If I remove the flexible brake line on the right front, will I have to bleed the whole system or can I just bleed that wheel?. Any information to prevent bleed the whole system would be greatly appreciated.

/// If I am not too late, it sometimes helps to bleed at the joint you removed. In other words use the connection farther away from the master cylinder to allow air to escape. The purpose of bleeding is, of course to remove air from the line. Air is compressable but not liquids.

After allowing gravity to drip fluid from that joint have someone pump the brakes and open the joint again just as if it were a bleed screw on the caliper. If the pedal becomes firm no further bleeding is necessary.

Be sure you use a good grade of DOT 4 fluid. Castrol GT LMA is recommended.

Larry -- You should be able to get the air out by just bleeding that one wheel...See how it goes and be prepared to do the rest of them if the pedal is still soft.

If it's been more than a few years since the system was flushed, it would be worthwhile to bleed all of them out. The best thing I have seen is the little pressure bleeder setup that ipd sells for about $30. Seems kind of pricey for what it is, but it paid for itself in convenience the first time I used it. I flushed two of mine out last year...first with alcohol...then with air...then new fluid. Both cars have so much better brake response now.

Keith

I meant to say 240 and not 140-160. Sorry about that.

Here's what I would do.

1. Make sure your reservoir is full.

2. Remove the brake pads and put in either a VERY WORN pair

or a pair of backing plates with the lining removed. (affected wheel only)

3. Apply the brake gently.

4. Recheck to make sure there is plenty brake fluid in the

reservoir.

5. Put the line on and allow it to drip a bit before tightening

it. If you can fill it with fluid first (messy) it would be

better.

6. After tightening everything, push the pistons back into

the caliper (maybe have someone watch for reservoir overilling)

and put the good pads back in it. You may get a few bubbles

up into the reservoir.

7. Start the engine (to work the booster) and try the brakes.

If they are good and hard you don't have to bleed.

If not, try just bleeding that wheel. If it works, fine.

If not, back to zero. Using a pressure bleeder makes it a

LOT easier, BTW.