision. It is quite possible that the B234 engine, in question, could last for another 80K miles without major incident. At an additional 80k miles, it's almost like getting a relatively brand new car. I hate to say it but, ask a bunch of people who like domestic vehicles if they would buy a car with 100K+ miles and expect to get an additional 80k miles out of it...and see what there reply is.

P.S. I'm not certain of the "D" designation either. I would guess that it implies some sort of upgrade to the B230F. However, I'm not privy to the specifics of that engine upgrade. I'm sure the engineers took a "solid" engine and found some way to improve on it. This sounds like a question for abe crombie or "protege".

just to let you know, if you make sure that you change the timing belt when specified you should really have no extra concerns over the b230 vs the b234, and there is a big difference in performance (160 hp vs 118 hp) though you mainly notice this at (slightly) higher revs. My 740 with the b234 has 350,000km (aprox 210,000 miles) and I have not had any problems with the engine, and am told it can go for at least another 150,000 km (90,000 miles) with out difficulty. it doesn't burn oil, and just passed an emmision check without problem. That being said I do think the belt replcement is more frequent with the 16 valve engine, and it does cost a little more, and you HAVE to make sure you replace it when scheduled, but it isn't as though this engine is the only interference design in the world, hondas, toyotas etc have been using them for years (and I believe the 850 engine is an interference design as well, though I am not sure). Anyway it is up to you, test drive them both, see if you like the exra power (if you don't notice it, then by all means go for the b230 engined model). And make sure the service history of the b234 is there for you to see, if it hasn't been maintained on schedule, don't buy it!.

Scott M

1989 740 GLE 16 valve 350,000 km