Hey guys,

Ok my 82 244 with a manual has just started to decide that it doesn't like going into first or second and does a kinda grind when put into reverse. Any ideas of fixing this other then a new trans. Woudl that Amsoil 2000 gear oil do the trick?

Thanks

ER

/// Specific to your readjusting the cable. There are some cases of the cable being damaged by bad electrical grounds. The clutch cable carries current if the grounds fail. You would notice fraying or stiffness in the cable. This cable should not need readjustment after breakin.

The grinding while going into reverse means that the clutch is not being disengaged. If it is worn thin enough, or old enough, or has been severly over heated there may be clutch material broken off and stuck to adjoining clutch surface area. That would effectivly double the clutch plate thickness until the loose material wears out or falls out. Other things such as anti-chatter springs may break and fall into the clutch but my experience is that they jam the clutch.

First adjust the clutch. Properly adjusted, you should have about 1/8" free play at the fork. To test clutch, drive car at about 40 mph in 4th gear. push in the clutch, rev the engine and release the clutch pedal sharply. If it engages instantly, the clutch should be ok. If it engages gradually, its slipping and time for replacement. Another cause of grinding is clutch disc binding on trans input shaft. If this is the case, adjustment won't help and the trans will have to come out.

The clutch cable may need adjusting. Does the clutch engage when the pedal is almost at the floor?

I replaced the cable over the summer and I believe I adjusted it correctly. It engages before it hits the floor.

Thanks

ER

The clutch should engage when the pedal is near the top. If it doesn't, adjust the cable so that it does. If it grinds when going into reverse, and is hard to shift into first then the clutch is not fully engaged. I had the problem on my '87 240, and having the cable correctly adjusted solved it. You may also have some kind of problem with the clutch itself, but I wouldn't know what to suggest. Once you fix the problem, AMSOIL synthetic gear oil will make shifting a lot smoother. Also, turn off the engine before shifting into reverse to prevent grinding.

Good luck.

Well when i first put the cable in it felt like a race car or something. THe clutch was really tight and was pretty cool. I think the cable may have stretched so I will tighten it up again this weekend. Or at least see if it needs it.

Thanks

ER

How old is your clutch?

probably as old as the car. I know I haven't had it done but I've only had the car for 50k of its 230k life.

If the clutch was going wouldn't it grind in all gears?

ER

Well if the clutch was gone it would grind in all gears but if the clutch

is very old like you describe the pilot bearing has probably dried up and

died and it causes the symptoms you describe. Grinding into first and reverse, but shifting into the other gears as you drive are fine. Of course, you must take apart the clutch just to get to the pilot bearing

so you should at least do the clutch disk and throw out bearing while you

are in there. At the price of a whole clutch kit its probably worth doing

the whole job. Make sure you grease the spines that the disk slides on

and lightly grease the throw out bearing guide tube. This will give you

a clutch that works like butter.

Dave 82 242ti 242kmi

I don't really see myself being able to change the clutch. Doesn't that require me removing the transmission?

Thanks

ER

Yeah, you must remove the tranny. The shops in my area usually charge

about $300 for the labor for this job. Southern NJ.

Dave 82 242ti 242kmi

yep. also the skin from your knuckles and probably forehead.