Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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transmission fluid change 200 1990

Hello,

I am planning on do a transmission fluid change within the next 2 weeks. I pretty much read and understood the haynes manual on doing this job, but I would like to hear comments from those who have done it, so I can prepare myself. Sounds cheap !!, but what the hell. Can't hurt to ask.

The only thing i still have yet to figure out is what type of transmission fluid to use .. does not say in my owners manual. I figured I would just buy from Borton Volvo if I tell them my model (1990-240, automatic).

One mecahnic gave me a hint. He said the transmission pans are made of tin, and at the places where the bolts go, there are indentations , which I should flatten out with a wooden block & hammer just to ensure a pure flat surface. Do you guys do this to prevent leaks? Also I am not sure if the Volvo transmission pans are made of tin ?? or steel.

Thanks

zakir








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Re: transmission fluid change 200 1989

You don't have to drop the transmission pan to change the fluid, there is no filter to change just a fine mesh screen and there is this nice drain plug…








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Re: transmission fluid change 200 1989

Joe, If you don't drop the pan, you can't change the screen or the two gaskets that come with the filter kit.Also you get a lot more fluid out if you lower the pan and disconnect the filler pipe.

I just did this last month.

Phil Stone








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Re: transmission fluid change 200 1989

Volvo used to have you drop the pan as part of the 30K mile service, but they have changed this to only drain the trans via the drain plug. I did the first three services (30k,60K & 90K) by dropping the pan and found no particles on the screen and only a light film in the bottom of the pan. Since the I have only followed the Volvo recommended method and only drain the trans by the way of the drain plug.








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Re: transmission fluid change 200 1990

I prefer a synthetic atf, amsoil, but you can also use mobil-1.

Yes, the pans are made of a coated steel, not tin (not Sn).

You can flatten out the dents where the bolts go, but there's no guarantee the bolts you put back won't put the dents right back...proper torquing of the fasteners is a better solution (I prefer to use a little bit of blue loctite on each fastener too...they DON'T loosen!).








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