I've had my 1980 245 (150,000 mi, previous owners had it for 5 years) for one week now, and it's already giving me plenty of trouble:

First, all the electrical cut out with no warning while I was on the freeway (60mph, lights & fan on, O/D engaged). When I pulled over and switched off the accessories, I didn't even get a click from the starter. 30 min. later, however, the car started, drove about 100 yards to the exit, and then cut out and wouldn't start again (this time, though, normal dead-battery symptoms -- weak headlights, solenoid clicking).

I had it towed to a nearby shop, which had never seen the car before. They tightened the alternator belt, cleaned the battery terminals, and told me that although the battery might need to be replaced, everything else electrical was "good" . . . just what I was afraid of!

After 10 or 15 miles, the battery ran down again. With a jump, the engine started but idled very roughly (because low voltage?) -- this has improved somewhat with a new battery. Now, however, the heater fan (I think it had been recently replaced) doesn't run, and I've noticed that the rocker switch for the hazards glows bright red sometimes, whether it's ON or OFF.

Although I have been able to drive the car, the new battery's discharging, too (wipers slow, etc.) The Alt light isn't working, so that's no help. The fuses are all good, fuel pump is quiet, OD still works, so I doubt it's a relay problem(?) like the other dead-on-highway scenarios.

Not being a mechanic, my only choice is to take it in again (and buy myself a multi-meter!) But I wonder what in particular could have caused 1) the all-at-once cut-out (which hasn't happened since) and 2) the intermittent charging, despite the apparently-good alternator -- and I assume they tested it at the battery leads, too.

Could the behind-the-dash malfunctions (heater fan, haz. switch) be a loose ground or something . . . ? If the shop doesn't find anything, where do I start? I do have a Haynes manual, but that's about it.

Any ideas much appreciated.

Tim, I think a volt meter investment is in order. I would fully charge the battery put the meter on it and see if it slowly trickles down. If it does, you deinitely have ashort to ground.

Having everything shut down like that is flaky unless the battery was so low that the injectors, fuel pump and everything else couldn't function.

The new battery may be saving you now because it is so new but if you have a slight short , this will continue to happen.

Tim , I agree with Rene , and both my wagons needed brushes replaced,87 120k almost shot,90 107k a little left. I had no problems but i replaced both one with a new bosch unit $41. and the other used with new brushes,$5. but iwill replace very soon. Check the voltage regulator, and the brushes, then move on. Bob

Bob, who sells th Brush?regulator sets for the alternator?? Is that dealer only? I don't recall seeing them in the IPD catalog.

With 186k on the odometer it appears, by your history, that I am on borrowed time.

Along with everything that was mentioned, I would check the alternator brushes, which is a combined unit with the voltage regulator on the back of the alternator. If they are very short, replace the whole unit or replace just the brushes (more involved). clean all the wire contacts on the alternator too. I had all kinds of whacked-out starting and dash-light problems because of that.

Rene

Tim,

You may need to fix/replace the warning light for the alternator/charging system. On our '83s, the alternator won't charge the system if the light is burned out or missing. All of the comments regarding bad wiring harnesses also apply, but try the light first.

Good Luck

Steve A-

Tim,

You don't have to be a dealer, shop or rocket scientist to tract this problem. I would start at the batery and check all of the conections. Then move along each wire you see. Check any loose conections and wires. Let the previous owner work for you. Look for any place on wires that have electrical tape. When you find these places, trace the wire back to the source. Replace it if necessary. Be sure to check the wires comming to the alternator. Also, be sure that you don't have a broken enging grounding strap.

Without looking at the car, or being there, it is imposible to make a good diagnosis, but I think you have a bad ground. In this model there is a strip on one of the fenders under the hood with a bunch of relays and grounds pluged into it. Check to make sure this is grounded without any corrosion. Buying the multimeter is a good idea you will need one.

Good Luck.

Thanks

Peter

Sounds like it could be a wiring harness. Those tend to deteriorate over time. They can cause really strange intermitent problems that are hard to trace. Good luck

Check your wiring harness, and the associated ground connections. Also check the fuel pump relay for soldering problems. The 700/900 FAQ has some good info, although the relay location is not the same as a 2xx. Your Haynes manual could shed more light on the location, however.

Thanks all for the wiring harness and alternator brush kit / dash light / ground info. Now I'm convinced to check things out some more myself before paying the shop to do it. At the rate things are going, though, it'll have to wait until the weekend...