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Randy --
Yep, BTDT to daughter's (now my) '86 245. It happened to her late one frigid Sunday night in January, 4 years ago, on the Mass Pike (and I paid the price).
Fortunately, I had a spare plug.
Replacing is easier with things warm (particularly for your fingers). You can position the new plug in the hole and press it in using various pry bars and big screwdrivers by levering aganist the firewall. Even though the 1" clearance means you must work by feel, it also means you have something to bear the prybars against.
When I installed mine, I used a bit of Permatex aircraft goo. But ordinarily, no gasket material is needed.
This usually results from excess crankcase pressure. Over time, the crankcase pressure "urges" the plug out, a micron at a time. After replacing the plug, go thoroughly through the flame trap, oil separator, and all plumbing (particularly the small vacuum hose and fitting).
You might also see seepage from the engine seals. The cam seal will allow oil to drip over the water pump top O-ring (aka "mushroom seal"), which will swell, soften, and split in time. Then you'll have a coolant leak, and be looking at a new water pump. So you might replace the three front seals, water pump, tensioner, and timing belt in one marathon service session.
Consider adding a retaining strap, as shown below. You can fabricate one from a scrape of aluminum flat stock. You can also buy one from IPD.
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
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